Clear varnish for finishing birch ply

[Farnorthsurfer]

My furniture is slowly coming together and I am using quality 15mm Birch ply instead of laminate. This is going to be dyed blue and I need to finish this to protect it. I am looking for a quality crystal clear finish and don’t want the slight yellowing that you get with polyurethane solvent based varnish. I would like the heat and solvent protection but don’t know of a product that will go on and stay clear. Anyone got any suggestions?

 

[Chippy1970]

Whenever I make real veneer furniture we use a satin or Matt floor lacquer. Hardest finish you'll get

 

[jimc91]

My furniture is slowly coming together and I am using quality 15mm Birch ply instead of laminate. This is going to be dyed blue and I need to finish this to protect it. I am looking for a quality crystal clear finish and don’t want the slight yellowing that you get with polyurethane solvent based varnish. I would like the heat and solvent protection but don’t know of a product that will go on and stay clear. Anyone got any suggestions?

This is exactly what I’m planning- I’ve been researching blue wood stains, what are you going to use to dye the wood blue?

 

[andys]

What about an epoxy coating?

 

[Farnorthsurfer]

This is exactly what I’m planning- I’ve been researching blue wood stains, what are you going to use to dye the wood blue?

I am using Liberon Blue wood dye, it comes in a tiny bottle and you mix the colour you want with water. The hard part is replicating whatever colour you like if you don’t have enough to do the job in one pass. My kitchen is currently full of offcuts drying in various shades of blue. 1cm of dye in an Ikea plastic straw to one pint of water seems to be about right for what I want which is a sort of sand sea blue colour. Photos to follow when I get further on. My build thread is well behind.

 

[Farnorthsurfer]

What about an epoxy coating?

Had not thought of that thanks, will look into it. I guess the best job would be a paint shop and clear vehicle lacquer. But don’t want the cost to be honest. And I don’t have the space to spray at home.
Have some experience with epoxy for composite repairs on windsurf boards. Guess it’s the same process just brushed on.

 

[Farnorthsurfer]

This is under artificial light and there are multiple coats making the line in the middle but this is the effect I was after. A little of the dye goes a long way.

 

[jimc91]

The problem I’ve read about staining birch ply is avoiding a patchy looking finish so will need to experiment too

 

[shropschris]

you could try Mono coat Buy Rubio Monocoat from Naturally Oak
super easy to apply, re varnish you need acrylic put it on with a fleece

 

[Paynewright]

I’ve used liberon blue on OSB wardrobe doors followed by several coats of screwfix own brand water based floor varnish. Obviously on OSB the varnish finish not critical.

Have you researched anything in the marine / boat arena? They usually have the best finishes!

Ian

 

[Farnorthsurfer]

you could try Mono coat Buy Rubio Monocoat from Naturally Oak
super easy to apply, re varnish you need acrylic put it on with a fleece

Thanks, not seen this product before I will have a read up.

 

[rover220]

Osmo oil

 

[Farnorthsurfer]

Whenever I make real veneer furniture we use a satin or Matt floor lacquer. Hardest finish you'll get

The hard part seems to be getting one that goes on clear and stays clear. I have good experience of a number of wood finishes, my favourite has always been Danish oil and wax but it tints the wood as do many other oils and solvent based products. The best protection is Polyurethane (except for an epoxy resin I guess) and thebest for clarity is Acrylic.
I did read up on the epoxy methods and am no stranger to surfboards repairs using epoxy, lots of marine builders finish in epoxy and it can look great.
It woudl be a lot of work though and expensive.
Think I might go with the Acrylic interior varnish for the carcass accepting the durability issues and a poly solvent based finish for the worktop in natural birch ply.
Both are easier to repair and recoat than epoxy, keeping it simple. Thanks for the advice

 

[Paul C]

Another vote here for Osmo. they do a variety of finishes and its really hard wearing.

 

[jimc91]

Osmo oil

think i might give that a go, the blue looks good

 

[Dieseldonkey]

What about clear auto paint lacquer. My local go to spray shop did the bamboo table and work tops with it. Seems very durable. Designed for plastic bumpers, so has a bit of give in it if the wood expands/shrinks a bit.

 

[Ann3x]

I have lacquered bamboo in my van too. It looks great but exposed edges chip pretty easily and when it does chip its hard to refinish the laquered finish to a good standard (the lacquer is so flat any touch up is pretty obvious). If I was doing my van again I wouldnt lacquer - personally....

I've been using Osmo Poly-X recently on hardwood carpentry projects, its a hard wax in oil finish, similar to Rubio monocoat but no need to mix 2 parts so a bit simpler to apply without waste. You paint it on with a brush and then buff in, wipe off excess then leave 24h before light sand + second coat. Really nice finish + easy to refinish if (when) you get minor damage - just buff on a little more.

 

[shropschris]

think i might give that a go, the blue looks good

osmo is ok it takes an age to go of if you apply to thick ,we tend to apply it like french polish if we use it ,the mono coat is much nicer to use ,you cant over coat it so you get a really nice even flat finish easy to repair ect,but not that cheap horses for corses an all that

 

[shropschris]

The problem I’ve read about staining birch ply is avoiding a patchy looking finish so will need to experiment too

again the mono coat comes in tints with a fleece pad you get a nice even finish

 

[Farnorthsurfer]

again the mono coat comes in tints with a fleece pad you get a nice even finish

Bit confused by the Mono Coat website, sounds good but doesn't say if the coating is clear, mostly talks about tints which I am trying to avoid as I want to preserve the clarity of the blue wood dye. It's going to fade and the wood will age eventually. I have spent a long time making the units by hand mostly. Old school with a bandsaw an Elu router and elbow grease. Keen to get it to look just right even if only last a few years. Thanks for all the tips, proper professional advice on here everytime.