Rigid solar panel installation

Hi , will the brackets only fit panels of a certain thickness ? It doesn't say on their website. My panel is 35mm thick.
The panels that are supplied with the brackets are 30mm. But I’ve seen other makes of similar brackets marketed as “universal”.
 
I used those mounts to add a rigid panel to my touring caravan last year.
As you can see, I glued them down and also bolted the leading edge down and added wire ties for good measure! Can’t be too careful.
It went up and down the M5 at 65mph with no bother.
View attachment 143917

View attachment 143918
View attachment 143919
I've decided im going to follow your method, sikaflex and also bolt down through the roof. I contacted the company who made my poptop today, they said they wouldn't recommend drilling them down & sikaflex will be fine. Will they say that in court though after my panel has flown off and injured someone, I think not !
Sikaflex and a bolt in each bracket it is for me.
 
I've decided im going to follow your method, sikaflex and also bolt down through the roof. I contacted the company who made my poptop today, they said they wouldn't recommend drilling them down & sikaflex will be fine. Will they say that in court though after my panel has flown off and injured someone, I think not !
Sikaflex and a bolt in each bracket it is for me.
I agree, belt and braces! I also used large penny washers under the nuts on the inside to spread the load.
I also put sikaflex on the inside to add further strength and to waterproof the hole.
 
I agree, belt and braces! I also used large penny washers under the nuts on the inside to spread the load.
I also put sikaflex on the inside to add further strength and to waterproof the hole.
I like the sound of that, it's a bit daunting drilling holes in my pop top but safety first.
 
We fit alot of flexible solar panels, but we leave a 4-5mm air gap to allow heat to escape. This is definitely important !
The slim panel together with a underside junction box gives a very neat insulation. We have had customers tour Spain and similar hot countries in summer months with no issues.
If the worst does happen it can be removed in a similar way to a window removal and cut away from the body.

Screenshot_20220131-202122_Facebook.jpg
 
We fit alot of flexible solar panels, but we leave a 4-5mm air gap to allow heat to escape. This is definitely important !
The slim panel together with a underside junction box gives a very neat insulation. We have had customers tour Spain and similar hot countries in summer months with no issues.
If the worst does happen it can be removed in a similar way to a window removal and cut away from the body.

View attachment 144291
Hi , mine is a rigid solar panel, not a flexi
 
To be honest, if you prep the surface well, sand the plastic bracket a bit where you apply the adhesive, use meths to clean, sika primer and sika 521-522, with a minimum 2mm bed, it will be as strong as the paint you glue to, and no bolts needed. However, if the paint fails, so the adhesive glued to it. This has never happened that I know of. The ultimate decision is yours.
 
To be honest, if you prep the surface well, sand the plastic bracket a bit where you apply the adhesive, use meths to clean, sika primer and sika 521-522, with a minimum 2mm bed, it will be as strong as the paint you glue to, and no bolts needed. However, if the paint fails, so the adhesive glued to it. This has never happened that I know of. The ultimate decision is yours.
Hi , I've bought sikaflex 252 , will that be ok and is the primer essential?
 
I know the primer is recommended by sika to achieve full bond strength. Personally, I would use it, in the same manner as we use it when we bond windows. The 252 should be plenty strong.
 
This is the sika 206 primer
Ah yes, i remember spending over £30 on the stuff when i fit our reimo awning rail. I barely used any and all the rest went to waste as it has a limited shelf life once opened.
 
Back
Top