Our van is same spec and factory original was a Varta 76Ah. I have recently changed it and fitted a Bosch S5 A11 AGM CAR BATTERY 12V 80Ah.

it will need coding to the vehicle as explained elsewhere.
 
Thanks, I never understood why there stop start did not function correctly, so hopefully this is the reason too.
 
Hi, for a 2016 T^ 140BHP 4motion what batter and AH would you recommend please, currently its

Hi, for a 2016 T^ 140BHP 4motion what batter and AH would you recommend please, currently its 60A/h but I have a feeling that this was not the original battery?

Thanking you all in advance.
Exide EK950 is what I've just fitted to my T6, fits in fine and was no problem even with the additional cables for hook up etc.
Ebay was the cheapest for that. I wasn't too bothered about the 5yr warranty as I probably wont keep it that long so 3yrs was fine for me.
Linky

May be cheaper elsewhere but at the time was cheaper and good deal. Shop about and see what you can find.
 
The limit is the physical size of the battery, and how much you want to spend/ how long a guarantee you want / how much capacity you feel you need.
The 019 battery size is the largest that will fit in the T6 without modification to the battery tray and surrounding area.
 
Just fitted the exide 95 to my van. Using obdeleven to code it in. Managed to change the battery replacement to the correct value.
However I am unable to find the location on obdeleven to change the battery to agm.
I have looked through Elduderino's guide on page 5 of this thread which has been a great help so far. However that guide tells me go back to battery regulation and choose long coding to change the battery type. When I do that my long coding page looks nothing like his.
I have ebdeleven pro on android.
Below are screenshots of my battery value and battery long coding page.
Any help in locating the correct page for battery type, on ebdeleven greatly appreciated.

Screenshot_20220125-110413_OBDeleven.jpg

Screenshot_20220125-110437_OBDeleven.jpg
 
Battery type is in Module 61-Battery Regul. Coding bits 4-7 in byte 2 from 70 EFB to 10 AGM. (See first page of this thread) However if your old battery was AGM and the new one is AGM then there's no need to change anything
 
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Battery type is in Module 61-Battery Regul. Coding bits 4-7 in byte 2 from 70 EFB to 10 AGM. (See first page of this thread) However if your old battery was AGM and the new one is AGM then there's no need to change anything
Thanks once again I have managed to get to it with your help. Thank you for the fast response.
 
You should be able to get it replaced for a varta under warranty.

But if you change it your self you can add the new battery via VCDS in the energy management module.

Make, model serial, capacity.

And do basic settings to relearn all stored settings.
Hello, do I take it that if you replace the battery with one of an identical specification then you won't need to re-code the vehicle? Also when changing the battery, will disconnecting the old one (with the key not in the ignition) will this do anything to any of the electronics?
Regards
Stephen
 
Sorry for late reply @pikeman2210 , just caught up with this thread.
If you are still having issues, you could do the drain tests yourself if you have a decent multimeter.
Watch a few of Ivan’s videos on you tube (pine hollow auto diagnostics) one of his most recent vids showed a 7 hour epic drain trace that found an rf module faulty on a lincoln (ford).
You can use the same methodology to do it yourself, just be aware of how to use the meter for current and voltage measurements and don’t overload the meter when its connected in series on current tests by turning the van on or switching any high drain items on.
Hello, thankyou for getting back. No need to apologise. I don't check in on here very often so didn't see your response for a while. My issue is with VW's inconsideration, competence and thought processes Vehicle is being used regularly at moment so battery not much of an issue just yet. Once it gets warmer I'll did out my multimeter. Regards Stephen
 
You can just replace like for like and not do anything else but any 'learning' that the ECU has done whilst the old battery was in use (capacity drop over time etc) will take some time to be 'un-learnt' as it were. just a lot easier to reset everything and it can start afresh with the new battery and its expected characteristics.
This is the reason for the serial number being recorded, a like for like change wouldn't change any of the other parameters (capacity/manufacturer/type) but the different serial number tells the ECU that a new battery has been fitted and that's how it knows to reset to initial charging and usage profiles.
You may lose things like window auto close by disconnecting the battery but nothing that can't be relearnt/reprogrammed without the use of VCDS/Carista/OBD11.
 
