Yeah, that will work fine. LED's glowing is dependent on your lights rather than the wiring. Some do, some don't
LED Interior Cargo Lights - How I Done It.
- Thread starter Dellmassive
- Start date
looking for some advice as i've read through the thread and i'm still not sure what I have to do..!
basically, all i want to do is replace the courtesy lights that came with the van with 2 LEDs like for like, so that they come on when the door opens etc. Is there a simple plug and play setup? or am i missing something?
i'll have another 4 LEDs in the ceiling but they'll be wired up to the leisure battery
cheers in advance
basically, all i want to do is replace the courtesy lights that came with the van with 2 LEDs like for like, so that they come on when the door opens etc. Is there a simple plug and play setup? or am i missing something?
i'll have another 4 LEDs in the ceiling but they'll be wired up to the leisure battery
cheers in advance
When I did my interior, I replaced all the standard rocker lights with leisure battery and new switch operated alternatives. I now wish I had read through all of this and it would be good to have them operated by the door as well as a switch to have them on all the time if camping etc.
I'm going to attempt the MOSFET solution.
In the diagram, is the 'PWM' on the left of the MOSFET, really from the leisure battery plus looped around to the other side? Just want to make sure I get this right and not cause fires :/
I'm going to attempt the MOSFET solution.
In the diagram, is the 'PWM' on the left of the MOSFET, really from the leisure battery plus looped around to the other side? Just want to make sure I get this right and not cause fires :/
Hi again Matty - sorry for the delay. Ye,s the wiring diagram is correct. The important thing is to make sure you buy a MOSFET module where the positive output and 12v supply positive are common and it's the negative side that is switched. The eBay hyperlink on the diagram will take you to one of the right type of MOSFET Switch. They generally have 'YYNMOS' written on the modules themselves. Good luck!
i know this is old, I've a 2019 t6 which has been converted but the back is pitch black and the light switched are on the opposite side from the door. im looking to try and reinstate the OEM lighting. Bar me ripping the whole roof out, do you know where the wiring comes up/were would be the best area to try and find the old wiring?
Can anyone confirm the functionality of the BCM switched -I've (brown/red)?
I only have a basic multimeter (can't do pwm) and when I measured the voltage between brown/red and earth at the overhead console it was 12.8v. (I had not opened the front doors, only opened the sliding door. The overhead console light was set to door switch and the light was off)
With the BCM +I've(red) at 12v in order to dim and turn off the lights does the brown/red goes from 0->12v?
I only have a basic multimeter (can't do pwm) and when I measured the voltage between brown/red and earth at the overhead console it was 12.8v. (I had not opened the front doors, only opened the sliding door. The overhead console light was set to door switch and the light was off)
With the BCM +I've(red) at 12v in order to dim and turn off the lights does the brown/red goes from 0->12v?
I have not checked it myself, but I thought the brown/red was providing a PWM 0V to the LED negative, and the LED positive was switched 12V. If you measured 12V on the brown/red, are you sure it wasn't via the LED?
So the LED positive (whatever colour it is) would be your signal. Does the esp32 accept 12V inputs? In the arduino I used, I had to use a potential divider to drop the 12V down to 5V.
Thanks for your reply.
When measuring the brown/red I measured against an earth point on the chassis. Double checked it later as I was surprised by the initial reading and thought I might have connected to the switched +I've by mistake.
Esp32 doesn't support 12v inputs. Luckily I have a few to play with...
I am outputting pwm -I've then through a mosfet and on to the -I've on the led light.
I will try the potential divider to restrict the voltage from the bcm input and see if that will provide an adequate switch input.
Maybe also consider a simple low pass filter to convert pwm to continuous analog? Pwm on esp input pin might be little tricky on software side
Low-Pass Filter a PWM Signal into an Analog Voltage - Technical Articles
In this article we will take a closer look at how to effectively low-pass filter a PWM signal into an analog voltage.
The potential divider did the trick. Lights are working from BCM, switch and app.
Only think to sort now is when the van locks it activates switched -I've which turns on the lights. I might feed switched +I've into the esp32 and assert on both switched inputs.
Only think to sort now is when the van locks it activates switched -I've which turns on the lights. I might feed switched +I've into the esp32 and assert on both switched inputs.
Do you have a more detailed drawing as to show +ve and -ve connections to LED Downlights?
I want to replace the 2 x factory lights (3 wire plugs) with 4 x spots for ceiling and 2 x spots in tailgate.
Id like individual switches, one for ceiling and the other for the tailgate, so to have the option for ON(Door/Lock) - OFF - ON.
No leisure battery!
@Dellmassive any advice would be appreciated
What detail do you want?
All the information is in the picture of my original post
Stupid question here, running a switch to the sliding door pillar so that the 6 led lights I am installing act like the normal lights (opening and closing) and to flick on when you switch the switch, is it a matter of just splicing into the light just behind the driver on the roof? Or do both roof lights need to be connected up? The original lights are 3 pin rocker type
They are all the same circuit. You can connect to either.
Oh nothing fancy like that just yet, just want them come on when you open the door , go off when you lock up like the originals do and be able turn them on with a switch (obviously not leave them on to kill the starting battery )
Excellent info
meza
Member
I've got no courtesy interior lights in the rear of my T5.1 conversion (with pop top). Need to do something about the darkness when I open the side door!
Ideally I'll use the mosfet solution to control the LED strips above the side door, which are currently switched from a control panel near the back.
But - I'm having trouble locating the factory light feeds.
I've checked the C pillar but can't find any wires in there. I can't access above the door as the long trim for the poptop frame containing the LED strip is fixed on top.
Where else can I go - B pillar? I read that the wires come from behind the glovebox.
Once I've found the feed, am I going to need to run it all the way to the back to the control panel? I'd like to install the 3-way switch in the B pillar like many others have done.
(Also, I'd like to fit a side-step with a light - assuming that is just another courtesy light, so I can drop a pair of wires down the B pillar and under the step?)
Thanks all
Ideally I'll use the mosfet solution to control the LED strips above the side door, which are currently switched from a control panel near the back.
But - I'm having trouble locating the factory light feeds.
I've checked the C pillar but can't find any wires in there. I can't access above the door as the long trim for the poptop frame containing the LED strip is fixed on top.
Where else can I go - B pillar? I read that the wires come from behind the glovebox.
Once I've found the feed, am I going to need to run it all the way to the back to the control panel? I'd like to install the 3-way switch in the B pillar like many others have done.
(Also, I'd like to fit a side-step with a light - assuming that is just another courtesy light, so I can drop a pair of wires down the B pillar and under the step?)
Thanks all
