Oil radiator installation. Possible troubleshooting solutions?

so CFCA BiTDI owner here. Three years of ownership and past year on a new VW engine by Retro Resus.

I have done a lot of trips to the south of Italy, and the mountains all over France, Switzerland and Italy and I have seen 130 hit very fast in some of these occasions. Most UK driving its 95~115'ish. So I bought a used but never fitted remote oil cooler set from Darkside. Problem is I also have Lazer aux front lights so the std place in front of the rad isnt going to work as there is no room. In the next few weeks I am going to get it in the air and see if I can put it somewhere else.

One point with the Darkside unit is the pipework supplied will need to be unrated I think to custom made items
 
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Is it the Wagner cooler kit with the 600mm wide 9-Row cooler?
You could mount it a little lower where the main aperture in the bumper is?
 
Correct fitment (there is quite some cooler stuff going there), construction and thermal regulation might not be a sure thing with more generic kits. Fitment divers by engine type too.

Having watched the many educational YT vids from Redhead about T-series engine failures, rebuilds and the development of their oil cooler kits, a really good solution is not as simple as it looks. (together with the hundreds of posts on the subject on the German TX forum btw).

The extensive info around their kits is very useful imo (German only > Google Translate)

 
I used safari to translate it to English, the has Siri read the page to me while I was driving. 😇

I’ve ordered all the parts from the list o out together, it works out £100 cheaper than buying a replacement oil filter housing.

The red head kit appears to rely upon the original engine oil thermostat too, I will monitor it intently once fitted.

Also, a by product of removing the EGR and the oil cooler from the cooling system is that it should remove a significant amount of load from the cooling system, which, as we know, is already over worked.

I’m looking forward to getting it all fitted and seeing what difference it makes to the van, maybe some more economy too with everything working at a lower temperature.
 
Ordered the DD kit this morning, its also themostatically operated.... opens at 80 degrees celcius..

its €400 euros in total (i'm outside UK)

I'm towing my caravan on holidays so i dont want 120 degrees plus oil temps for prolonged periods of time when cruising 1500km away from home.
 
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Are there any drawings showing the oil system on the CXEB engine?


T6 Self-Study Programme 564 - The 2.0 litre TDI engine in the T6 - Design and function, chapter "Oil system" has a note:
For more detailed information about the oil system of the EA288 engine series, refer to the Self-Study Programme 514 “The new diesel engine series EA288”.


Unfortunately the SSP 514 is not in Downloads, instead in principle a similar Oil circuit graph can be found in

Link to an external site for SSP 514
 
But isn't the oil entering the engine actually cooled down to 90°C as part of engine coolant circulation in engine oil cooler?

The high numbers reported are the temperatures seen of oil exiting the engine (into oil sump). I would think main contributor is piston cooling as they do get hot under load.
 
Correct fitment (there is quite some cooler stuff going there), construction and thermal regulation might not be a sure thing with more generic kits. Fitment divers by engine type too.

Having watched the many educational YT vids from Redhead about T-series engine failures, rebuilds and the development of their oil cooler kits, a really good solution is not as simple as it looks. (together with the hundreds of posts on the subject on the German TX forum btw).

The extensive info around their kits is very useful imo (German only > Google Translate)

Darkside developments have a lot of experience with the T series and CFCA engine so i think they offer a good kit for the money.

when using a external oil cooler there is some more oil in the system and its being cooled down considerably when (too) hot, cant go wrong with that in summer.

Especially when towing a caravan or boat.
 
Darkside developments have a lot of experience with the T series and CFCA engine so i think they offer a good kit for the money.

when using a external oil cooler there is some more oil in the system and its being cooled down considerably when (too) hot, cant go wrong with that in summer.

Especially when towing a caravan or boat.

Yes I know Darkside. I’ve been following them for years, great bunch. 👍🏻 Their work and products clearly lean towards the (dyno) performance & racing side of the spectrum imo. Their kit should be fine too I reckon.

I’d keep the oil temp always on the MFD and your good. Oil that stays too cold too long is equally bad as too hot.
 
No they don’t. They have their own CNC machined take off unit with a thermostat that is part of the (water) cooling system.

@Cog Head - I had to look it up:


IMG_0021.jpeg

Description (translate from their site)

Completely preconfigured system for self-assembly with pre-bent stainless steel hoses. Pre-drilled and pre-assembled with oil cooler and screwed for easier assembly, incl. all screws and nuts made of stainless steel. Our hose systems have been optimised. They are certified regionally manufactured and are guaranteed up to 30 bar operating pressure and 150° oil temperature. Far more than the mostly unpublished data of our competitors allow.

Our thermostat has now been converted to a full-close system. The thermostat is therefore fully closed until the opening temperature is reached. This makes sense for vans due to their special cooling system and the peculiarities associated with it in winter. What doesn't matter in motorsport doesn't have to be for everyday use. We have realised that in the winter our new construction brings advantages. Our systems are also equipped with a special thermostatic insert, which is above the normal opening temperatures of the competitors. Normal thermostats (actually and usually designed for motorsport vehicles) naturally often open at 75-80 degrees and have a basic aperture of 10-20%. According to our findings, we recommend leaving these temperature zones for today's series engines. The opening temperatures should be increased to support the better degassing of fuel components.

We take this special feature into account in the discipline that is important for VAG engines. If you think according to the 90s motorsport scheme, you are unfortunately usually wrong with modern highly loaded exhaust-oriented engines.
The thermostats are also manufactured for us in Germany.
 
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That looks nice, this is a CFCA engine with the combined EGR cooper and oil filter housing, I have the CXEB engine, with separate EGR and filter housing, my engine also has the plastic cup type oil filter, I’m not sure of a way to convert that to take a pancake/ sandwich plate with integrated thermostat.
I can fit a remote stat and hosing, but that doubles the pipework and fittings in an already overcrowded engine bay.

I’ll get my system running and monitor it intensely through the summer months to see how it behaves, then look to fit a thermostat toward the end of summer / autumn time.
 
That looks nice, this is a CFCA engine with the combined EGR cooper and oil filter housing, I have the CXEB engine, with separate EGR and filter housing, my engine also has the plastic cup type oil filter, I’m not sure of a way to convert that to take a pancake/ sandwich plate with integrated thermostat.
I can fit a remote stat and hosing, but that doubles the pipework and fittings in an already overcrowded engine bay.

I’ll get my system running and monitor it intensely through the summer months to see how it behaves, then look to fit a thermostat toward the end of summer / autumn time.

Got it.
I would monitor intensly indeed. Without a thermostat, and thus the oil cooler always on full, I’d also keep a close eye on the warm up period of the engine as a long(er) warm up isn’t preferable either. The engine gets (way) more fuel during warm up that doesn’t help the oil film in the bores and also find it’s way into the oil itself (and degrading it). Autumn and winter might require the cooler to be covered completely.
 
Agreed!
I’ll also carry a bunch of cable ties and a piece of plastic to place in front of it if it doesn’t work the way it is intended.

Or… do I just buy a remote stat and be done with it?
Closed internal engine circuit will aid engine warming and degassing of excess fuel.
 
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