Cab heater only blowing cold air
- Thread starter Forrest4799
- Start date
Mine just started misbehaving..... have taken black panel off but not sure how to remove that small holding bolt... is it a 5mm? (circled blue)
I noticed that the long lever (#2) doesn't move when changing temperature at the dial, yet the white part (#1) is moving. When manually moving part #3, temperature changes... Have made a small video but not sure how to upload it here so put it into YT, here is the link:
Thanks Tony, will WhatsApp you. Been struggling to get that motor off....
Hi all - I wanted to make you aware of a version of this heater linkage arm that I've designed which might help some folk. I'm a long serving senior mechanical design engineer and when this problem arose I did what I always do and come up with a solution! It's uber strong, vastly improved over the OE one, working beautifully, looks fab from every angle and the VW specialists that have used it to date are very happy.
I've posted it in the FOR SALE section so if you'd like to read more about it then visit here:
VW REPLACEMENT HEATER LINKAGE & INSTRUCTIONS
Any questions please get in touch
I've posted it in the FOR SALE section so if you'd like to read more about it then visit here:
VW REPLACEMENT HEATER LINKAGE & INSTRUCTIONS
Any questions please get in touch
Haven't been able to get a response.
Anyone else have luck in sourcing a replacement? Am located in Australia
Cheers JPR
Hi - I'm keen to help out. Coincidentally this part is on my list to design a replacement for after I've knocked out a couple of other designs I'm working on.
I'd suggest that if you send me the broken one, I'll design a high quality replacement ASAP and send it back free of charge if you cover postage. The problem is you are in Australia and I'm in the UK so postage isn't cheap!
I designed the linkage shown above. This part would be a doddle in comparison.
Let me know if you are interested, no worries if not
I’ve just fixed my car (2012 SantaFe) which was blowing cold on one side by replacing the pollen filter. Not my van, or even a VW, but maybe you all could advise if it’s supposed to look like this?
Note for future repairs:
Bolts to take the actuator out are 5.5mm this is the same a 7/32"
Might save someone buying a tool.
Does anyone have any tips on how to get the actuator back together? Myself my wife and my daughter have all tried to get the ball end of the new part into the arm. I've been at this for 8 hrs now and after modifying sockets and using a pry tool to get the broken piece out of the arm I'm totally stuck on how to get it back together.
Bolts to take the actuator out are 5.5mm this is the same a 7/32"
Might save someone buying a tool.
Does anyone have any tips on how to get the actuator back together? Myself my wife and my daughter have all tried to get the ball end of the new part into the arm. I've been at this for 8 hrs now and after modifying sockets and using a pry tool to get the broken piece out of the arm I'm totally stuck on how to get it back together.
Last edited:
Just completed my repair! Tips for anyone else trying it:
- I had to clip the ball and socket joint of the actuator bracket and arm together first before connecting the bracket and actuator together. It takes a LOT of pressure for your fingers given the awkward angle.
- Speaking of angle - I could just get into the bits by laying on my back with my legs hanging out of the drivers side door.
- I have no idea how anyone gets the hidden screw back in! I managed eventually by printing a modified ‘stubby’ 5.5mm socket (see photo). I could ‘just’ get my ratchet in then (the little draper one on Amazon).
- I had to set the ratchet to ‘neutral’ and use pressure to get a fraction of a turn out of the screw so it would bite before I could turn the ratchet back on and do a couple of clicks at a time with my fingertips.
- Finally I could swap back to my regular socket to nip it up.
Hi everyone,
First post! I’ve been looking through this thread as we’ve had a problem with our 2017 T6 Caravelle this week. Had a look up behind the dash only for the motor and linkage to fall out- looks like the previous owner has had a go as there were cable ties everywhere!
I now need a new motor as one leg has been snapped off, a replacement arm and also the bolts that hold the motor on?
Can anyone help with where to source a motor and the screws/bolts?
Thanks
Tim
First post! I’ve been looking through this thread as we’ve had a problem with our 2017 T6 Caravelle this week. Had a look up behind the dash only for the motor and linkage to fall out- looks like the previous owner has had a go as there were cable ties everywhere!
I now need a new motor as one leg has been snapped off, a replacement arm and also the bolts that hold the motor on?
Can anyone help with where to source a motor and the screws/bolts?
Thanks
Tim
So bit of journey, I've uploaded a 3D model for those wanting a DIY approach to fixing this problem.
VW T6 Heater Flap Control Arm RHD - Free 3D Print Model - MakerWorld
Download this free 3D print file designed by jproz. VW T6 Heater Flap Control Arm RHD. Many owners of VW T6 Multivan and maybe Transporter, Caravelle and California have reported the cabin temperature no longer working on the driver's side in RHD vehicles. There are two parts that are prone to...
makerworld.com
I've left detailed instructions in the link above, hope this can be of help.
Note: this is just the original design, no re-engineering has been done.
Last edited:
Just completed this flap motor change, wow one of the most awkward repairs I’ve done!!!
One tip, I found beneficial, is change your position to either both legs out drivers door or both legs out passenger door. The angles give you better access at different points of the dissasembly and reassembly.
Also, get one of those extendable magnetic aerial tools. It’s a doddle using one of them to get the hidden bolt back in when replacing it all.
Also, when recalibrating the stops with the basic coding, make sure the arm is on the motor, I couldn’t work out why it didn’t work until I realised the arm has to be on for it to learn the resistance and stop positions…. Spent a good hour wasted on this thinking my new motor was bad!!!! Idiot
One tip, I found beneficial, is change your position to either both legs out drivers door or both legs out passenger door. The angles give you better access at different points of the dissasembly and reassembly.
Also, get one of those extendable magnetic aerial tools. It’s a doddle using one of them to get the hidden bolt back in when replacing it all.
Also, when recalibrating the stops with the basic coding, make sure the arm is on the motor, I couldn’t work out why it didn’t work until I realised the arm has to be on for it to learn the resistance and stop positions…. Spent a good hour wasted on this thinking my new motor was bad!!!! Idiot
Hi @Hamster67
Do you have a link to video for lower dash removal (black area around pedals)? We've a T6 Shuttle 2016 with dual zone climate.
Only decent video I can find is removing lower dash section that houses headlight barrel.
Need to establish cause of heater blowing cold as per this thread!
Thanks in advance
Similar threads
