Going to cover as much area as possible but not confident about stripping out the front cab floor as I have a leisure battery under my drivers seat.
[Guide] Sound Deadening and Insulation -- How To Do It --
- Thread starter Dellmassive
- Start date
I’ve just opened up my vans lining and found it’s partially done 
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can I ask anyone’s opinion, would you cut away the saggy carpet areas and patch around the sound deadening and then insulate, or remove all thats in there and start again. Nothing in the sliding doors so they need full treatment.
thanks in advance...
....can I ask anyone’s opinion, would you cut away the saggy carpet areas and patch around the sound deadening and then insulate, or remove all thats in there and start again. Nothing in the sliding doors so they need full treatment.
thanks in advance...
In fairness the sound deadening that's there isn't necessarily inadequate. The mass damping effect of the butyl/bitumen mats that you have is only really required in the centre of large flat areas. It isn't as effective at the edge of panels and around formed shapes which naturally reduce the panting effect/resonance of the metal. You can certainly add to it but what is there, assuming a similar approach has been taken throughout, will have made a difference.
Just used new Dodo deadmat or o. Found it very workable. Have about 5 left out of 90. Have in a lot of gaps wouldn’t normally as well plus under side step. Prob need another if do front doors.
www.dodomat.com
Dodo Mat DEADN PRO Black 40 Sheets
Dodo Mat DEADN PRO is a premium 2mm sound deadening product developed in the UK in collaboration with many leading van conversion companies. Designed to give you the performance , flexibility and quality you need for your next van project.... All deadening mats are not created equally. DEADN...
www.dodomat.com
I've bought 2x bulkpacks of 2mm Silent Coat. My plan is to do both cab and rear floor for SWB T6. I assume this is enough (7.5m²)?
Whilst I strip everything out, I want to leave a cable from front to u/s of drivers seat for future leisure battery install. Any suggestions or tips here would be gratefully recieved.
Whilst I strip everything out, I want to leave a cable from front to u/s of drivers seat for future leisure battery install. Any suggestions or tips here would be gratefully recieved.
I have to put a big shout out to Sound Deadening Shop - Car Van & 4x4 Automotive Sound Proofing for delivering the extra today when i ordered it yesterday during lockdown. I'll be confident to buy the rest of my supplies from these people as I work my way through the rest of the van.
I know u guys like pictures. So Im uploading all so far. Im a tad knackered atm but here is a before and after strip. No breakages, but several cuts to fingers. But I've 10 of those, so I can afford to lose a few. The sides and roof were carpeted when I got it. But peeling up I note no deadening on rear wheel arch. Hmm, If I peel it back, I wonder if I can just re glue it down after I deaden those too. Whats 2mm between friends. Besides, Its stretchy. I suspect the sides have not been done to my standard either, so Im going to have to junk the carpeting and redo it all after I've done the floor. Plus I wish to add thermal insulation. I remember all too well freezing my nuts off in our old T2. Having the stove on and it basically raining inside. I intend to deaden every inch of floor I can weasel. But for now, Im having crumpets and a coffee and a rest. Probs a wee toke too, just for medicine.
Oh and I haven't figured out how to get the lower dash off yet. I done all the rear black trim bits underneath it inc the front bit that hides an ecu.
Oh and I haven't figured out how to get the lower dash off yet. I done all the rear black trim bits underneath it inc the front bit that hides an ecu.
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Top tip - wear sunglasses whilst installing Silent Coat in sunshine. Cab nearly done. My thats fiddly. I stuck it up the front firewall as far as I could humanly. Careful round all the earths to leave no sticky residue on threads etc. Earthing points are a pathway to misery and Im taking no chances.
My fingers hurt. Boohoo. They've got cuts, slices, abrasions and several plaster now. If I sit on one of the seat bottom mounts one more time, it'll be a butt plug.
That silver alu tape is handy for hiding creative differences. Buy a roll too when anyone does theirs.
That silver alu tape is handy for hiding creative differences. Buy a roll too when anyone does theirs.
Yes, I have done those two bits on side just above front arch. Twas this pic that reminded me. I have to rebuild all the front stuff back in before i do the rear as I need the van on monday and some seats would be nice. I used 1 box of Silent Coat less 6 sheets. I used all my extraneous cut off bits to do passenger footwell and then hid the crazy paving look with some alu tape. I'll probably end up doing the rear arches as i think I'll have plenty left. I have 2 boxes left, so that and doors no problemo methinks.
Looking good.
I used 2 boxes of dodo pro hex and did sides, arches, rear doors ,side step,and roof thoroughly.
Need another box to do front but leaving that for a project itself as be pulling everything up when I do a split charge etc...
How do the front step protectors come out ? Pull up or towards?
I used 2 boxes of dodo pro hex and did sides, arches, rear doors ,side step,and roof thoroughly.
Need another box to do front but leaving that for a project itself as be pulling everything up when I do a split charge etc...
