Newbie needs help before i lose my hair ???

[Robert K]

Like I said earlier check the cab floor as the y suffer with water leaking in and causing problems and the fact you have locking problems points at it more

I'm actually going to go outside now and start removing seats etc so I can see if water ingress has occurred. With van being jacked up at front in air, it maybe possible that water has sneaked in somewhere. So its worth a check like you say, its only a few bolts anyway. Thanks
Regards Robert

 

[Niknak]

Going to attracted a world of hate for this but please don’t forget with wiring we are not in the dark ages, modern vehicles you can’t always use multimeters as a lot of systems rely on pwm also it drives me mad people checking continuity wrong let’s not forget if you have a 32 strand wire and it has 31 snapped strands it will still have continuity but ridiculously high resistance, @Robert K just work your way back methodically and if you must use a test light hopefully it’s a led type, I know it’s a bit of a rant not aimed at yourself, so much damage can happen if you don’t isolate or consider what your doing personally I’ve used a scope for testing wiring for years now

 

[Robert K]

Going to attracted a world of hate for this but please don’t forget with wiring we are not in the dark ages, modern vehicles you can’t always use multimeters as a lot of systems rely on pwm also it drives me mad people checking continuity wrong let’s not forget if you have a 32 strand wire and it has 31 snapped strands it will still have continuity but ridiculously high resistance, @Robert K just work your way back methodically and if you must use a test light hopefully it’s a led type, I know it’s a bit of a rant not aimed at yourself, so much damage can happen if you don’t isolate or consider what your doing personally I’ve used a scope for testing wiring for years now

I know exactly what your saying. I'm not a mechanic by trade, but I've spent my whole life restoring cars, new and old, so I sort of know my way around cars. My latest is a e38 7 series Alpina with so much tech, its unreal. Twin phones, 18 speaker hardon karmen system. I will say that your correct with wires as they are getting so thin these days, so yes I will need to modernise myself with more modern methods, but sometimes the old school principles are the same, if not similar. Thanks buddy for replying, loving this site already.
Regards Robert

 

[Grim Reaper]

OK, test light is good, Both wires? (obviously you’d need a positive feed for testing the brown wire)
I don’t know if the lift pump is on a timer so it might only be supposed to run for a short time after ignition is turned on, most cars prime the pump then stop until the ecu sees crank rotation, ie you may not get a permanent live feed while the ignition switch is turned on.
I'm interested to know how much VW charge for diagnosis, please let us know.

 

[Grim Reaper]

if you must use a test light hopefully it’s a led type,

An LED test light would still light with one strand of wire because it doesn’t need much current to light, for testing wires feeding a motor I would say a filament bulb would be a better test tool.
Use of a multimeter for basic testing is fine, if he got the correct conditions when testing but the pump still didn’t run, then I would use the stress test method. I suspect something has been disturbed while he has had the van in the air, an earth connection that was not that good now insulated by the wax or maybe a wire has been cut or damaged.
Did you drop the tank to do your waxoyling? No strain on the wires whilst lowering it?

 

[Niknak]

Totally not the reason for using an led test light, good luck do love some of the advice on here that is totally not the way to go about things

 

[Grim Reaper]

If you can get to the fuel pump plug unplug it and run a temporary feed to it and then you could drive it,

Would that be a Pulse Width Modulated feed?

 

[Robert K]

UPDATE........ Van is alive. It starts and runs perfectly, although I'm not exactly sure what all I did, as I done that much in about 2 hours. I removed all fuses 1 by 1, lite clean with wire brush. Cleaned up any earths I could find underneath and around engine bay. Used my trusted test lamp to make sure currents going where they need to. Removed some plugs from tanks and cleaned terminals to adblue tank as well as fuel tank. So finally after I replace all the underneath protective skins underneath, I will finally get her out for a drive.
The only problem I have now is the van won't lock with remote. No central locking or comfort lock windows, but at least she's running. 1 problem solved. Next now is central locking.
Kind regards Robert

 

[JOG]

UPDATE........ Van is alive. It starts and runs perfectly, although I'm not exactly sure what all I did, as I done that much in about 2 hours. I removed all fuses 1 by 1, lite clean with wire brush. Cleaned up any earths I could find underneath and around engine bay. Used my trusted test lamp to make sure currents going where they need to. Removed some plugs from tanks and cleaned terminals to adblue tank as well as fuel tank. So finally after I replace all the underneath protective skins underneath, I will finally get her out for a drive.
The only problem I have now is the van won't lock with remote. No central locking or comfort lock windows, but at least she's running. 1 problem solved. Next now is central locking.
Kind regards Robert

Well done! Fix one problem at a time!

 

[Robert K]

Yeah 1 at a time. Think maybe keys need re programming as only the chip seems to be working