Well you won’t sleep tonight then as that torque is for a dry thread and you’ll be there days waiting for the sump port to drip dry!
Just heave it up.
Oil change
- Thread starter Mickleen
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Just heave it up.
You do right ... I managed to snap two bolts in the forks on my Ducati last year, before I'd reached the required torque (with my new calibrated torque wrench). Ducati do use shite bolts though, odd 'cos you'd think it a premium brand.
Well pardon me lol.
So , unless you have a freshly calibrated and certified snap on torque angle , torque wrench , ( mine is fondly called excalibar )
Approx 700 quids worth,,,,,,
The 20 pound chinese ebay special special won't be particularly accurate for your OCD.
Head bolts , no guessing , sump bolts , just don't over tighten .
The only risk is stripping the threads ,
Jeez , bet its like that film " sleeping with the enemy "
Better make sure all the labels on the tins of beans in the cupboard face the same angle in relative rotation to the sun , on a Gibbous moon lol
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Note, The manual I have is:
So it may not specifically include your DMZA engine ?
Single use bolts probably, but better they snap when tightening than red lining in top gear.
Exactly, that’s precisely why I have two RS Pro calibrated torque wrenches.
Thanks for the update. Looks like my quest for the setting for the DMZA continues.
Its the same plug
Its interesting how the company that sells them says they're single use and you must buy another!
Id be more worried about the alloy sump than I would about re using a steel pump plug.
I think it is more about the sealing washer than the bolt
I think some part of it comes due to human error in the past..
Say a sump plug has been left loose, causes damage / inconvenience to customer - dealer claims issue with sump plug over human error / dealing with the situation. Over time VW change procedures to certain jobs, like a sump plug needing to be replaced every time. Once upon a time they weren't a 'replace every time part'
I do not find RS Pro tools particularly good BTW. They are the own brand of RS, probably globally sourced stuff, nothing special. I would trust more the usual Europen tool brnds, Wera, Wiha, Gedore, Usag...
Just saying, I do not think the oil drain plug is critical at all. This is a low (compared to bolt size) torqued bolt, and the final torque will depend mostly on how the seal will get compressed. I would trust my old fashion hand 100%.
RS advertise them as being made and calibrated in the UK, although not by whom. Coincidentally, my first wife (nasty cow, although she failed to mention that before I married her) was a director for RS Components, as it was then.
Quite a lot of bits are replace when removed these days to be fair.
VW Extended Warranty won't pay out unless every 'to be replaced' part, is replaced (bolts / seals etc)
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I was talking about my Ducati there.
Ah, so you'll be familiar with the spanners then (says the man with the Suzuki made from low grade papier mache!
)
I use a Lazer 6ltr oil extractor, I removed the oil in two stages, emptied it after 4ltrs had be extracted and removed the the remaining oil. I then removed the sump plug to empty any residue oil. Note when removing the oil filter housing there is a central plastic bolt which drains the filter bowl before you unscrew it to gain access to the oil filter.
Laser Tools 3659 Oil/Fluid Extractor
Laser Tools 3659 This extractor is designed to vacuum fluids from inaccessible or confined areas. It is ideal for oil changes on boats, cars, motorcycles,...
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