Toddy's Crafter Build

ToddiesT6

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The T6 was an awesome projects that's got me back in love with van life, but all to quickly I've come to realise that space & height will forever be a challenge! But the solution??? ....well do it all over again!

So that's exactly what I'm doing with this 2023, 8 speed DSG MWB. Another Iridium grey van & not that much bigger that the T6 length wise, but height - now that's a full 40cm extra & room to stand up from the get go!

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Thanks' to "restructuring" at work & a slow market place, I've still got the T6 to enjoy during festival season, but more importantly free time to crack on with new build!

As with every build, it starts with dismantling 'what others have done before' - but since this is a new van, its really just ply lining & the bulkhead via torx & pozy drive bits.

1 hr as she's an empty canvas, ready for the initial layout mapping upon the floor.

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Another day, another delivery & this time its in with the TVW windows. A few lessons learnt from before - So don't struggle with a jigsaw & daisy chained holes, but rather buy yourself an air (or if your pocket allows electric) nibble!

The basics steps:
  1. Open the drivers/passenger side window!
  2. Slot through the internal structure of the window to be fitted with a 1mm angle grinder slitting disk.
  3. Peal out that structure, having first cut through the adhesive sticking it to the outside panel with a vibrosaw/blade (if you just pry them you buckle the skins)
  4. Deburr the edges.
  5. Pilot hole opposite corners of the outer panel to be removed with a step drill - stay 25mm away from the edge.
  6. Nibble around boundary using inner skin edge as a guide (gives around 5mm instep) but leave a little tang until ready for final removal.
  7. Drop out the cut out piece.
  8. Deburr the edges.
  9. Clean the paintwork with IPA
  10. Treat all edges with primer & allow to dry.
  11. Knock on the seal to cover the raw edge, be sure to get it the correct way!
  12. Meanwhile, check your glass for damage?
  13. Stick tape to van & offer up window - go inside & with a pencil mark up the boundary.......Maybe get someone to hold your window when you do this :)
  14. Clean the glass, then apply primer to glass outside & up until the pencil mark.
  15. Apply primer to the van paintwork....allow to flash off per instructions.
  16. Having warmed the adhesive (if helps flow) build up the profile per instructions around the window boundary - where its a big glass panel you might want extra runs to support? But just don't create any closed pocket whatever you do!
  17. Place the window(s) in position & consolidate the adhesive - work around the bead in a clockwise (or anti manor) - then check for alignment.
  18. Adjust if needed - then add NON stretch tape.
BE CAREFUL - it might be stuck after 1hr, but 24hrs is recommended to fully cure....if you lock the van & didn't leave a window open (Step#1) you might blow the new window out!

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Love or hate steels, for me & the crafter its another thing to change - So a trip to Rogue Alloys to address that aesthetic.
Incidentally the old ones went on Market Place & sold for £400 within a few week despite the usual forum comments.

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DoDo Deadmat, 7mm closed cell, 100mm fleece, thermo liner & reflective water membrane was next up - It isn't a hard job, an expensive job or challenging to do, but it does take time!

Just wear gloves, Kevlar gauntlets (if you have them) & take your time as its well spent (from my viewpoint) when you think about future nights without the diesel heater needing to run & run!

Incidentally, you will need to have planned (and installed) your wiring before this point.....else you'll just have to peal stuff back (as did I in some area's)

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Time to add the EHU port & water inlets -unlike the T6 I'm not hiding these - So its the OSR panel for both - just watch out for those rear door guide rails!

As before its a job for the nibbler!

  1. Build template of inlet - (Use the foam gasket supplied)
  2. protect your paint with tape.
  3. Mark up & check inside! You don't want to drag out fleece, cut wires of find a reinforement.....so measure twice as this you don't want to get wrong!

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More security added in the form of Hook locks from VanLok. The units are decent enough quality, but I have to say the instructions provided aren't great!

As your cutting panels & the chassis you actually might wanna pay for the installer (who should have insurance) to do it as its not a nice feeling 'hoping' your engineering skills are correct & you have the dimensions - like most jobs you do it a few times and its no biggee, but i expect most people wouldnt want the stress.

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MaxxFan next up, but the roof ribs make fitment a problem. Some smeg the hell out of it or you can buy a spacer (£70 on ebay) but when you have your own engineering setup, just model it up & 3D print it yourself.

Fitment isn't so different to windows, bar a few details:-

  1. Measure twice
  2. Mask up.
  3. Pilot hole corners
  4. nibble out.
  5. deburr
  6. paint edges
  7. fit spacer
  8. fit Maxxfan cowl.
  9. Square up & mark 2 opposite corners.
  10. Remove all & drill 2 holes.
  11. Refit & temp secure in position.
  12. Drill through remaining holes.
  13. Remove & rust treat open metal.
  14. IPA clean paint.
  15. 1st bead of Sika down, then spacer, then Sika & finally the cowling.
  16. Screw (Stainless) down & clean up excess Sika (IPA)
  17. PULL captive nuts up 3mm (they are knocked down in shipping & just pop up)
  18. place fan in position & secure via 3 c'snk side screws.

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4 way stretch next as whilst a lot of crafters get solid walls, I prefer the noise suppression of carpet & two tone infill panels - so that's what I'm doing.

Also, as I'm going to be fitting carbon sidepod/flares (when I finish designed them) the rear quarter panels are just covered for now before the IKEA SKOVA bed brackets are installed. As before my trusted Rivnut tool makes an appearance as who uses Tec-screws for these!!

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Next up its the floor with Altro Contrax.

Its simple to template using previously remove floor outside the van & just be sure to and a spacer to the pen nib to give yourself some overrun or say +5 or +10mm.

Also, I'm using the existing tie down points ( so they get cut out & refitted) - hence being marked up......The exception is the 2 off foremost ones which were not fitted as the floor got patched with 9mm ply & marker cleaned away.

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Now I've seen many an electrical install where the trend to hide all wires behind glossy panel has been applied & whilst I do appreciate the aesthetics, I also wonder about heat-soak & maintenance. So I've been as tidy as I can with the routing before leaving my own on display. Love it or hate it, the main electrical install is done!

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Next up its the Truma D4E as we want a decent heater in the Crafter with hot water for the external shower point & kitchen sink. I've not seen many others fit these to 4 berth MWB's, but MoHo owners seam to rave about them. This one sits atop a wooden platform that houses the internal water tank.

2x ducts will run down the drivers side & exit midway along the bench seat. 1x will cross over to the passenger side & exit under the kitchen. The remaining 1x will keep the garage warm.

Finally the rear bed (Skorva) beam gets installed to hold the bed back board, a rear shelf for the shower & some future optics - Cheers!

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Now I've seen many an electrical install where the trend to hide all wires behind glossy panel has been applied & whilst I do appreciate the aesthetics, I also wonder about heat-soak & maintenance. So I've been as tidy as I can with the routing before leaving my own on display. Love it or hate it, the main electrical install is done!

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Being a sparky myself i agree, its much easier to see where the smoke is coming from when its all on show :think smile bounce:
 
The T6 was an awesome projects that's got me back in love with van life, but all to quickly I've come to realise that space & height will forever be a challenge! But the solution??? ....well do it all over again!

So that's exactly what I'm doing with this 2023, 8 speed DSG MWB. Another Iridium grey van & not that much bigger that the T6 length wise, but height - now that's a full 40cm extra & room to stand up from the get go!

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How is I3 going?
 
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