Stop/start...regen...smart Alternator... Dc-dc Charger For Leisure Battery Or Not?
- Thread starter Dellmassive
- Start date
You mean the Smartpass 120? Certainly could be used to power those too (up to 120A continuous, 350A for 10 sec). However, would be meaningful/different only when they are used when engine off. When engine is running it just feeds the output directly from alternator so no different then.
Ignition Live Under Passenger Seat - How Its Done -
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Post a pic of your wires, and well see what you have.
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Thanks for help.
Still don't understand why the renogy needs the IGN signal when clearly says in the manual that it will stop charging the Leisure battery when voltage from alternator drops bellow 12.7V and it will start charging when voltage from alternator goes over 13.2V .
What does the IGN sw apart from turning off charging when the engine is off. In my head this won't help considering the charger won't drain the starter battery.
Still don't understand why the renogy needs the IGN signal when clearly says in the manual that it will stop charging the Leisure battery when voltage from alternator drops bellow 12.7V and it will start charging when voltage from alternator goes over 13.2V .
What does the IGN sw apart from turning off charging when the engine is off. In my head this won't help considering the charger won't drain the starter battery.
Will be interested in replies as I have a Sterling charger and I have just left it on the default settings (similar to above) and not connected to ign live and it seems to work fine.
You can leave it in AUTO mode if you like, but thats designed for traditional Alternators . . . . . . NOT Euro6 alternators/mode.
Euro6 mode has the alternator freewheeling mostly and bulk charges the battery under regen breaking . . . . . . Net result is a leisure battery that wont charge properly...
The IGN feed is on the Renogy and all other DC-DC units to enable/disable the charging function when the engine is running.....
Thanks so much, you have explained that perfectly and much appreciated. I did wonder why on some journeys the leisure battery was not always charged to max and others it was.......
That's what I like to believe. But it makes no sense . Sorry but being an engineer I try to find a proper explanation on how it works . If the unit is triggered by voltage and starts charging when detects 13.2V that means it can detect when the alternator is charging so it does the same thing(without IGN signal). Also the IGN wire will provide +12v as long as the engine is on and if let's say it behaves based on the IGN voltage which is same as the input voltage then still not making any difference .
The only thing that makes sense in my head is having the IGN signal probably it won't Disconnect at 12.6V if the engine is ON and forcing the alternator to kick in when the starter battery is draining bellow a preset voltage ( surely the ECU knows when to keep the alternator on to avoid battery drain). But then this doesn't mean the MPG will go down and all the BlueMotion system is compromised??
I'm using my own built LiFePo4 150A pack that can charge very quick if it gets 50A so not having a Lead battery I don't think I will have nay issues relying on the BlueMotion charge algorithm.
That's effectively how it works....
The battery voltage will drop below 12.6v but the dc-dc will stay charging using internal boost converter to raise the voltage to 13.8 or above.
This draws current which is detected by the sensor on the neg pole of the Starter battery, which intern will raise the alternator output voltage...........
If you have Lifepo4, they will charge at the max rate of your charger..... so upto 50A with the Renogy.
Have a look at some of the voltage charging charts on page 1 of this thread.... it shows the voltage swings and regens..
Stop/start...regen...smart Alternator... Dc-dc Charger For Leisure Battery Or Not?
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That makes sense now. In this case I will prefer not to use the IGN signal and let the Blue Motion to work as it should. Having a large battery and no high drain appliances in the van I rely mostly on solar panel when stationary so the minimum charge that I get from the smart alternator should be ok to top up the battery while driving.
Thanks for help.
Thanks for help.
Using the IGN signal just means you are telling the DC-DC convertor that it can charge the leisure battery if it wants to. If the leisure battery is full, then it will not charge it, and will not draw current, and it effectively becomes invisible to the ECU controlling the regenerative alternator function.
Our Ablemail convertor uses input voltage sensing to decide when to charge - seems to work fine for us.
Pete
So I've just to sorting out the charging side n my van. When i bought it i spotted a stirling bbw12120 under the seat.
I have read the manual and its currently set up like this
but based on reading this i think i should change it to this:
any advice, pros/cons etc? Cheers
I have read the manual and its currently set up like thisbut based on reading this i think i should change it to this:
any advice, pros/cons etc? Cheers
Hi anyone know what this is connected to the starter battery? Bottom of image.
It looks like some kind of solenoid?
The cable running to it from the starter has a 200amp fuse which doesn't seem enough for the cable size.
The cable running out of it splits into 2...
Anyone know where the 2 cables go? Presume 1 goes into the passenger for the leisure battery.
The van does have anderson connectors at each bumper so wondered if it was that aswell?
I have a t32 ex AA with a leisure battery under passenger seat which has a relay & 80amp fuse.
At the moment I have cut off the relay under the passenger seat and am using it with a 70amp fuse going into my ctek 250se (dc-dc).
The ctek is working and is getting a feed when engine is on. Victron energy monitor is telling me its pumping out about 12amps which engine idling.
At some point soon I will upgrade the cabling to super thick stuff coupled with 300amp fuses so I can add in the smartpass120.
For the moment I couldn't find the actual rating for the cable VW supply fitted. So I presume 70amps fuse should be safe.
Cheers
It looks like some kind of solenoid?
The cable running to it from the starter has a 200amp fuse which doesn't seem enough for the cable size.
The cable running out of it splits into 2...
Anyone know where the 2 cables go? Presume 1 goes into the passenger for the leisure battery.
The van does have anderson connectors at each bumper so wondered if it was that aswell?
I have a t32 ex AA with a leisure battery under passenger seat which has a relay & 80amp fuse.
At the moment I have cut off the relay under the passenger seat and am using it with a 70amp fuse going into my ctek 250se (dc-dc).
The ctek is working and is getting a feed when engine is on. Victron energy monitor is telling me its pumping out about 12amps which engine idling.
At some point soon I will upgrade the cabling to super thick stuff coupled with 300amp fuses so I can add in the smartpass120.
For the moment I couldn't find the actual rating for the cable VW supply fitted. So I presume 70amps fuse should be safe.
Cheers
Probably for the jump start Anderson connectors. You should be fusing the supply to the Ctek at 30 amps, not 70. The Ctek internal protection is non existent so best not to take chances with it.
