Wheel Rub !!

M

mattyredvan

Member
Hi Guys,

I'm new to posting on here but have found very useful info for quite a while since owning the van. I have a 2018 204 DSG Kombi.

It has been lowered and was fitted from new with 275/35 R20. I found them too harsh so I changed to 275/40 R20 and on extreme lock there is a faint rubbing. I can only feel / hear it on right lock in drive i.e. not on left lock or in either lock in reverse. This tells me that the tyre size is extremely marginal. I read on here that 275/40 r20 should be fine, but obviously not (maybe when combined with the H&R lowering springs).

Anyway, is there a simple solution (e.g wheel spacers or something) or have I just wasted a load of Wonga?

Any advice would be really welcomed. Thanks.

Matt.
 
Depends on your wheel offset, I had to go 265/40/20 on my bus.

Where are you? You may be near someone who could take a look and advise.
 
Insert Coin said:
Depends on your wheel offset, I had to go 265/40/20 on my bus.

Where are you? You may be near someone who could take a look and advise.
Click to expand...
Hi Colin, thanks. I’m near Glastonbury in Somerset. I was hoping to find a solution based on previous experience (without wishing anyone else problems!).
 
I think it would be worth experimenting with a hot air gun, and try to re-mould the plastic inner wheel arch liners at the rub point;
I am assuming that there is no damage at all to the tyre(s)
If it's easier you could always remove the wheel(S), to gain better access.
You should see the rub mark on the liner
You are probably only looking at a couple of mm movement, to stop the tyre meeting the inner liner.

You could look at spacers also if there is enough room on the outer wheel arch. Maybe 5mm would do it.
 
chriscroft said:
I think it would be worth experimenting with a hot air gun, and try to re-mould the plastic inner wheel arch liners at the rub point;
I am assuming that there is no damage at all to the tyre(s)
If it's easier you could always remove the wheel(S), to gain better access.
You should see the rub mark on the liner
You are probably only looking at a couple of mm movement, to stop the tyre meeting the inner liner.

You could look at spacers also if there is enough room on the outer wheel arch. Maybe 5mm would do it.
Click to expand...
Thanks (Chris?)
The tyre sidewall is already at the limit of the front wheel arches, although the face of the wheel rim itself is a few mm inboard. If I went the spacer route, I agree it can only be a few mm required (e.g. 5mm as you suggested) - would it be a disaster if the wheel (tyre was stuck out of the wheel arch by 5mm)? Not sure I want to go down the heat gun route yet, unless I have to. No damage to tyres yet, but I'd like to keep it that way. The 275/35 r20's that were fitted originally, must have been very close to rubbing too I'm guessing. I used a Will It Fit? calculator and it said it (they) would, so I'm a bit downbeat to be honest. The extra sidewall of the new tyres have made a noticeable difference, so I don't want to revert to the original tyres again. Cheers, Matt.
 
Hi Matt
I'm not sure Will it Fit understands the specific vehicle constraints; it just compares the centre position of the tyre/wheel; rolling radius; tyre width (I think)
The MOT requires that the wheel/tyres are within the arches; but realistically it only really refers to the tyre tops. I run 235mm tyres with a 25mm spacer front and rear; and they should be fine re MOT. So effectively the spacer pushes the wheel out the same amount as a 235+(2*25)=285 wide tyre would do on the same ET off-set wheel .
Therefore a 5mm spacer should work; giving you the same stance that I have (if your wheels are the same ET).
Is the vehicle dropped, by how much, 30mm??
 
Last edited:
I ran 275/40 on my last van ,they rubbed on the gearbox mount ,be careful as it rubbed the edge off my tyre .
I didn't know it was rubbing till vw refused to road test my van as the wires were showing on the tyre .
 
carlg said:
I ran 275/40 on my last van ,they rubbed on the gearbox mount ,be careful as it rubbed the edge off my tyre .
I didn't know it was rubbing till vw refused to road test my van as the wires were showing on the tyre .
Click to expand...
wires sticking out...., I guess the tech had a point ;)
 
All down to your wheel offset really, but a 265 would have been better. As has been said get your heat gun out and have a go at the inner arch. In extreme cases with this size it rubs the chassis.
 
