Cab heater only blowing cold air
- Thread starter Forrest4799
- Start date
Im not sure if this is the actual one I used bit its much the same. I only removed the lower drivers side trim and the centre trim.
Oh, ok...... thank you. Removed screws but couldn't seem to remove the lower black section. Will try again.
Thank you v much
Also check your control knobs. I had upgraded mine a year before and all that was wrong was the knob was turning but not catching the stalk that had rounded off.
Hi, Brought motor linkage replacement spare part from RRD and in process of removing panels. Should you be able to see any movement of the mechanisms if the heater motor linkage is broken when turning the temperature knob with the ignition on? There's nothing when I try. All the other functions like heat speed and direction are working fine. Previously managed to move arm to 'hot' temporarily so I had some heat when driving rather than cold.
NiallForReal
New Member
Hi T6rs,
Here's a quick run down of my experience re cabin heat/air con eventual fix on 120K mileage Shuttle.
Initially bought and fitted PVC printed, then ally actuators, with new motor. Plastics broke but ally worked for a while, then airbox connecting link arm snapped, forcing buy of new airbox. Whole dash had to come out to replace, which trusted mechanic did, due to no space and time to do, on my part, so ££££ spent, but job done!
Inspection of old box revealed cause, in my opinion - design fault, or usual timed obsolescence!! Box flaps rotate on spindles, housed directly in PVC pockets, with nylon, washers. Some flaps moved smoothly, no problem, others very stiffly, due to regular use, which I would say was reason for actuator/link arm breakage.
If I had had the time and space to access, I would certainly have lubricated bearing points with a temperature rated silicone grease and fully renovated unit, renewing broken parts, solely. Mechanic did say that new airbox was better design, which is perhaps of some small benefit.
Hope the above is useful to anyone in same boat. Cheers.
Here's a quick run down of my experience re cabin heat/air con eventual fix on 120K mileage Shuttle.
Initially bought and fitted PVC printed, then ally actuators, with new motor. Plastics broke but ally worked for a while, then airbox connecting link arm snapped, forcing buy of new airbox. Whole dash had to come out to replace, which trusted mechanic did, due to no space and time to do, on my part, so ££££ spent, but job done!
Inspection of old box revealed cause, in my opinion - design fault, or usual timed obsolescence!! Box flaps rotate on spindles, housed directly in PVC pockets, with nylon, washers. Some flaps moved smoothly, no problem, others very stiffly, due to regular use, which I would say was reason for actuator/link arm breakage.
If I had had the time and space to access, I would certainly have lubricated bearing points with a temperature rated silicone grease and fully renovated unit, renewing broken parts, solely. Mechanic did say that new airbox was better design, which is perhaps of some small benefit.
Hope the above is useful to anyone in same boat. Cheers.
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