T6.1 Alpine 16.5cm Speaker Set with Sub & Amp

gringo

Member
Hi,

I've installed the Alpine SPS-106T61 speaker kit and have been running it for a good few months now. Whilst doing the install I also sound deadened the doors and inside of the cards (see pics below). However I'm finding that the treble is really bright and I have to dial down the equaliser on the head unit (Highline T6.1 2021 model) to -8/-7 to calm things down. Has anyone else experienced this? I contacted Alpine and received reply pasted to bottom of this post. I also think the door speakers could do with a bit more "oomph" for want of a better description.

Bearing this in mind would fitting the SPC-D84AT6 Amp + Sub package help matters and improve the sound? Just wondered if anyone else had experience of this amp/sub package?

Thanks in advance

cheers

Ronnie

Alpine reply to tweeter query:
Thank you for your patience and sorry for the delay in replying to you. I have installed a set of these speakers into our demo van and I have also spoken to the sound engineer in Germany involved in the assessment of the speakers.
He has shared the RTA (sound curve) of the tweeters with me, they have a natural peak at around 12khz. This is quite normal for speakers to have various peaks, no speaker will have a perfect flat sound response. Outside of this peak at 12khz the rest of the freq response is good from the tweeter. The graph below is taken from the RTA of the tweeters.
1668775319385.png
Also we all have different acoustic requirements in a sound and add to that all of our hearing is different. Some like a high treble where others, me and by the sounds of it yourself too don’t like high treble.
The best way to deal to reduce this peak is by using the treble adjustment on the radio, this is an EQ and it helps to just reduce the peak frequency, this being 12khz in this case. If you using a general gain reduction such as a -3db reducer on the tweeter then it will affect all of the tweeter sound frequency range, it will not reduce just this peak at 12khz, in fact you will still have the peak compared to the rest of the freq range, it will just be lower volume output from the tweeter.
I hope this information helps.
Regards
Carl Bridgwood
Team Leader, Automotive Solutions and Sound Development


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Yes the alpine speakers on their own are not that great to be honest, most purchase them purely for the grills, tweeters are harsh .. but the Alpine sub/dsp amp does certainly improve them, raises the stage and takes the edge of

However , my opinion they speakers shouldn’t sound hard out of the box and require them to be heavily EQ’d to Get them sounding ok’ish
 
They're spot on. With what they're saying a -3db drop is half the volume. The tweeters aren't exactly at a fantastic angle from factory and as Jason says they're not the best out the box. I tend to prefer the Audison Prima range. That said I've heard worse speakers.

A few things to check. Have you got the polarity correct on the door speakers and tweeters. If not, you may have significant midbass cancellation that makes it seem as if there is hardly any midbass and the system overall is "bright".

I know you haven't got one yet but for others looking for guidance in the future. Without a subwoofer playing, try using the head unit's "Balance" control set to full right or full left and see if the midbass increases. If so, check the speaker wiring at all connections to make sure the polarity is consistent...all of the (+) connected to (+), and all of the (-) connected to (-).

The factory cabling should be:
Blue/Red - Front Left +
Blue/Brown - Front Right -
Red/White - Front Right +
Red/Brown - Front Right -

Let me know how you get on buddy
Cheers
Chris
 
Hi,

@Absolut5 & @Dav-Tec many thanks for your advice - great info. I'll remove door cards and a-pillars over next couple of days to check the wiring is correct and that I've not muddled that up. Will post back once I've investigated further

Cheers

Ronnie
 
Hi,

@Absolut5 & @Dav-Tec many thanks for your advice - great info. I'll remove door cards and a-pillars over next couple of days to check the wiring is correct and that I've not muddled that up. Will post back once I've investigated further

Cheers

Ronnie
No problems we are both always around
 
Any audio guys @Absolut5 @Dav-Tec could throw a bit of light on this.
I received my alpine SPC-D84AT6 sub kit for my T6.1 with factory head unit.
I noticed on the outer box the label was SPC-D84AT6 and at the end there was a - R with white tape put over it, after opening up I noticed the amp as a - R on the end of the code.
The - R is for a non factory head unit.
The wiring harness seems the correct one for factory head unit.
I contacted the retailer and said I think you have sent me the wrong one.
They said it was the right one and alpine set it up in the factory and put on the SPC-D84AT6 code.
Just a bit unsure why they would cover the - R up and not just use a new label.

IMG_20221228_105308.jpg

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We do not install these R setups.

but it looks like it will fit ok, just do not use the rca to Iso adapter part
 
I don't have the rca part, it has the correct loom, it's just the - R that was making me question it.
Thanks for your help.
 
In that case it be fine
I have Got The -R version but i have an oem t6.1 radio
Alpine Denmark says there is no difference In The dsp software, Can That be correct? They have not recoded The dsp. But just says it is The same
 
I have Got The -R version but i have an oem t6.1 radio
Alpine Denmark says there is no difference In The dsp software, Can That be correct? They have not recoded The dsp. But just says it is The same
Do you have the correct wiring loom?
The - R has a different wiring loom for aftermarket head units and this will not fit oem units.
 
Hi peeps.

I have recently had the Alpine door, tweeters and sub under seat fitted. All sounds amazing apart for a slight crackling from the tweeters when i decide to blast the speakers vocal sounds are playing.
I have adjusted the equaliser on the head unit. As the system is running the Alpine DSP amp do i need to adjust the equaliser on the head unit or just keep them set at 0
The head unit is the VW factory fitted normal unit, not the discovery pro.

Thank you so much guys and girls
 
Keep it at zero and let the DSP do the work. Crackling is either a loose connection or distortion. Is it coming from one tweeter or both?
 
Keep it at zero and let the DSP do the work. Crackling is either a loose connection or distortion. Is it coming from one tweeter or both?
Thank you, i will change the settings all back to 0.

The crackling was from both so more than likely distortion as he treble is turned up mid way. Will give it a go later on.

Thank you
 
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