TLDR: Can an airlock in the heater matrix cause a vacuum in the coolant system? How simple a job is it to bleed the system? If not, how complicated is it to replace a heater matrix (once the dash has been removed)
Hi all,
Apologies for the long post, I've had a search through the forums for answers and found some useful bits, but thought I'd post this as well to see if anybody had any advice.
66 plate T6 Highline (with Air Con, which might be relevant...)
I've been having some issues with slow coolant loss for a while, just topping up as and when (only a small amount every month or so until recently). Garage have pressure tested the system and found no leaks, and have suggested a leak in the EGR cooler is the cause (It seems very similar to the issues on this thread: Coolant Leak [Resolved]).
However, I also have an issue with the heater matrix with no hot air coming into the cab.
Symptoms:
- slow loss of coolant
- pressure/vacuum in coolant header bottle (coolant looks low, but rushes up when the lid is removed when cold)
- cold air from cabin heater
- white smoke/antifreeze smell (I haven't noticed this so it's minor, but the garage mentioned it)
(previously)
- water pump seized (replaced)
- starter motor seized (replaced - likely coincidental, although it is very close to where there is signs of leakage from EGR cooler). This seizure also coincided with a significant coolant loss (I wonder if trying to start the engine with a seized starter may have exacerbated a leak in the EGR...)
Diagnosis from garage:
- blocked heater matrix
- leak in EGR cooler (there is some staining on the exterior of the EGR cooler which suggests this is a likely candidate)
I'm going to get the van booked in to replace the EGR, but I'm concerned about the heater matrix. I'm wondering if corrosion in the matrix could be the root cause of the above issues, and if I leave it I'm in for a long road of new problems.
I'm baulking at the cost of replacement from the garage (quoted two days labour due mainly to the time taken to remove and replace the dash (as per Dash removal for heater repair)), so am considering doing the job myself, however before I start such a major job, I thought I'd check if there's an easier way to fix the issue. Could an airlock in the heater matrix cause the symptoms seen above, and is it possible to bleed the system without major upheaval?
Any other thoughts/advice would be gratefully received.
Cheers.
Hi all,
Apologies for the long post, I've had a search through the forums for answers and found some useful bits, but thought I'd post this as well to see if anybody had any advice.
66 plate T6 Highline (with Air Con, which might be relevant...)
I've been having some issues with slow coolant loss for a while, just topping up as and when (only a small amount every month or so until recently). Garage have pressure tested the system and found no leaks, and have suggested a leak in the EGR cooler is the cause (It seems very similar to the issues on this thread: Coolant Leak [Resolved]).
However, I also have an issue with the heater matrix with no hot air coming into the cab.
Symptoms:
- slow loss of coolant
- pressure/vacuum in coolant header bottle (coolant looks low, but rushes up when the lid is removed when cold)
- cold air from cabin heater
- white smoke/antifreeze smell (I haven't noticed this so it's minor, but the garage mentioned it)
(previously)
- water pump seized (replaced)
- starter motor seized (replaced - likely coincidental, although it is very close to where there is signs of leakage from EGR cooler). This seizure also coincided with a significant coolant loss (I wonder if trying to start the engine with a seized starter may have exacerbated a leak in the EGR...)
Diagnosis from garage:
- blocked heater matrix
- leak in EGR cooler (there is some staining on the exterior of the EGR cooler which suggests this is a likely candidate)
I'm going to get the van booked in to replace the EGR, but I'm concerned about the heater matrix. I'm wondering if corrosion in the matrix could be the root cause of the above issues, and if I leave it I'm in for a long road of new problems.
I'm baulking at the cost of replacement from the garage (quoted two days labour due mainly to the time taken to remove and replace the dash (as per Dash removal for heater repair)), so am considering doing the job myself, however before I start such a major job, I thought I'd check if there's an easier way to fix the issue. Could an airlock in the heater matrix cause the symptoms seen above, and is it possible to bleed the system without major upheaval?
Any other thoughts/advice would be gratefully received.
Cheers.
