Renogy 200W Flexi-Panel Install
- Thread starter J19WMK
- Start date
J19WMK
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Yeah, the cables are quite short, and there would be less contact between the panel and the Van roof if it was in the middle, just because of the width of the ridges.
The original poster has not been on the forum since Jan 2024.
Is it one of these you are going to risk your life for John?
@Drive Wayne Yes Wayne I’ve hired hard hat, hi viz jacket and trousers, scaffolding, and safety harness is there anything I’ve forgotten?
Oh yes and leg braces.
More than happy to give you a hand, you're not far away...
I will reassuringly shake the steps while you're on them!
Looks about right as long as her PASMA and CSCS tickets are still valid.
As for the reliability of the Renogy flexy panels I've got two of their 175 watt panels and despite one becoming unstuck and nearly flying off the roof they're 2 1/2 yrs old and working fine although they never get to the suggested 350 watts and tend to top out at about 290 watts but that's nearly 20A into the leisure battery.
Thanks for that. That's reassuring to know. Just bought components for solar set up now.Looks about right as long as her PASMA and CSCS tickets are still valid.
As for the reliability of the Renogy flexy panels I've got two of their 175 watt panels and despite one becoming unstuck and nearly flying off the roof they're 2 1/2 yrs old and working fine although they never get to the suggested 350 watts and tend to top out at about 290 watts but that's nearly 20A into the leisure battery.
Think I missed the gist of things earlier but thanks for all the replies. Happy easter and Bank Hols weekend
I’ve got the same 200w panel and it’s been great for the year I’ve had it. I’ve seen just over 200w in summer sun. Attached to the poptop with Sikaflex on a piece of PPF just in case it ever needs replacing. I’ve ensured there is a 4-5mm gap below it to give a degree of airflow.
Have you a picture of the the rear cable @ginkster please.
Here you go. I used a Scanstrut glad, a fantastic piece of kit and worth every penny. Cables routed through the main cable gaiter too left of the tailgate. If I did it again I would probably route inside the tent or take the cables in down by the rear light.
I’ve got a 200W Renogy flexy PV panel that I’ll be fitting after I’ve finished installing a DC-DC charger and battery maintainer, so am interested to see how others are installing them.
My plan is to use a 10mm polycarbonate twinwall sheet between the PV panel and the roof. The PV panel will be attached to the twinwall with Sikaflex 522, and the twinwall will be stuck to the roof with 3M VHB tape. This will provide an air gap to keep the temperature of the PV panel at a reasonable level. As a safety precaution, the PV panel will be attached to the roof bars with two cords fastened to each of the PV panel’s front mounting eyes. According to my measurements, this arrangement should not increase the actual clearance height of my van’s roof by more than 5mm.
My plan is to use a 10mm polycarbonate twinwall sheet between the PV panel and the roof. The PV panel will be attached to the twinwall with Sikaflex 522, and the twinwall will be stuck to the roof with 3M VHB tape. This will provide an air gap to keep the temperature of the PV panel at a reasonable level. As a safety precaution, the PV panel will be attached to the roof bars with two cords fastened to each of the PV panel’s front mounting eyes. According to my measurements, this arrangement should not increase the actual clearance height of my van’s roof by more than 5mm.
I fitted one of these a couple of years ago, and so far so good. My roof is a west dubs pop top so has ridges in it. As most people do I put a piece of vinyl wrap down first, then used sikaflex along the raised parts but in the gaps I put a row of plastic penny washers the same thickness as the height of the ridges, plenty of sikalfex, and put the panel on that. This means you still get an air gap but the panel is supported/stuck flat across a greater surface area than just the ridges. I saw the idea on a YouTube video that was linked on here somewhere, but can't find it now. I don't know if it makes a great deal of difference but seemed logical.
My panels are constantly trying to unstick themselves from the fibreglass pop top with that and water from rain and condensation sitting underneath it's an ongoing battle.
This mechanical problem has been much more of an issue than any potential reduced electrical output from heat.
Watching the panels output on the shunt display is quite revealing in as much as the sun's angle makes a marked difference in output between the sun at 8:00 AM currently with less than 50 Watts out and then at 10:00 AM with output over 150 Watts.
Peak is normally noon to early afternoon and approaching 300 Watts roof up but if you can't park at the right angle or pop top is down IE. normal van then you can be anywhere from sub 100 Watts upward, again heat lost in the variables.
This mechanical problem has been much more of an issue than any potential reduced electrical output from heat.
Watching the panels output on the shunt display is quite revealing in as much as the sun's angle makes a marked difference in output between the sun at 8:00 AM currently with less than 50 Watts out and then at 10:00 AM with output over 150 Watts.
Peak is normally noon to early afternoon and approaching 300 Watts roof up but if you can't park at the right angle or pop top is down IE. normal van then you can be anywhere from sub 100 Watts upward, again heat lost in the variables.
@Stay Frosty I am struggling to understand why you are having a constant battle to keep your panels from unsticking themselves, when every other post (that is about adhesion) is about the difficulty of getting them off and so people are using vinyl or PPF for this reason. Can you think of a reason?
