Heater only working at maximum

Thanks for all the info' very useful, and I managed it, but dont forget the 5.5mm spanner.

This forum is brilliant for so much info
 
I can’t find this anywhere else on the forum. But for some reason I have a choice of nothing or full in (level 4) for my heaters fan.
Turn to level 1 = nothing and same with level 2 and 3. But level 4 is good and loud and works!
Any ideas anyone?
 
www.t6forum.com

Blower Resister - How To Get To It?

Hi Folks Newbie here, just got myself a 2016 T6 Kombi and I have noticed it's got the old blower only works on #4 issue, I know this has been done several times as I've done a search but the one thing I can't find the answer to is how do you get to it, I know it's behind the glove box somewhere...
www.t6forum.com www.t6forum.com

There's your problem.

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T5 T5.1 T6 Heater Blower Resistor 7E0959263C

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There's the solution.
 
So i turned on the heater this morning to defrost the van. heater camo on to number 4. nice and toastie.
i went to turn off the heater and it wont turn off.
so the knob seems to move around a lot but will not switch off.

any ideas.
and can i pull the fuse to turn off.

Thanks for your help.
 
Have you got the semi auto climate, full auto or mechanical controls?

Post a pic of your heater controls if you can?

I’m assuming it’s only running when the ignition is on though…?
 
I have a start line with no a/c
Mechanical i believe.

Yes only when ignition is on.
 
If the switch is rotating round more than it did/should then I assume a mechanical failure of the switch. Does it click into each detent for the speeds?

if you can’t turn it off with the switch, then it’d be the fuse to isolate until you can find the cause of the issue.
 
Last edited:
Depends on which system but the main 40A is behind the headlight light switch (between the light switch and steering column).
There are 2 40A fuses here, 1 is for the Heater and the other is for the power windows.
This is the LHD version but transpose it to the RHD.
1645172391003.png
 
I replaced my series resistor at 1500 miles and replaced it again yesterday at 47000 miles. I really should scope the motor to see if the inrush current is high compared to another motor as dragging bearings will cause too much current which could be causing the resistor to go open circuit. The wire winding simply burns out under the green Ceramic type material. Easy to replace, just need to drop the plastic lower left footwell trim (on RHD) and unscrew the two small bolts holding it in. I used a short socket with slim tiny ratchet. If you don’t have one small enough, a spanner will need to be used, but you will be there a while as bolts seem longer than they need to be.
 
Last edited:
It’s easy enough to replace the damaged thermal fuse if a heat sink (strip of lead) is used to protect the fuse from the soldering iron heat.
Costs pennies and takes a few minutes.
I agree with @Flyingspanner with current draw comparison, I would think that voltage would also need to be monitored due to fluctuation if a true power draw is to be compared.
 
Last edited:
That’s a result. My fan stopped working on lower settings. Van was in for service at Sheffield van centre under all in plan which we took out last year and it will be repaired under plan.
 
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