T6.1 factory aux battery split charge relay upgrade & solar panel install.

r00ps

Member
Hi,

I had the factory fitted aux battery ( under a single seat with swivel base ) fitted to my T6.1 with the intention of using it as a camper leisure battery. After getting less than impressive performance and reading about how the split charge relay is a pretty bad charging method I wanted to upgrade it with a DC-DC charger. after searching around the forum for a bit all I could find was instructions for installing from scratch and not much about upgrading an existing factory installation so I thought it would be useful to post my experience!

After reading various posts and looking at the options I decided to use a CTEK D250SE charger. I went with this as it seemed to be a popular choice due to cost, size, simplicity and the option of a solar panel input ( more on that later ). Reading the various posts I saw that it should be pretty much a direct swap for the existing split charge relay but was not sure if I would need any additional cables, connectors etc or how the ignition signal would work.

OK to work. After removing the passenger seat and this was my original installation:


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I disconnected both the main and aux batteries, and removed the split charge relay. This is the large cube with the two fat red leads running to it next to the aux battery.

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My plan was to simply directly replace the relay with the CTEK, however this where I ran into my first speed bump. The terminals on the CTEK are bigger than those on the relay and the factory leads would not fit! After a bit of head scratching and wondering if I would need to cut the cables and add new terminals, I decided to hack it by drilling out the connectors to fit the CTEK. I figured as the charger is limited to 20A this would be fine with the size of the connector even with the bigger hole. I'm more than happy to hear feedback about this course of action of course!

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After this modification, the only additional cable I needed was a negative to run from the CTEK to the aux battery, which I got from ebay for a few quid. I removed the fuse and relay holders from the plastic mount to give me room to work and connected the main cables.

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The next piece of the puzzle was the ignition signal. In the factory installation, this is provided with a small twin core cable to a connector on the split charge relay. I was not 100% sure how this works after reading various posts so I snipped off the connector and tested the voltages with the engine running. For an AGM battery the CTEK needs a chassis ground on the red/black wire and the 'engine running' signal on the red wire. On the factory wiring, I found that the 12v engine run signal was on the black wire and the brown wire was grounded to the chassis so I connected these as appropriate.

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I connected the batteries back and ran a test. All was well, the indicators on the CTEK showed that it was charging the aux battery and the BM2 monitor confirmed this. So, how to mount it all? I decided to cut off the part of the plastic mounting where the old relay was held and attach a small piece of thin plywood to mount the CTEK.

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I attached the CTEK and put everything into place where it all fitted quite nicely.

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Now for the solar panel! Once more on ebay, I bought a cable with ring connectors to fit the CTEK terminals one end and a small Anderson connector on the other. I attached this to the appropriate terminals on the CTEK and placed the connector so it was acessible from under the front seat.

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For the panel, I didn't want a permanent panel on the roof so decided to go with a 120w flexible, portable panel from Renology. I attach this to the roof via the mounting holes provided on the panel with some 40mm pot magnets and some thumb screws, again from ebay. This makes a very neat solution that works really well and can be removed and stored easily. The cable from the panel runs through the passenger window and under the air deflector to connect under the seat so it doesn't matter if it rains.

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The resulting system now means I can run my fridge and other usual camping loads as much as I like and the CTEK charges the battery during the day from the panel if parked up or from the engine while driving around. Job done and very happy.
 
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Nice neat job and you are well placed to move up to LiFePo as and when the AGM needs replacement. The good news is the CTEK will be a lot kinder to the AGM, just aim to most of the time keep the charge above 50%
 
So long as your widened battery terminals are making good contact and covering the available metal on the charger terminals I think you should be fine. Consider the contact area of the terminal in a blade fuse or relay that 30amps goes through. To me more critical is the cross section of the cables and quality of the crimp so keeping that is what I would have done.
 
Anyone done this on T6? Looking to finally swap my factory second battery to lithium this year. Would the above guide be the same for a T6 model? Cheers.
 
The T6 isn't hugely different here, the underseat fusebox/relay frame is organised a bit differently so may not cut down as cleanly but there's likely a way.

This guide though is more keeping the AGM with it's factory distribution terminal/fusebox arrangement and swapping the relay for a CTEK.

If you are going LiFePo then a lot of the physical things will be different:
  • LiFePo for the same capacity is going to be smaller, so you'll need to think about mounting
  • The CTEK is not bad charger but if you are going direct to LiFePo then the Renogy DC50 downrated or the new Victron Orion XS are likely better choices
  • You will have to build some form of distribution board to replace the one that mounts on the AGM battery terminal, it's unlikely a LiFePo will have the same terminal type.
The good news is lots of folks have done it so if you start a thread you'll get lots of advice/opinions (maybe too many but that's the way of a forum!)
 
Anyone done this on T6? Looking to finally swap my factory second battery to lithium this year. Would the above guide be the same for a T6 model? Cheers.
i done it here: -

in the T6 OEM, you get a "100A small 4pin relay" and a "80A Maxi fuse". . . . . the T6.1 setup comes with a much better relay setup.

i ended up fitting SB50 Anderson connectors for quick swapping out chargers etc. . . . . but to copy the above, just hardwire the OEM feeds direct to your DC-DC charger.







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