Severed wire on front break pad wear sensor

Got around to doing mine. . . . . . .

it was way to much hassle to do the while loom swap,

it would have been battery and tray out, ABS loom and plug to open up, Ebox to open up. . . . . . something i just didnt want to deal with.


so i decided it was easiest for me to just replace the last 6inch section of loom.

i done the job as part of a pads & discs swap over here:



this is what i had left of the front brake pad sensor. . .

the hole socket on the van side was missing, and the cable showed signs of rubbing and wear,

so that section needed to be replaced.


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i had the whole new loom to play with as above. . .

i unclipped the flexy cover ends and removed the split cover.


i stripped the cable on the van back to see what i had.. . .


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using the flexi pipe as a size measure, i cut the opposite side off the new loom. . .

then cut back the van side wires making sure to stagger them.

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i done the same with the new loom making sure to stagger them in the opposite way. .


then got some small heat shrink for the red and yellow cores,

and some larger heat shrink for the larger wire.


joining them together like this. . .

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next i soldered the red & yellow wires together.

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then set the black heatshrink on each core first, then the red over the top. ( this heat shrink is the glued type, so hoping to help prevent water ingress)

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i then added an additional layer of black electrical tape - again to aid the prevention of water getting in.

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then reassembled the split tubing and end caps. . .

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looks OEM now , . . .

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and to make sure the same thing doesnt happed again i cable tied the plug into its bracket - no chance if it coming out now.

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jobs a goodun.

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the result was immediate. . .


with the new pads fitted the orange pad warning light went out on the first key-on.


happy days.




time will only tell now how long this repair will last. . . . im hoping for numerous years at least.


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incase anyone wanted to know. . . .

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One thing to watch splicing like that is if you get flex of the copper where it goes into the solder from vibration it can work harden and snap, especially when it bends back on itself.

Using the glue heatshrink helps as it's much stiffer, but it can also cause work hardening at the end due to that - I've lost a number of microphone cables and antennas I tried to reinforce with glued heat shrink down to that.

I'd be tempted to use normal heatshrink as the final layer and make sure it extends a bit beyond the splices, then it will act as a cable strain relief.

When I splice now I tend to not twist the copper strands but let them fan out a bit and push the two ends together so they intertwine, then smooth them down. Using some no clean liquid flux is a game changer too, a drop of that on to soak into the strands and a well wetted soldering iron the solder will wick deep into the strands. It says no clean because it won't corrode the metal like an acid flux, still worth a good wipe with alcohol to get rid of residue before doing the heat shrink.


 
Mine has broke on the female (Van) side connector, any one know where and what is the exact tool to remove the pins from the plug, or is there a trick to get them out without buying the little tools.
 
pull out the pink locking tab with a pick. . .

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....

then insert the de-pin tool from the front . . . to press in the barbs. . .

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these are the barbs . . .

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then pull the wire out from the back. . .


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...


. .


refitting is the same in reverse. .
 
an example of plug de-pinning over here . .





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