You can just replace like for like and not do anything else but any 'learning' that the ECU has done whilst the old battery was in use (capacity drop over time etc) will take some time to be 'un-learnt' as it were. just a lot easier to reset everything and it can start afresh with the new battery and its expected characteristics.
This is the reason for the serial number being recorded, a like for like change wouldn't change any of the other parameters (capacity/manufacturer/type) but the different serial number tells the ECU that a new battery has been fitted and that's how it knows to reset to initial charging and usage profiles.
You may lose things like window auto close by disconnecting the battery but nothing that can't be relearnt/reprogrammed without the use of VCDS/Carista/OBD11.
Thanks.
 
VCDS Battery Replacement. - following on from above.

here is some additional info.

VCDS --> module 61

1647000977430.png

Click Adv Meas Values . . .

select the data blocks you want to see . .

here is my van 2018 year with a VARTA 75Ah factory battery.

just sitting on IGN, engine not running.

The ECU has this data stored:

yellow - battery size @ 75Ah
green - battery SOH - 60%
blue - battery SOC - 63%
orange - battery voltage - 11.94v
ppl - battery current IN/OUT - -11.8 discharging as engine not running.


1647001337204.png

now with engine running.

we can see the battery taking in an initial 36.3A current from the alternator.


1647001398935.png

...


this is the 4year old VARTA AGM 75Ah,

1647001485758.png


in VCDS you can see in the (61) long coding the battery type is set to AGM

1647001602124.png

and that VCDS advise "battery Replacement" is via Adaption chNL 004.

1647001664006.png


In Long Adaption . . . you can choose from the dropdown list or go direct to Chnl004

1647001763574.png


the pop-up shows the common settings and format.

EG - VARTA = VA0 / MOLL = MLA


1647001791432.png



this is my factory coding . .

075 JCB 1111111111

which is a 75Ah VARTA Sno-1111111111

1647001883975.png



Thats my Van . . .

Now moving over to a fellow T6F members van, thats getting a new battery . . .

we van see the setting adaption of 080 VA0 1111111111 ( 80Ah VARTA Sn-1111111111)

1647002225184.png


we can now what effect this has had on the internal battery parameters . .

looking at the advanced measure blocks . . .

we see:

yellow - new battery size - 80Ah
green - SOH - reset to 100%
blue - SOC - reset to 100%


1647002368105.png






.
 
Hi All
Went out to the van last night to check I had loaded up the music SD card OK, only to see a message straight after I turn the head unit on saying 'media shutting down due to low voltage', or to that effect.
PANIC!!!!! I'm driving to the French Alps next week.....

Checked the voltage of the battery, and it's 11.5v. With old style batteries, that is dead. However, I'm not knowledgeable with AGM's.
So read this with interest, but it hasn't answered my question.
Should I be worried? Sure, I can order a new battery tomorrow (3 day delivery) and code it in at the weekend, but do I need to? Am I flapping unnecessarily?

Tomorrow I'm off to work, so I'm going to take it for a drive on way in, measure voltage with engine on, turn it off and measure V, then measure it after a few hours to see what the drop is. I can get the results, but I really don't know what good or bad looks like. Anything else I should be doing? I have a reasonably good Fluke multimeter.
Any pointers much appreciated.

Its a T6 Shuttle 2019 without any leisure batteries fitted. Still has the 75Ah original Varta. Nothing running when engine off other than van alarm. I usually unplug Carista too. I haven't driven it for a week, but have been in and out of it a few times.
Many Thanks
 
Have you got a norco or similar booster/starter pack? If so then unessary panic.
If not then the battery might recover if you put it through a maintenance cycle with a decent charger.
It does sound like the dreaded 3yr battery fault though as who knows how old the battery actually is, could be 2018? So a replacement may be on the cards soon.
 
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