DPF Regen every 50Km. Excessive Oil consumption CXEB 150kw

Yikes. In 3 KM your soot went from 9-16g! Assuming you dont have a leak then your engine must be burning that oil and dumping it to the DPF. Does your tailpipe have soot if you rub your finger inside it?
 
Eek, doesn't look good! 274 miles per Litre at one point, needs looking at before the DPF is totally shot.
 
Yikes. In 3 KM your soot went from 9-16g! Assuming you dont have a leak then your engine must be burning that oil and dumping it to the DPF. Does your tailpipe have soot if you rub your finger inside it?
Inside the tailpipe is just normal light brown dust. It's also amazing that I never see black smoke in the mirrors or white oil smoke.
 
Hmmm.... looks like the log is an earlier one as it stops at 238907 km.

Thanks for sharing - very intriguing data!
Anyways, the same phenomena can be seen - e.g. below from 238579 km to 238763 km = 184 km, 2 hours.
Plotted the two soot mass parameters (calculated & measured) which are used by ECU to monitor and trigger DPF regeneration.

Normally "soot calculated" (blue) is the dominant one. Here it's a kind of opposite. As soon as "soot measured" reaches the DPF regeneration trigger level (30 grams) also the "calculated" is jumped to 30 grams which then forces the DPF regeneration to start.

I think "soot measured" is actually measuring/estimating DPF blockage level - by actually measuring differential pressure across the DPF.

1710354599689.png

The level area in "soot measured" above at from 11660 to 12090 seems to be a period at standstill engine idling - took advantage to verify differential pressure across the DPF at stable conditions (below) - turns out to be a stable 25.1 hPa (which is quite high). I guess the clogged DPF is the culprit for the too frequent DPF regenerations - ECU sees too high differential pressure and triggers the DPF regeneration to clean the blockage.

1710355488202.png

Also noted that DPF oil ash residue has been reset and currently value is only 2 grams which neither corresponds the mileage of the vehicle nor observed high differential pressure. Wondering if the discrepancy between differential pressure and DPF oil ash value confuses the ECU???

The log files look like made by Android version of VAG DPF app. Another fancy Android app dedicated to monitor T6 diesel engines even more deeply DPF conditions can be found here:
 
Hmmm.... looks like the log is an earlier one as it stops at 238907 km.

Thanks for sharing - very intriguing data!
Anyways, the same phenomena can be seen - e.g. below from 238579 km to 238763 km = 184 km, 2 hours.
Plotted the two soot mass parameters (calculated & measured) which are used by ECU to monitor and trigger DPF regeneration.

Normally "soot calculated" (blue) is the dominant one. Here it's a kind of opposite. As soon as "soot measured" reaches the DPF regeneration trigger level (30 grams) also the "calculated" is jumped to 30 grams which then forces the DPF regeneration to start.

I think "soot measured" is actually measuring/estimating DPF blockage level - by actually measuring differential pressure across the DPF.

View attachment 232866

The level area in "soot measured" at from 11660 to 12090 seems to be a period at standstill engine idling - took advantage to verify differential pressure across the DPF at stable conditions - turns out to be a stable 25.1 hPa (which is quite high). I guess the clogged DPF is the culprit for the too frequent DPF regenerations - ECU sees too high differential pressure and triggers the DPF regeneration to clean the blockage.

View attachment 232873

Noted that DPF oil ash residue has been reset and currently value is only 2 grams which neither corresponds the mileage of the vehicle nor observed high differential pressure. Wondering if the discrepancy between differential pressure and DPF oil ash value confuses the ECU???

The log files look like made by Android version. Another fancy Android app dedicated to monitor T6 diesel engines even more deeply DPF conditions can be found here:
WoW!!! Thanks for all that. I've installed Torque Pro and will give it a go later today, but only doing 8 miles each way today.
There's a lot to set up, so I'll get stuck into that.
More data attached, sorry, just clicked wrong file.
Ash residue..... Well....., I was stuck in limp mode, I was trying to force a regen by setting regen while driving, But it wouldn't trigger.( I didnt write down the soot or ash levels, but from memory around 72gm soot and can't remember ash.) So I went into IDE07903 and changed Adaption of Ash to 0.1. Then the orange regen light came on so I drove to Goole and back on M62, past home nearly to J29 ( I guess 40miles) when the light went off. Thanks for the help Derek
 

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@Derek99B that doesn't look good! It might be worth getting a compression check carried out to see if the rings/bores are sealing properly.

I had a 2006 Passat 2.0 Tdi that went through similar amounts of oil. Notably, it was worse on long motorway journey where I could often see 2-300 miles per litre.

In the end it was burnt out piston rings as a result (I was told) of either running low on oil or possibly running on petrol by mistake :oops:

Sat on the motorway, constantly on boost was just pressurising the sump (blowing by the rings) which pushed oil back into the intake where it burnt away. As you might imagine, we had major DPF issues too.
 
