Mobiframe Composite Flooring System
- Thread starter Ralpher
- Start date
Watching with interest; as wanting to go for the SAF42 double seat/bed and composite floor to go in my VW Transporter.
I cannot see how best to fix a third party side kitchen though.
With the added thickness of the Mobiframe floor I would also like to know the detail at the side step and rear door. Is it finished or exposed composite?
I have seen the seats in the Knights Custom van and the 3 seater within the CamperKing van; but I’ve not seen anyone use their floor or fit a kitchen.
If anyone can enlighten me it would be much appreciated. TIA
I cannot see how best to fix a third party side kitchen though.
With the added thickness of the Mobiframe floor I would also like to know the detail at the side step and rear door. Is it finished or exposed composite?
I have seen the seats in the Knights Custom van and the 3 seater within the CamperKing van; but I’ve not seen anyone use their floor or fit a kitchen.
If anyone can enlighten me it would be much appreciated. TIA
So the floor is quite thick I cannot remember the exact depth now however I believe it means that you can’t have the standard wardrobe unit. However happy to be corrected. I’ve ordered a low level kitchen from van furniture as this is suitable and I prefer that style anyway. I think it makes the van appear a bit more spacious
Watching with interest; as wanting to for the SAF42 double seat/bed and composite floor to go in my VW Transporter.
I cannot see how best to fix a third party side kitchen though.
With the added thickness of the Mobiframe floor I would also like to know the detail at the side step and rear door. Is it finished or exposed composite?
I have seen the seats in the Knights Custom van and the 3 seater within the CamperKing van; but I’ve not seen anyone use their floor or fit a kitchen.
If anyone can enlighten me it would be much appreciated. TIA
I cannot see how best to fix a third party side kitchen though.
With the added thickness of the Mobiframe floor I would also like to know the detail at the side step and rear door. Is it finished or exposed composite?
I have seen the seats in the Knights Custom van and the 3 seater within the CamperKing van; but I’ve not seen anyone use their floor or fit a kitchen.
If anyone can enlighten me it would be much appreciated. TIA
Yeah, Van Furniture look good. Are you going to have to collect the Low Level from them? How are you thinking of fixing it to the Mobiframe floor? Please keep me posted. Thanks
You could install a Mobiframe composite floor on such an insulated floor, but it will require some effort. Only the contact surface between the composite floor and the vehicle floor is glued. Therefore, it would be necessary to remove the insulation from the grooves/ridges on the floor of your VW (Mobiframe's floor needs to be glued to the metal directly).
Hi, I now have the Mobiframe floor, 4 rail version, and 150cm seat.
As supplied and fitted, the edges are unfinished with the floor covering slightly larger than the floor to allow it to be trimmed to a more precise fit if required. I have actually left mine untrimmed so lapping up some of the walls.
I have found that the Caravelle step threshold fits nicely with the floor, but is a slightly different shape at the sides - there is a few mm gap but hardly noticeable and I'm not attempting to do anything about it yet. A bigger issue ids the rear threshold. The Caravelle rear one fits after some trimming, but I have barn doors and the Caravell doesn't, so there is a bit of work to do. The door shape is different too and I don't think there is sufficient clearance to fit the top cover part of the Caravelle threshold, so I may carpet the bottom section instead which will also allow me the fill the 50mm or so gap at each end of the threshold as it doesn't go full width. The alternative at the back is to fit an aluminium angle to the raised edge.
The sliding mechanism seems good and smooth so far, not tested it out much and not slept on the bed yet. There are a few rattles but they are reducing as I check tightness or make adjustments.
I asked how people attach a kitchen, knowing how mine was attached to the floor when I was removing it. I was advised that it was not recommended to screw into the floor, so I don't know how it should be secured. That is not an issue for me though, I've gone to a full width seat and will be fixing a removable small kitchen pod in front of it when camping, clamped into the offside floor rail.
As supplied and fitted, the edges are unfinished with the floor covering slightly larger than the floor to allow it to be trimmed to a more precise fit if required. I have actually left mine untrimmed so lapping up some of the walls.
I have found that the Caravelle step threshold fits nicely with the floor, but is a slightly different shape at the sides - there is a few mm gap but hardly noticeable and I'm not attempting to do anything about it yet. A bigger issue ids the rear threshold. The Caravelle rear one fits after some trimming, but I have barn doors and the Caravell doesn't, so there is a bit of work to do. The door shape is different too and I don't think there is sufficient clearance to fit the top cover part of the Caravelle threshold, so I may carpet the bottom section instead which will also allow me the fill the 50mm or so gap at each end of the threshold as it doesn't go full width. The alternative at the back is to fit an aluminium angle to the raised edge.
The sliding mechanism seems good and smooth so far, not tested it out much and not slept on the bed yet. There are a few rattles but they are reducing as I check tightness or make adjustments.
