Jacking points, trolley jacks and axle stands

Jimbob76

Swiss Army Van
VIP Member
T6 Guru
I’ve lifted cars on trolley jacks at home before, and I’ve been very happy doing so as it’s been obvious where the jacking points are, and cars aren’t that heavy. But before I set about getting my van up in the air, I’d like to ask the knowledgeable folk on here how they go about this. I’ve trawled the forum ‘library’ and there doesn’t seem to be a definitive ‘here’s how I done it’, importantly with clear pictures. So let’s create one. If I can get some good advice, I’ll happily photo and post the process on this thread once I’m comfortable going about it. I have some ‘kit’, just not sure if it will cut the mustard for the van vs the old S3.

Disclaimer: Any advice in this thread, given or received is down to the person lifting their own vehicle to take responsibility for! Just wanted to say that to make folks feel comfortable sharing what they do, without any possible kick-back. Be honest. Share ‘owt sketchy about your process and let’s document what we all do :thumbsup:

Questions are:
1: What are people using as jacking points for a trolley jack (front and rear) and are there any differences between the T6 and the 6.1? I’ve added a couple of pics below for where I think would make good solid jacking points but I want to check, as a van is a wee bit heavier than a car! Safety first and all that. For context, I have sidebars on mine, but then loads on here do as well, so post what you do - and photo’s paint a thousand words!

2. What trolley jacks are people using? I have Clarke 2.5 tonne low profile jack, which was ample for the old S3, but is this enough to lift the van? Context - the purpose of lifting the van is simply to take wheels off, deep clean ‘em/ceramic coat ‘em, swap out the centre caps from my aftermarket wheels for some VW ones, paint my callipers at some point. I’m not going to be crawling around under the van but want to make sure once it’s lifted, it doesn’t drop onto its knees.

3. Axle stands. I have 2 tonne SGS stands. I’ll only lift one corner at a time - where do folks position axle stands (front and rear)? Are 2 tonne stands enough for lifting one corner at a time?

4. What are people using as the ‘buffer’ between their trolley jack and the vehicle? I have a grooved hard plastic ‘hockey puck’ but are others using wooden chocks, or some kind of homemade resin thing?

Pictures:

The old S3 comfortably up in the air, no stress, showing my Clarke 2.5 tonne low profile trolley jack, and axle stand placements (these are the kind of photos I’m looking for!)…

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Is this the right jacking post for the front of the van?

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Is this the right jacking post for the rear of the van?…

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Thanks folks, and pictures please! :thumbsup:
 
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There are a few posts on here but the info is had to find. From what I found on here and on other sites I jacked mine up (bottle jack) using the front jacking point and put the axle stands (2 tonne) under the tubular parts of the front subframe that are quite obvious when you look to the rear of the engine.
I’ve seen online vids where people put a large block of wood across those tubular parts and jack in the centre of there using a trolly jack, then put the axle stands under the jacking points.

I found the rear difficult and used the bottle jack only. I placed an axle stand under the rear subframe just in case of disaster. Was only painting the calipers on the rear so no personal danger.
 
I’ve tried several hockey-puck style pads between my trolley jack and the vans official jacking points, and they have all split. I currently use the rubber pad that came with my SGS jack, which seems to be holding up OK. When changing wheels (summer to winter or vice versa) I only use the jack with no axle stands. When I need to put my body under the van, I lower the van onto axle stands (with a wood block on top) positioned under suspension mounts or the front subframe.
 
Yes, those circled in red are the correct jacking points.
Lifting each corner of the van one at a time will not exceed the 2.5t and 2t of your equipment - even if you did front and rear on one side at the same time or front front and rear rear.
 
About T6.1,
When you want to lift both front left and right tires at the same time for an oil change, do the floor jacking points match the locations circled in red? If my understanding is different, please let me know where it is. I borrowed the photo from the HP of GAKUYA, a VW pro shop in Japan.

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I asked this a couple of days ago. Lifting a van, at the rear, the video showed the jack under the rear wishbone, and axle stands placed under the jacking points. I can't advise for the front.
I have a diesel heater I need to install before winter
 
I asked this a couple of days ago. Lifting a van, at the rear, the video showed the jack under the rear wishbone, and axle stands placed under the jacking points. I can't advise for the front.
I have a diesel heater I need to install before winter
I can figure out the rear lift by finding the threads, but I'm not sure about the front.
If anyone knows, please let me know.
I hope you were able to successfully install the diesel heater. Please tell me more.
 
Are you lowered at all? I ask as I installed my heater before it was lowered. I did the installation on my drive and used a trolly jack on the lifting points. I then put some timber blocks under the wheels and a couple of axel stands in suitable places. They key point is that on a non lowered van you don’t need much height from jacking as I found there was plenty of room under the van. The timber blocks and axel stands were mainly for safety but leaving the wheels on provides a lot of safety anyway.
 
I just use a pair of heavy duty ramps - no messing about with balancing the van on jacks/axle stands/orange boxes etc. Far safer. I bought the ramps with hydraulic lifts combined in the top of the ramps but have never needed the extra lift that they provide. If I can get under with my arthritic body I am sure the younger fitter members would have no problems.
Of course only good for the jobs like fitting heaters when you aren't taking the wheels off.
 
My Shuttle isn't lowered. I have been reading about it as some suggest the handling improves, but seriously I'm not at that stage.

I have yet to install my diesel heater. I had hoped a local handy man /mate would do it but he has been too busy the last 6 months.

I still need to buy rivnuts, as well as a way of lifting the van, but I just need a dry day to get under the van and figure it out.

Cheers, Dave C
 
Are you lowered at all? I ask as I installed my heater before it was lowered. I did the installation on my drive and used a trolly jack on the lifting points. I then put some timber blocks under the wheels and a couple of axel stands in suitable places. They key point is that on a non lowered van you don’t need much height from jacking as I found there was plenty of room under the van. The timber blocks and axel stands were mainly for safety but leaving the wheels on provides a lot of safety anyway.
Thanks for your reply.
My T6.1 is not lowered.
I wanted to jack it up because I wanted enough space for things like oil and element changes.
I've seen in other threads how to use the subframe as a trolley jack up point and an axcel stand as a regular jack up point, but I haven't been able to find the best answer.
 
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Thank you all for your help.
Using the points circled in red in the photo, I was able to jack up the floor without any problems.

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I just use a pair of heavy duty ramps - no messing about with balancing the van on jacks/axle stands/orange boxes etc. Far safer. I bought the ramps with hydraulic lifts combined in the top of the ramps but have never needed the extra lift that they provide. If I can get under with my arthritic body I am sure the younger fitter members would have no problems.
Of course only good for the jobs like fitting heaters when you aren't taking the wheels off.
So you have a link for these @oldiebut goodie ? I am intrigued as my van is parked on a hill hence these may make my life a whole lot easier?
 
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I dont rate SGS kit in general, they seem overpriced for not great quality

We have loads of their kit on one of our sites and all of it just seems a bit cheap and not sturdy in particular the lifting stuff and storage kit

I bought a new jack a few weeks back and had a good look around in the upto £200 and ended up with one of these for £140, really pleased with it

 
I dont rate SGS kit in general, they seem overpriced for not great quality

We have loads of their kit on one of our sites and all of it just seems a bit cheap and not sturdy in particular the lifting stuff and storage kit

I bought a new jack a few weeks back and had a good look around in the upto £200 and ended up with one of these for £140, really pleased with it

Cheers @Pauly will take a look.
 
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