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WoW!!! Thanks for all that. I've installed Torque Pro and will give it a go later today, but only doing 8 miles each way today.
There's a lot to set up, so I'll get stuck into that.
More data attached, sorry, just clicked wrong file.
Ash residue..... Well....., I was stuck in limp mode, I was trying to force a regen by setting regen while driving, But it wouldn't trigger.( I didnt write down the soot or ash levels, but from memory around 72gm soot and can't remember ash.) So I went into IDE07903 and changed Adaption of Ash to 0.1. Then the orange regen light came on so I drove to Goole and back on M62, past home nearly to J29 ( I guess 40miles) when the light went off. Thanks for the help Derek
Hi @Derek99B , Did you get this resolved, i think am having the same issue?
 
Hi @Derek99B , Did you get this resolved, i think am having the same issue?
Hi
It has been a long story, and not a happy one.
I'm right busy at the moment so haven't got time to do a proper reply.
When you say you’re having the same problems, is that oil consumption or just dpf.
If it's oil ,then that’s really bad news. Basically the engine is knackered, rings worn beyond recovery. I've lost count of how much I’ve spent but certainly 17k+
I've made mistakes along the way. causing some of that expense.
I must go, keep in touch. Derek
 
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Thanks for replying, i have DPF issues so assume it blocked. Starting to look for the cause but don’t think it’s oil consumption. My van is CXHA
 
Thanks for replying, i have DPF issues so assume it blocked. Starting to look for the cause but don’t think it’s oil consumption. My van is CXHA
So how much oil is it using, i.e. miles per litre? A CXHA in good health shouldn't be using anything significant, and should go between oil changes without a top up.
Are you using VW 507.00 spec oil?
 
Yes using correct spec oil, I had a full service approx 1000 miles ago. I need to check accurately but very little drop on the dipstick
 
Thanks for replying, i have DPF issues so assume it blocked. Starting to look for the cause but don’t think it’s oil consumption. My van is CXHA
This is a bit naughty, but if you are desperate to clear the DPF it might work. I've not proved it as I don't know if it actually damaged the DPF, but if your faced with paying out for a new one it might be worth a go.
Park up with the rear end as high as possible, get as much slope so the DPF is well below the exhaust outlet. Good ventilation essential, preferably a bit of wind towards the rear.
There's a tube going up from the top of the DPF, disconnect that further up and connect a longer tube up through the engine area to clear above and add a funnel.
Go to a builders merchant (MKM is good) and get some Brick Cleaner, It's 10% hydrochloric Acid (Jewson's is only 7%). less that £10 for 5l. It's dangerous stuff, lots of COSHH. Now wearing old clothes and gloves with a second person nearby with a hosepipe ready to squirt and spillage. Slowly pour the Brick cleaner into the funnel . Keep and eye underneath for it running out, there is a vent at the end of the DPF. I'm not sure about quantity, but no more than 2 litres. Run the engine to splash it around a minute or so. Then send plenty of water down the tube. Then run the engine.
Then plenty of hosing around to clear off the outcome. You might find it also cleans the area underneath, so end up with another job of brick cleaning the whole yard to match.
Have fun...... Derek
 
This is a bit naughty, but if you are desperate to clear the DPF it might work. I've not proved it as I don't know if it actually damaged the DPF, but if your faced with paying out for a new one it might be worth a go.
Park up with the rear end as high as possible, get as much slope so the DPF is well below the exhaust outlet. Good ventilation essential, preferably a bit of wind towards the rear.
There's a tube going up from the top of the DPF, disconnect that further up and connect a longer tube up through the engine area to clear above and add a funnel.
Go to a builders merchant (MKM is good) and get some Brick Cleaner, It's 10% hydrochloric Acid (Jewson's is only 7%). less that £10 for 5l. It's dangerous stuff, lots of COSHH. Now wearing old clothes and gloves with a second person nearby with a hosepipe ready to squirt and spillage. Slowly pour the Brick cleaner into the funnel . Keep and eye underneath for it running out, there is a vent at the end of the DPF. I'm not sure about quantity, but no more than 2 litres. Run the engine to splash it around a minute or so. Then send plenty of water down the tube. Then run the engine.
Then plenty of hosing around to clear off the outcome. You might find it also cleans the area underneath, so end up with another job of brick cleaning the whole yard to match.
Have fun...... Derek

Carbon does not react with acids.
Caustic chemicals are required.
 
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The best carbon dissolver I’ve found on the domestic market is Mr Muscle Oven Cleaner, best buy in multipack from Amazon.
Useless is a DPF and I wouldn’t put it near aluminium or any other reactive metals.
It will clean a removed and stripped EGR cooler but takes many doses and frankly isn’t worth it if you value your time.
 
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