[T6_measured] 01-Engine - Oil pressure switches & Oil level sensor

I think it was about £230 incl labour and VAT over at IVS in Hudds. I'm sure Mark will love to do another one lol.
Still worth doing the quick scan and test so you know what part needs doing.
When are you back in the country? Has it been an awesome trip? I think it might be pertinent to try do the scan and test then. I dunno if I should even be driving it 😬
 
Garage changed sensor, few miles up the road coil light flashing and not revving past 3k. Again tried to steer then towards the regulator/changeover valve, they've just called to say fixed and it was the valve. Fingers crossed thats it.
 
Garage changed sensor, few miles up the road coil light flashing and not revving past 3k. Again tried to steer then towards the regulator/changeover valve, they've just called to say fixed and it was the valve. Fingers crossed thats it.
Hmmm... Well, I have had @Bigsidavies plug his VCDS into the van and we've established the changeover valve is working. Hopefully this isn't a false positive. I'll have to wait and see.

Does anyone know if changing the sensors involves almost as much work as replacing the changeover valve? Am concerned I may have to take it back three times like others have. Maybe it's worth 'just' getting both sensors and the change over valve all done at the same time...
 
  • Like
Reactions: mmi
Mine's a 2017 cxfa 2.0 tdi 150. When they changed the sensor they said it was a quick job, as was the valve. Not sure which of the 2 sensors they replaced tho. Thanks for all the info in this thread.
 
Hmmm... Well, I have had @Bigsidavies plug his VCDS into the van and we've established the changeover valve is working. Hopefully this isn't a false positive. I'll have to wait and see.

Does anyone know if changing the sensors involves almost as much work as replacing the changeover valve? Am concerned I may have to take it back three times like others have. Maybe it's worth 'just' getting both sensors and the change over valve all done at the same time...
I think the lower one is easy and the top one on mine behind the engine was a pita because all the stuff the cxeb has in the way that had to be removed.
You'll gain no benefit really by having the changeover valve done except the £150 for the part. I'm pretty sure that when it completed the VCDS test successfully it's all good. Mine failed the test immediately and said test aborted for safety reasons.
Go with the cheap pressure switches first. They were less than £30 each for genuine parts.
 
Well, I've just dropped her off - can everyone please cross their fingers for a cheap and efficient resolution 😬🙄😏
 
Apparently all fixed with a new oil pressure sensor. We will see. Off out for a regen shortly as have been driving low revs for two weeks with a cold engine. £110 isn't so painful if sorted.
 
Apparently all fixed with a new oil pressure sensor. We will see. Off out for a regen shortly as have been driving low revs for two weeks with a cold engine. £110 isn't so painful if sorted.
Fingers crossed its just the sensor. Valve replacement and labour for me was £260, after some back and forth the place I bought from has refunded this to me.
 
Finally getting around to having the valve replaced.
Just picked up the part direct from VW in Wicklow, Ireland (198eur inc. VAT 🥲)

Here’s to hoping this finally solves the light🤞🍀
 
I’ve also got the p0164b fault on my 2018 t6 with 63k miles, I’ve had the sump off when I replaced the oil pump belt and stainer was clean at 60k miles had genuine oil + filter at that time. Following this thread I’ve replace the oil regulator valve with a genuine part but still have the coil light coming on when cold. Am I better to replace both switches? I don’t have vcds but do have other diagnostic machines I can use. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks
 
I’ve also got the p0164b fault on my 2018 t6 with 63k miles, I’ve had the sump off when I replaced the oil pump belt and stainer was clean at 60k miles had genuine oil + filter at that time. Following this thread I’ve replace the oil regulator valve with a genuine part but still have the coil light coming on when cold. Am I better to replace both switches? I don’t have vcds but do have other diagnostic machines I can use. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks
Just to update my fault, I replaced both brown and green oil pressure switches, when I removed the brown one from the filter housing the little gauze on the switch was blocked with sludge. The problem seems to be gone now, so will do another. engine flush and another oil+filter change.
 
Hello,
what I would like to do is monitoring both oil switches in car scanner, but I don't find them there. As I can define a sensor myself but I have to know the pid as you see here for oil temperature (which is from this forum)
does anyone know how or where to get this pids (for temp this 22202F value) for the oil pressure switches?
1772109839897.png
 
For


2220a3, the response is just a byte.




Thanks for the info,
with this pid I get three values in Car Scanner:
0: no pressure, (normally) engine off
1: low pressure
3: high pressure

I defined a sensor in car scanner mapping the value to 2 bar for low pressure and 4 bar for high pressure, that were the roundabout real values I measured with my gauge when I had the regulation valve problem.
If it goes to 0 a red background is shown.
engine off (or switch, oil pump not working properly):
1773750987357.webp
engine running idle or with low load:
1773751109553.webp
and with high refs and/or high load:
1773751248155.webp

I have the impression that the pressure switches mostly depending from the load.
So for checking the high pressure working well I defined another sensor which results to a value of 1 if load is over 85% and oil pressure has not switched to high (value = 3), otherwise 0.
then I can use this sensor to visualize a red background warning (that is the black P Öl Last, here with value 0)
1773751679608.webp1773751727647.webp
 
Witam. Silnik CXHA 150. Jak prawidłowo sprawdzić ciśnienie oleju za pomocą manometru? Wyjąłem czujnik z podstawy filtra oleju i podłączyłem tam manometr. Silnik ma 70 stopni Celsjusza, na manometrach prawie 90 stopni.

Bezczynność (~70 VCDS °C) → 1 bar
• 1500 obr./min → 2 bary
• 2000 obr./min → 2,2 bara
• 2500 obr./min → 2,6 bara

Jakie powinny być wyniki?

Przyczyną tych odczytów jest to, że po jeździe z dużą prędkością, około 150 km/h, a następnie zwolnieniu do, powiedzmy, 40 km/h, kontrolka ciśnienia oleju miga. Po wyłączeniu silnika lub dodaniu gazu, ciśnienie oleju znika.IMG_2378.webp

IMG_2379.webp

IMG_2380.webp

IMG_2443.webp
 
Witam ponownie, w moim teście okazało się, że czujnik wysokiego ciśnienia oleju i czujnik niskiego ciśnienia oleju otwierają się jednocześnie na biegu jałowym

IMG_2461.webp
 
Back
Top