Of course you can use Arch - Extensions - Covers that would give you a few more mm, if that was an issue re MOT; but I think most stations would give you a bit of latitude re this.
The big issue would be if the wheels with spacers started to touch the top of the arches under max compression; resulting in damaged bodywork; but this rare on these vehicles imo.
 
kn0bby said:
Did it really make much difference?
Click to expand...
It makes enough of a difference for me. Mine is lowered and the 35 profiles told me about every bump and ripple in the road, let alone the potholes. The 35’s were Kumho’s probably pressured above 50 assuming I would carry weight to capacity. Mine is a Kombi used as a daily driver and “lifestyle” vehicle I think they are labelled. The new 40’s are Avon rubber and are quieter and pressured for now at 42 all round as I don’t currently carry a bean really. There is now enough give in the sidewalls to soak up the ripples. It hasn’t changed the van into a Bentley or an old Citroen, but it’s definitely better. Cheers.
 
chriscroft said:
Of course you can use Arch - Extensions - Covers that would give you a few more mm, if that was an issue re MOT; but I think most stations would give you a bit of latitude re this.
The big issue would be if the wheels with spacers started to touch the top of the arches under max compression; resulting in damaged bodywork; but this rare on these vehicles imo.
Click to expand...
Good points Chris. My MOT isn’t due for nearly 3 years so I’ll worry about that when I next change the tyres I guess. Thanks for the replies guys. Can anyone recommend the best spacers and is it wise to space the rears by the same amount or is that just aesthetic? I guess I need longer wheel bolts? Thanks.
 
H&R spacers are the ones I bought...seem to know their stuff when you speak to them. Loads of others on here have used the same
 
mattyredvan said:
Good points Chris. My MOT isn’t due for nearly 3 years so I’ll worry about that when I next change the tyres I guess. Thanks for the replies guys. Can anyone recommend the best spacers and is it wise to space the rears by the same amount or is that just aesthetic? I guess I need longer wheel bolts? Thanks.
Click to expand...
The thing with spacers is TUV approved imo.

I would go straight to H&R as my first point of call.

As I recall:

5mm to 20mm thick spacers you get longer wheel bolts (and these should be included with the spacers (H&R), so you discard your original wheel bolts; They also come with security wheel bolts 1 per wheel), and the security key/socket to remove them.

They are all sold in pairs; 1 pair does 2 wheels.

25mm spacers, come with counter-sunk bolts; and wheel bolts which are a few mm shorter than the OEM's. You use the countersunk bolts to bolt the spacer to the hub; then you use the shorter supplied wheel bolts to bolt the wheel to the spacers. You discard the original wheel bolts; but if you wish to use you OEM security wheel bolts ( 1 per wheel), you will need to cut those down using a vice and hack saw (or similar), taking a few mm off the length, so that they are the same length as the H&R supplied wheel bolts,.
If you do this be accurate with your cutting, if they are too long they will hit the face of the wheel hub, and they will seem tight, but they are not; too short and you will not have enough engaged thread to secure the wheel.

30mm+ spacers come with countersunk bolts to bolt the spacer to the hub; and you re-use your OEM wheel bolts and security bolts to bolt the wheel to the hub.&R

You will see the H&R spacers often advertised for VW T5 these are just the same as VW T6 spacers

I would try the link below, as some companies charge extra for the wheel bolts if you need them

Volkswagen T5 H&R Trak+ Wheel Spacers
 
chriscroft said:
The thing with spacers is TUV approved imo.

I would go straight to H&R as my first point of call.

As I recall:

5mm to 20mm thick spacers you get longer wheel bolts (and these should be included with the spacers (H&R), so you discard your original wheel bolts; They also come with security wheel bolts 1 per wheel), and the security key/socket to remove them.

They are all sold in pairs; 1 pair does 2 wheels.

25mm spacers, come with counter-sunk bolts; and wheel bolts which are a few mm shorter than the OEM's. You use the countersunk bolts to bolt the spacer to the hub; then you use the shorter supplied wheel bolts to bolt the wheel to the spacers. You discard the original wheel bolts; but if you wish to use you OEM security wheel bolts ( 1 per wheel), you will need to cut those down using a vice and hack saw (or similar), taking a few mm off the length, so that they are the same length as the H&R supplied wheel bolts,.
If you do this be accurate with your cutting, if they are too long they will hit the face of the wheel hub, and they will seem tight, but they are not; too short and you will not have enough engaged thread to secure the wheel.

30mm+ spacers come with countersunk bolts to bolt the spacer to the hub; and you re-use your OEM wheel bolts and security bolts to bolt the wheel to the hub.&R

You will see the H&R spacers often advertised for VW T5 these are just the same as VW T6 spacers

I would try the link below, as some companies charge extra for the wheel bolts if you need them

Volkswagen T5 H&R Trak+ Wheel Spacers
Click to expand...
Hi, I can't see the 5mm kits on their website?
 
That seems a very wide tyre choice to have on the front, what width are the rims?.
 
Vdubcuz said:
That seems a very wide tyre choice to have on the front, what width are the rims?.
Click to expand...
I don't actually know to be honest - they were on the van from new. The original tyres were 275's, but 35's not 40's so it's the extra sidewall height that has made the difference.
 
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