Quick C-TEK DS250e QUESTION

[dubLU]

Hello. Still trying to get my C-TEK DS250se to charge my lithium leisure battery via the alternator. Reading the manual again I noticed in the intro paragraph that

• The D250SE is a DC to DC battery charger for a dual battery system with a starter battery and a service battery. • The D250SE charges the service battery either from an alternator or from a solar panel, or from a combination of both. • The D250SE separates the batteries in a dual battery system and thereby replaces, for example, a separation relay, VSR (Voltage Sensitive Relay), diode isolator or a mechanical battery selector. • The D250SE can be used on its own or in combination with SMARTPASS 120S. In combination, the D250SE and SMARTPASS 120S can charge at up to 140A. • Starter battery is only available as lead-acid battery.

Does this last staement mean I MUST have a lead-acid starter battery for the ctek to be able to facilitate a dc-dc charge?

 

[Jim Rey]

I doubt whether there are many starter batteries that are not Lead acid. The CTEK will trickle charge the starter battery once the service (leisure battery) is fully charged but does it via the A+ IN connector. I have the D250SA which allows me to charge AGM batteries by connnecting the thin black wire from the CTEK250SA to earth . My van starter battery is Lead acid so the CTEK250SA is catering, in my case, for both AGM (leisure) and Lead Acid (starter)

 

[Dellmassive]

Hello. Still trying to get my C-TEK DS250se to charge my lithium leisure battery via the alternator. Reading the manual again I noticed in the intro paragraph that

• The D250SE is a DC to DC battery charger for a dual battery system with a starter battery and a service battery. • The D250SE charges the service battery either from an alternator or from a solar panel, or from a combination of both. • The D250SE separates the batteries in a dual battery system and thereby replaces, for example, a separation relay, VSR (Voltage Sensitive Relay), diode isolator or a mechanical battery selector. • The D250SE can be used on its own or in combination with SMARTPASS 120S. In combination, the D250SE and SMARTPASS 120S can charge at up to 140A. • Starter battery is only available as lead-acid battery.

Does this last staement mean I MUST have a lead-acid starter battery for the ctek to be able to facilitate a dc-dc charge?

the factory AGM / EFB+ battery IS a SLA / Standard Lead Acid Battery - so the CTEK d250 is suitable.

 

[dubLU]

Its spring again and time to stare at my ctek 250se again. As my LB is lithium do i just connect the battery select cable it to my LB positive or should it go to an always live feed via the fuse board or just connect it to the 12v in off the starter battery? Thanks.

 

[dubLU]

Well the red black wire goes to LB positive so +12v signal lithium battery.
My ongoing saga with the alternator not kicking in has been resolved. I had seen too many images of the internal 30amp fuses blown with clear burn / scorch damage, so when I finally managed to get my d250se out and look inside I gave it a clear bill of health based soley on the absence of burning / scorching. . Bad mistake and not the first time I've given myself ball ache by not checking fuses properly.
Following a lead from another forum a blown fuse was there.....

 

[dubLU]

The image above isn't my unit. The body of the fuse is easy to clip and slice away leaving the two legs in-situ which can accept spade connectors, so a short flying lead with a new fuse on one end and spade connectors on the other means a non-soldering fuse replacement can be made.



Top left you can see the now exposed fuse legs. My alternator now kicks in fine.

However the unit still doesn't want the charge my battery beyond 85%. If anyone knows a possible explanation for this please let me know.
I've also replaced the 30amp midi-fuse from (and at) the starter battery with a 25amp one, hopefully that will blow before the fuse inside the unit, and being easy to replace it seems a no brainer.