Solar Charge System Advice

8balladdict

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Hi all,

Quick questions. I have an CTEK D250SA which as I understand it, has a MTTP regulator built in to its solar input.

If I want to install a 160W solar panel, do I need a separate solar controller?

And if not, is there some way of monitoring the solar panel to check the output, temperature etc of the panel.

Cheers all.
 
Hi all,

Quick questions. I have an CTEK D250SA which as I understand it, has a MTTP regulator built in to its solar input.

If I want to install a 160W solar panel, do I need a separate solar controller?

And if not, is there some way of monitoring the solar panel to check the output, temperature etc of the panel.

Cheers all.
Hi @8balladdict …. I’ve the same Ctek….we ran the cables from the Ctek to bonnet area with an Anderson plug …and simply connect the solar ( that’s if it’s mobile ) …Or if vehicle based run the the cables for a permanent connection
You don’t need a separate regulator ..

we fitted a Victron battery stunt that gives you input data ( but not temp )

 
On the solar spec, you need to check the VOC of the 160w panel.

The ctek has a max solar input of 23v.

If the VOC of the panel is higher you need to use a seperate solar controller.


...


.


.
 
Thanks for the info. This is the spec of my solar panel….

Solar panel specifications:
Peak power: 160W
Maximum power voltage: 20.2V
Maximum power current: 7.92A
Open circuit voltage: 23.9V
Short circuit current: 8.40A
Power allowance range: +/- 5%
Solar Panel Dimensions: 1380 x 665 x 4 mm
Weight: 5.75 kg

Is it the max power voltage or the open circuit voltage that I need to look at?
 
VOC. Is voltage open circuit.

That panel is: Open circuit voltage: 23.9V

So overpowered for the ctek d250,

Easy fix though, just run a separate mppt controller alongside the ctek.
 
VOC. Is voltage open circuit.

That panel is: Open circuit voltage: 23.9V

So overpowered for the ctek d250,

Easy fix though, just run a separate mppt controller alongside the ctek.
Thanks for your help @Dellmassive.

Just two other questions…. If I connect in a Victron SmartSolar, should I connect the output of that straight to the leisure battery or still through the ctek?

And is the Victron 75/15 MTTP the right size to go for given the panel I have?
 
What he said.

Direct to the battery.

And remember to fuse all battery connections.
 
Definitely.

Right next to the battery.

Follow the install guide, decent gauge cable and fuse.

The max power from that panel is around 10A so I'd go around a 15A fuse. (Assuming your not using the load output on the mppt)
 
Others have posted the best solution - a new mppt charger

If you want a cheap solution, you could fit 2 standard diodes in series to lower the VOC

Of course you’ll loose some efficiency, and the diodes may need a heat sink
 
Just jumping in on the back of this thread as just installed a 75/15. If anyone has any advice on the pin set up (under the 20a. Fuse) the manual says you can bridge pins and I am not sure if I need to alter anything. It’s a 180w solar panel going to Mppt and then to leisure battery (not lithium). Not connected to anything else. Thanks
Darren

A79748C0-3FB8-47FE-B739-E8B20FBED5E6.png
 
Just jumping in on the back of this thread as just installed a 75/15. If anyone has any advice on the pin set up (under the 20a. Fuse) the manual says you can bridge pins and I am not sure if I need to alter anything. It’s a 180w solar panel going to Mppt and then to leisure battery (not lithium). Not connected to anything else. Thanks
Darren

View attachment 191640
do you have the Bluetooth version?
 
If it’s the SmartSolar one with Bluetooth, just remove the jumper and configure it in the app.
 
Follow up question if the OP doesn't mind.

@Dellmassive I have a Renogy solar suitcase (200W) which comespre wired through the controller. Now I have a leisure battery charging from the vehicle engine through a Renogy DCC50 I can just bypass the built in controller on the panels and hook up into the DCC50?

Thanks, Dave C
 
Follow up question if the OP doesn't mind.

@Dellmassive I have a Renogy solar suitcase (200W) which comespre wired through the controller. Now I have a leisure battery charging from the vehicle engine through a Renogy DCC50 I can just bypass the built in controller on the panels and hook up into the DCC50?

Thanks, Dave C
yes you can do that . . . . .

just make up a MC4 link cable set and connect to the DCC50 - then run an extension MC4-MC4 out to the panels - Then connect to the panels MC4


.................



or you can just use the included Renogy controller alongside the DCC50 - just connect a fused quick disconect cable to the leisure battery - then connect to the Renogy solar controller.


++++++


or you can connect the Renogy set to the starter battery . . . then rely of the DCC50 auto switching on when the starter voltage rises - which will offer some charge to both batterys.

+++++++


If leisure battery is the priority - then connect to that.

+++

more info:




******************************************************************

SOLAR:

My Panels:




*****************************************************

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If it’s the SmartSolar one with Bluetooth, just remove the jumper and configure it in the app.
Thanks and the manual is overly complicated and doesn’t really explain things. I will just take it out as you have suggested and then navigate my way through the configuration on the app. I had just assumed that the actual unit was plug and play and didn’t need adjusting.
Darren
 
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