Blower Resister - How To Get To It?

Dundrummin

Member
Hi Folks
Newbie here, just got myself a 2016 T6 Kombi and I have noticed it's got the old blower only works on #4 issue, I know this has been done several times as I've done a search but the one thing I can't find the answer to is how do you get to it, I know it's behind the glove box somewhere but do I have to remove the whole panel or can you get the glove box itself to just drop down. Basically, what do I need to remove to get access to it?

Also, will it be the same as the one in all the threads on here (the T5 one) or is it a different part now?

and yes, it should say 'resistor', oops!
 
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Thanks Pete but I must have read that thread about 5 times now, watched the videos etc etc and the nearest I get is 'remove glove box' or 'remove black plastic cover under glove box' that doesn't give a lot away, not to me anyway, the plastic cover underneath makes more sense but how do you remove it., don't want to snap anything?
 
I think there is a thread here on changing the pollen filter - that describes how to move the glovebox (might be in the VIP section). Unless someone posts more info specifically on the heater resistor location, then I think it's a case of diving in and tracking it down. It's going to be pretty obvious, but then I realise that having changed this component on a number of other cars, I do have some idea of what I am looking for.

Pete
 
Thanks Pete had a quick look for 'pollen filter' and seen some stuff that I think will help, I think the actual post you refer to is in the VIP section

Cheers
 
Personally I couldn’t see the point in replacing the whole unit when it’s only the fuse that’s blown. I’d rather keep the genuine unit and replace the thermal fuse than replace it with an OEM part.
This thing gets hot so is a fire potential...
 
Where do you get the fuse from ?

Thanks,

Pete


Personally I couldn’t see the point in replacing the whole unit when it’s only the fuse that’s blown. I’d rather keep the genuine unit and replace the thermal fuse than replace it with an OEM part.
This thing gets hot so is a fire potential...
 
Good point, I have bought some fuses and the complete unit as some people say the fuse on it's own sometimes doesn't fix it, the video at least shows you how to get to it which was my original concern ;)
 
I checked the fuse 1st for continuity..... open circuit.....
I’ve got 4 fuses left so will keep me going for 8 years!
 
I ended up just soldering a new fuse on the original unit and that fixed it, now have 4 spare fuses and a complete unit for backup :laugh:
 
I ended up just soldering a new fuse on the original unit and that fixed it,

You were lucky! o_O Soft solder normally melts at around 370 deg C. The thermal fuse is typically 216 deg C. Did you apply a heat sink whilst soldering to the fuse lead outs?
 
You were lucky! o_O Soft solder normally melts at around 370 deg C. The thermal fuse is typically 216 deg C. Did you apply a heat sink whilst soldering to the fuse lead outs?

No I didn't , I have a crappy old soldering iron and to be honest didn't get the greatest joins but it's working anyway. Out of interest how would you go about connecting the new fuse if not by soldering?
 
Out of interest how would you go about connecting the new fuse if not by soldering?

The original is attached using a very quick 'spot weld' type technique. Most guides I have seen just wrap and crimp the thermal fuse to the posts. But this is not ideal as a poor resistive contact will cause local heating and blow the thermal fuse!

Consideration also needs to be given to the bulk of any crimping method. This could affect the thermal characteristics of the device.
 
I replaced my fan resistor pack a few months ago and after not very long the new one has also blown. Did I just get a dodgy pack or is it likely that something is causing this to blow that needs fixing first?
 
Was it an OEM replacement or eBay special?

What's the van spec?
 
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