Fitting Tow Bar Kit

[Josh Corps]

is fitting a tow bar a relatively easy task? The van is pretty much stripped already so I figured now would be a good time.

As with everything I would like to save money and do it myself, I'm an electrical engineer but where I get tripped up is when I'm working with modules and confusing wiring formats.

I have Vcds to code if that's essential.

If anyone has done it themselves and has any pointers that would be great. Is it as simple as plug and play into an already existing plug or am I going to have to splice/solder my connections into the loom?

 

[Pauly]

It’s basically plug and play (depending what kit you buy) but not as simple as you think, there’s an additional module that lives under front seat that just plugs in but there’s additional cores to run into dash that need to be connected up that are a bit fiddly
Coding is 100% required after install
If you use the search function and look for towbar threads there are various posts covering this and even pictures of the instruction manual

 

[Josh Corps]

I did have a look at all 8 pages of the tow bar threads and there doesn't seem to be any on he actual installation. Loads on what kind to buy and people's experience.

Can you point me to the post for a instruction manual picture. Also there seems to be mixed opinions on how much it would cost to be professionally fitted.

 

[Pauly]

Dealer = £1000 upwards
INdependant = £500-600ish but varies

 

[Neilson]

The hardest bit is running the cables. If it's stripped it will be easier.

 

[Josh Corps]

So I'm assuming he £120 options on eBay are without he module and you just splice into the rear light cluster?

 

[Stigofthedub]

So I'm assuming he £120 options on eBay are without he module and you just splice into the rear light cluster?

No don't do that, splicing in will cause problems with the system. Check out PF Jones web site. I've done it twice, once on my t5and recently on my t6. Both with westfalia tow bars. The t5 with a westfalia loom and the t6 with a right connections loom. The right connections loom is easier, but less neat both have a module and both need coding. As has been said running the cables is the tricky bit, and for me taking off the rear bumper without damaging it was worse. You will need to remove the metal bumper bar and buy a packing piece from a dealer to support the plastic bumper outer skin. Very satisfying when done and I saved almost £300 on the best quote I had for the same equipment.
Good luck.

 

[craigblues]

This may now sound stupid. But.... you only need to code if your fitting the electrics, right?

If your just fitting a towbar with no electrics you don’t need to code anything do you? I.e for reverse sensors etc.

 

[Stigofthedub]

When a trailer cable is plugged in the module detects this, presumably by the electrical loading of the lights. When detected the vehicle fog lights are disabled so there is no reflection, and the reverse park sensors are disabled otherwise you would have that screaming at you constantly. I have tried this when moving my caravan a short distance but not connecting up. not sure if reversing lights are disabled on the van as well. Oh and the nice picture of the back end of your van and front of the trailer I would not be shown on the screen.

 

[Dieseldonkey]

I've had a Westfalia detachable towbar fitted with a PF Jones vehicle specific 7 pin electric kit. There is a module and two 15 amp fuses mounted under the bonnet next to the battery. Here's the thing though. There has been no coding done. Yet the lights on my bike rack light board all function as they should. What doesn't happen, is any indication on the dash board of trailer lights or indicators. There's no indicator buzzer either. Does anyone know if coding would rectify this, or is there no indication on the dash regardless.

 

[teamfly]

Running a pf Jones kit, no buzzing for indicator, but bulb warning comes on on dash if bulb out.
Parking sensors don't disable though....

 

[Littleblackflash]

I have a PFjones kit too. It will work without coding but it will only read signals from the canbus and hence the lights will work.

If you code it, the towbar ecu can tell the rest of the vans systems its working. So the ABS stability control act differently, Parking sensors are disabled and the screen just shows a trailer connected to the van. I think the rear fog lights are also disabled and only work on the trailer.

Coding is quite easy to do with VCDS.

 

[Dieseldonkey]

Thanks for the response chaps. Although I have small trailers, they get used really infrequently. The towbar will mainly be used for a bike or motorcycle rack. No parking sensors fitted, just a rear view camera. So stability control, fog light and parking sensor adaptions would not really be required in my case. I'll maybe just leave the coding unless a chance of getting it done presents itself at some point in the future.

 

[Alanmh]

Hi Guys. I got a westfalia kit from PF Jones arrived yesterday and I fitted it today with the vehicle specific wiring kit. I am pretty sure I have done it right, but either there is something wrong with my trailer board, the kit or I have indeed made a booboo.

The trailer board indicators work fine, but immediatley I plug the trailer board in the brake lights come on, I cant see if the tail lights are on as well as the brake lights are too bright to see. The lights are off on the van and I have double checked the wiring in the 7 pin plug.

I had the switch with the little plug for my lights so took option 2 and joined the grey and white wires that would normally go under the passenger seat.

The only clue is that the pf jones unit has a red light when I first connect it, but it soon goes out and then theres green or green flashing as it should be.

Any ideas?

 

[Deaky]

Hi Guys. I got a westfalia kit from PF Jones arrived yesterday and I fitted it today with the vehicle specific wiring kit. I am pretty sure I have done it right, but either there is something wrong with my trailer board, the kit or I have indeed made a booboo.

The trailer board indicators work fine, but immediatley I plug the trailer board in the brake lights come on, I cant see if the tail lights are on as well as the brake lights are too bright to see. The lights are off on the van and I have double checked the wiring in the 7 pin plug.

I had the switch with the little plug for my lights so took option 2 and joined the grey and white wires that would normally go under the passenger seat.

The only clue is that the pf jones unit has a red light when I first connect it, but it soon goes out and then theres green or green flashing as it should be.

Any ideas?

I did this on my T5. You’ve picked up the wrong cables for the brake lights at the BCM. From memory, you should have black with a red trace and you’ll find you’ve connected to red with a black trace (the permanent live to the courtesy light circuit) hence the brake fights permanently on.

 

[Alanmh]

Thanks Deaky, that sounds right. Will change it over tomorrow night. Saved me a lot of trouble I hope

Alan

 

[Alanmh]

Just noticed that it's the courtesy light. That explains why they were permanently on even with ignition off, then went out after a short delay. Looked very weird.

 

[Alanmh]

I did this on my T5. You’ve picked up the wrong cables for the brake lights at the BCM. From memory, you should have black with a red trace and you’ll find you’ve connected to red with a black trace (the permanent live to the courtesy light circuit) hence the brake fights permanently on.

Thanks @Deaky that was exactly the problem. All fixed and working now. Only slight difference was that the black with red trace also had some yellow dots on it but it definitely works the brake lights and there was no other black with red trace.

 

[Hickey]

I did this on my T5. You’ve picked up the wrong cables for the brake lights at the BCM. From memory, you should have black with a red trace and you’ll find you’ve connected to red with a black trace (the permanent live to the courtesy light circuit) hence the brake fights permanently on.

You star! saved me getting a auto electrician in as mine was doing same

 

[ianp63]

Just fitted mine on a T6 and took ages to identify the wire colour combinations in poor lighting with bad eyesight.....eventually did it by process of elimination... and it works!
I’m no expert but I think I may have spotted an error in the PF Jones Fitting Instructions for anyone with a Smart Alternator. It shows the towing loom earth connection direct to the battery terminal, bypassing the sensor on the battery earth lead. Shouldn’t the wiring be earthed on the chassis somewhere before the sensor so the computer can see the current drawn, or is it so small it doesn’t matter? I’ve asked the supplier, but not heard back yet.