How do the front step protectors come out ? Pull up or towards?
I pulled up holding the centre top lip at back, I used a trim tool to ease the edge along then it popped. Surprisingly easy. Most comes off reasonably easy as long as your gentle. Gentle tugs reveal fixings. I just hope I can remember how to put it all back.
Theres a vertical tongue centre of the upstand bit which slides into a groove, so up and out for the door steps. The sliding door footwell trim has plastic pop rivets things, I advise leaving the white ones on the upstand inplace (ie plug them into the holes in the footwell and sliding them into their locator on the plastic step trim during install. The black ones on the bottom should be put into the trim before installing.
I had to get my head down to finish up due to the wind yesterday, so forgot to take pics. The trees by mine were dropping so many seeds and buds n things that as fast as i could hoover them, more filled up my van. But, the entire floor pan is done. Took me three days. One day to remove everything carefully, A day and a half to fit the silent coat and half a day to refit everything. I reckon I could knock a day of that now. One box for cab, One box for rear. I have 1/4 box left plus a spare box I bought as I panicked. I'll do all doors with that one and the rear arches.
Things I wished I had? Box of plasters. You'll need em. My fingers feel like I've been stroking porcupines.
DO NOT TURN ON IGNITION WHILST SEATS ARE OFF. Blasted airbag warning. Doh! My first job done on way to campering the bus, im happy. She feels like my bus now.
I had to get my head down to finish up due to the wind yesterday, so forgot to take pics. The trees by mine were dropping so many seeds and buds n things that as fast as i could hoover them, more filled up my van. But, the entire floor pan is done. Took me three days. One day to remove everything carefully, A day and a half to fit the silent coat and half a day to refit everything. I reckon I could knock a day of that now. One box for cab, One box for rear. I have 1/4 box left plus a spare box I bought as I panicked. I'll do all doors with that one and the rear arches.
Things I wished I had? Box of plasters. You'll need em. My fingers feel like I've been stroking porcupines.
DO NOT TURN ON IGNITION WHILST SEATS ARE OFF. Blasted airbag warning. Doh! My first job done on way to campering the bus, im happy. She feels like my bus now.
Cool thanks for info.
Yeah my hands were battered after doing the rear.
I just have some Dodo Superliner for the rear floor. Wasnt going to add silentcoat/hex.
Not sure if just doing a bit is worth it and have much effect.
Just need to get some batons made up as don't have a jigsaw/circ saw.
Have managed to get ply panels sourced now but still need to source a single piece floor.
Yeah my hands were battered after doing the rear.
I just have some Dodo Superliner for the rear floor. Wasnt going to add silentcoat/hex.
Not sure if just doing a bit is worth it and have much effect.
Just need to get some batons made up as don't have a jigsaw/circ saw.
Have managed to get ply panels sourced now but still need to source a single piece floor.
@bootsam , How many sheets did it take to do the floor area like this. I have managed to do all the rear panels and tailgate, which has made a massive improvement but i think i need to carry on as you have done here.
Many thanks,
Hi, I didnt count sheets. But I had 6 sheets left over doing the cab from a boxful and I had about 10-14 sheets left after doing the rear, again from a boxful. So I've a quarter or so of a whole box left from the two boxes I used. If you can make sense from that. The steps make useful places to use up all the extraneous bits of cut offs to help save sheets.
Take your time, its harder work than you think. I fell asleep at my desk monday after lunch. Im not 20 anymore.
On the Airbag ECU and earthing points, put the dome nuts back on too. Use the trim tool fork that looks like a crow bar to push the mat down over them and then trim with stanley. This keeps the earth points clean of sticky foamy residue. This is another thing I figured out after having to clean my first one up afterwards. Damn thats some sticky goo.
Take your time, its harder work than you think. I fell asleep at my desk monday after lunch. Im not 20 anymore.
On the Airbag ECU and earthing points, put the dome nuts back on too. Use the trim tool fork that looks like a crow bar to push the mat down over them and then trim with stanley. This keeps the earth points clean of sticky foamy residue. This is another thing I figured out after having to clean my first one up afterwards. Damn thats some sticky goo.
Those clips for the door trim are spiteful little b______s...I broke 2, previous owner broke another 3. So I distributed them evenly between doors. Need to buy some more. I advise buying some before you do take em off.
Both doors and tailgate have been done. 2 sheets each top n bottom per door. Plus 1 sheet of dodo foam behind speaker. I also use cuts offs on door trim and 1/2 sheet of format as there was some padding there already. Speakers (OEM) sound much better. I also fitted that sounds like golf door seal, what a difference. Doddle to fit.
Both doors and tailgate have been done. 2 sheets each top n bottom per door. Plus 1 sheet of dodo foam behind speaker. I also use cuts offs on door trim and 1/2 sheet of format as there was some padding there already. Speakers (OEM) sound much better. I also fitted that sounds like golf door seal, what a difference. Doddle to fit.