I asked how people attach a kitchen, knowing how mine was attached to the floor when I was removing it. I was advised that it was not recommended to screw into the floor, so I don't know how it should be secured. That is not an issue for me though, I've gone to a full width seat and will be fixing a removable small kitchen pod in front of it when camping, clamped into the offside floor rail.
Sounds good, I think I am about to pull the trigger on floor and seat / bed, what covering did you go for, do you think you could vinyl floor over the top with cutouts for the sliders? Was also thinking about some sort of rubber with slit down middle to go over rails so they don't fill with sand from kids. Great if you could get some detailed pics up of the edges.
I went to fit my MOBIFRAME floor today but on double checking the floor before cutting, they were meant to cut the second sliding door step out but didn’t, I noticed that not only could I not get the floor flat on the van floor as it contacted at the passenger B pillar but there was a gap (70mm) at the bottom of the driver side B pillar - as though it was cut incorrectly at the factory (see photos). This can’t be right…I’ve emailed campervan warehouse so awaiting their response. I’m assuming the B pillar widths are the same between all transporter variants for economics of manufacturing, irrespective of left or right hand drive. Essentially the passenger side b pillar is wider as it accommodates the fuel tank and AdBlue tank filler necks.
For reference I have a LWB panel van with twin sliders.
For reference I have a LWB panel van with twin sliders.
Finally installed my MOBIFRAME flooring and seat/bed. I chose to install myself in order to say on cost and because I wanted to. I would say 2hrs to fit is an underestimate. I’ll caveat that with the fact I had additional holes to cut - for the rear tie-down points, as I use them with my mounted bike rack. Plus there was some minor adjustments to make at the driver side front corner to allow access to the seatbelt bolt. I wanted to make sure everything was accessible once the floor is down as it’s not ever coming up again!
The process was pretty straight forward but a little awkward and min 2-person job due to the size and weight of the floor - more on this in a bit. I had to purchase a specific sausage/applicator gun (from Amazon) and to reduce costs went for a manual one. Be prepared for hand and arm ache - you get about 6 sausages of sealant/glue and that’s a lot of trigger squeezing! And it took a while just for that part (about 45mins inc sausage changes). You can purchase electric sausage guns but they’re clearly more expensive.
Now, the really fun part was manoeuvring the 150cm full-width seat/bed into the van. OMG! This thing is uber heavy. It must be in the region of 400-500kg. It took two pretty strong guys about 30mins just to get it into the van. The easiest option, mostly due to needing to hold the seat from both ends, was to enter via the sliding side door - ill caveat this with my van being a twin-slider so I had the ability to open both doors and had space to move out the other side of the van once the seat was in. You need to be careful you don’t damage the edge of the van step or edge of the floor when manoeuvring it in - I used some foam kneeling pads which worked a treat. I also used the weight of the seat to act as the weight on the floor to ensure a snug fit and squeeze the glue down.
There is some electrical wiring faff to sort out also. The side step lighting cable and the rear tailgate latch cable. This just about fits down the edge so still accessible if required.
I also had it working with my rusty lee passenger double sliding swivel base. I did need some extra washers on the back fixings (2 x 2mm plates (40x40x2mm) for each hole) in order to raise it enough to allow the rollers of the back edge of the swivel to glide over the floor. The floor is 30mm thick, so thicker than the standard rubber/foam matting.
There is a bit of a gap either side of the rear threshold plate (about 50mm) that needs some though how to tidy up and the original plastic tie-down parts that fit into my modified holes will need packing out and longer bolts. Plus the B Pillar lower trims on both sides will needs trimming on the bottom edge to accommodate the floor thickness.
Finally, I had to order deeper side steps - Campervan Wearhouse sell these - tho I think I need to retrofit the original light units in but should be easy enough.
The process was pretty straight forward but a little awkward and min 2-person job due to the size and weight of the floor - more on this in a bit. I had to purchase a specific sausage/applicator gun (from Amazon) and to reduce costs went for a manual one. Be prepared for hand and arm ache - you get about 6 sausages of sealant/glue and that’s a lot of trigger squeezing! And it took a while just for that part (about 45mins inc sausage changes). You can purchase electric sausage guns but they’re clearly more expensive.
Now, the really fun part was manoeuvring the 150cm full-width seat/bed into the van. OMG! This thing is uber heavy. It must be in the region of 400-500kg. It took two pretty strong guys about 30mins just to get it into the van. The easiest option, mostly due to needing to hold the seat from both ends, was to enter via the sliding side door - ill caveat this with my van being a twin-slider so I had the ability to open both doors and had space to move out the other side of the van once the seat was in. You need to be careful you don’t damage the edge of the van step or edge of the floor when manoeuvring it in - I used some foam kneeling pads which worked a treat. I also used the weight of the seat to act as the weight on the floor to ensure a snug fit and squeeze the glue down.
There is some electrical wiring faff to sort out also. The side step lighting cable and the rear tailgate latch cable. This just about fits down the edge so still accessible if required.
I also had it working with my rusty lee passenger double sliding swivel base. I did need some extra washers on the back fixings (2 x 2mm plates (40x40x2mm) for each hole) in order to raise it enough to allow the rollers of the back edge of the swivel to glide over the floor. The floor is 30mm thick, so thicker than the standard rubber/foam matting.
There is a bit of a gap either side of the rear threshold plate (about 50mm) that needs some though how to tidy up and the original plastic tie-down parts that fit into my modified holes will need packing out and longer bolts. Plus the B Pillar lower trims on both sides will needs trimming on the bottom edge to accommodate the floor thickness.
Finally, I had to order deeper side steps - Campervan Wearhouse sell these - tho I think I need to retrofit the original light units in but should be easy enough.
Two thoughts on the additional weight now added to the van…
1. Views on the need for upgraded brakes so I can stop without melting the OEM disks?
2. How close to exceeding my T30 weight limit am I? I plan on taking to a weigh bridge to find this out.
Ooh and a bonus thought - I now need to adjust the rear H&R suspension as it’s now sitting low! Thankfully I had the rear adjustable ones fitted for this very reason.
1. Views on the need for upgraded brakes so I can stop without melting the OEM disks?
2. How close to exceeding my T30 weight limit am I? I plan on taking to a weigh bridge to find this out.
Ooh and a bonus thought - I now need to adjust the rear H&R suspension as it’s now sitting low! Thankfully I had the rear adjustable ones fitted for this very reason.
KEEPitSTUPID
Member
Thanks for this post man! Installed today. Racked the internet and nothing official from mobiframe about the pillar covers needing to be cut. Or the fact the drivers seatbelt bolts is below ground level. So i think it is only your post i found that mentions this need so was reassuring as i had primed after a successful dry run. Figured i would retry with pillars covered - no chance. So back out and pillers off (post now read). I then read that the primer has a 24hour window so have had to just plough on. Just stuck it down and weighted it at 23:00
. Side note: the adhesive DOES NOT COME OFF YOUR SKIN.
Good to know others are making use of the post - I figured it’s all about paying it back! I still have the b pillar trims to do but with a dremmel tool should be easy enough. You’re defo right about the adhesive - it’s a pain in the arse to get off your skin, or anywhere for that matter.Thanks for this post man! Installed today. Racked the internet and nothing official from mobiframe about the pillar covers needing to be cut. Or the fact the drivers seatbelt bolts is below ground level. So i think it is only your post i found that mentions this need so was reassuring as i had primed after a successful dry run. Figured i would retry with pillars covered - no chance. So back out and pillers off (post now read). I then read that the primer has a 24hour window so have had to just plough on. Just stuck it down and weighted it at 23:00
Side note: the adhesive DOES NOT COME OFF YOUR SKIN.
I’ve now finished off installing the two bolts with brackets through the rails and van floor. Straight forward enough but made frustratingly longer as you have underbody plastic tray to remove first. Still need to cut slots out of it to accommodate the brackets, another job with the dremmal.
I’ve managed to purchase extra deep sidesteps from camper van warehouse which are ok but they’re a bit thinner plastic than OEM ones and only use two of the original fixings but have adhesive pads, which I’m not keen on as I don’t like things not easily accessible. Also need to cut out holes for the lights. I’m still on the look out for a tailgate threshold but a deeper one.
To those that have installed the SAF seats (my floor and SAF42 112 was professionally fitted): is the seat designed to be taken in and out or is it more of disassemble job. I have a side kitchen to be installed and wondering if it is straight forward to remove the seat. Thanks
PS I am impressed with the seat.
PS I am impressed with the seat.
I fitted my seat and it is simple, apart from weighing a tonne! The 112 version should obvs be lighter but they all just pop into the rails. In theory it should just pop out the same as long as you line it up correctly and I’d suggest a two person lift at the same time.
Yes, they can be removed and refitted, but it is a two/three person job. I think the two seater weighs in at about 85kg and the three seater at about 135kg. My 3 seater (no kitchen) was put in through the side door, with three people lifting. Not something I'd like to remove and refit except in extreme circumstances!
Has anyone slept on the SAF bed yet? We are moving from RIB to Mobiframe. To me, when laying down on it briefly, it felt more comfortable than the RIB without padding. I would never use it without something extra, but with the RIB we use a 2” comfortz memory foam mattress topper AND the 2.5cm duvulay sleeping bags. It’s comfy, but wondering if I can get away with less padding on the Mobiframe? Either changing to the thicker Duvulays on their own, or a thinner mattress.
Cheers
Cheers
I did the same, on via the sliding door. I’d say the 3-seater is more around 250kg+ mark though.
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