Hillside Birchover

[Anakin]

I connected up the Victron MPPT solar controller today. I’m trying to get as much of the prewiring and installation done before fitting the solar panel. The MPPT now has an earth and “Battery” input is connected to the bottom terminal of the SPE unit. That seems to have worked and the MPPT controller is alive and I can see it on my phone in the Victron app. I can then just make the panel connections when it’s installed.

The Hillside battery meter shows as full, when I press the rocker switch, but is now illuminated constantly and I’m pretty sure it wasn’t doing that before. Is it normal to be lit up all the time?

 

[EAN]

I connected up the Victron MPPT solar controller today. I’m trying to get as much of the prewiring and installation done before fitting the solar panel. The MPPT now has an earth and “Battery” input is connected to the bottom terminal of the SPE unit. That seems to have worked and the MPPT controller is alive and I can see it on my phone in the Victron app. I can then just make the panel connections when it’s installed.

The Hillside battery meter shows as full, when I press the rocker switch, but is now illuminated constantly and I’m pretty sure it wasn’t doing that before. Is it normal to be lit up all the time?

Mine just displays the leisure battery voltage when the rocker switch is pressed, otherwise off: It's a momentary switch.

 

[Anakin]

Mine just displays the leisure battery voltage when the rocker switch is pressed, otherwise off: It's a momentary switch.

Yes, mine too. But the display was back-lit and stayed on, which I hadn’t ever noticed before. Happily when I looked 10 minutes later the backlight was off and has stayed off. It must have been triggered somehow by connecting the MPPT.

 

[Jamesie]

Just completed my leisure electrics install replacing the standard Birchover T6.1 setup. Fogstar 100Ah lithium. Victron XS 50A DC to DC, Victron Smartshunt and Victron IP67 AC charger. All seems to be working OK. Probably need to fully charge the battery and calibrate the Smartshunt.

 

[Anakin]

@Jamesie looking good there. Did you consider fitting an Ablemail for automatic topping up of the SN while you’re in there?

 

[Jamesie]

@Jamesie looking good there. Did you consider fitting an Ablemail for automatic topping up of the SN while you’re in there?

I considered it but to be honest I've never had a problem with the starter battery in over 3 years of ownership, and the van can quite regularly sit in the driveway untouched for 2 or 3 weeks and starts no problem every time. Hopefully that hasn't jinxed it. Our usage tends to be weekends away to big touring trips where we are driving most days so putting power back into the starter battery.

 

[Captain Quick]

I’m currently installing an Orion XS DC-DC charger, ABT12-2 and SmartShunt and want to swap the 200 Amp MIDI fuse on the +ve terminal module of the leisure battery for a 60Amp one for the feed to the Orion. However, it looks like all the fuses in the Fuseholder SG unit are riveted or pressed on to the terminal posts in some way. Anyone any idea on how to change the fuses? Are they just a push fit? I was hoping not to have to add a separate fuse block. All input welcome. Thanks.

 

[EAN]

I’m currently installing an Orion XS DC-DC charger, ABT12-2 and SmartShunt and want to swap the 200 Amp MIDI fuse on the +ve terminal module of the leisure battery for a 60Amp one for the feed to the Orion. However, it looks like all the fuses in the Fuseholder SG unit are riveted or pressed on to the terminal posts in some way. Anyone any idea on how to change the fuses? Are they just a push fit? I was hoping not to have to add a separate fuse block. All input welcome. Thanks.

View attachment 284513

Yep, riveted, as the whole fuse unit was incompatible with my Lithium and only one fuse was actually in use, I just discarded it. If you must use it then drill the rivet out and replace with nut and bolt.

 

[Captain Quick]

Yep, riveted, as the whole fuse unit was incompatible with my Lithium and only one fuse was actually in use, I just discarded it. If you must use it then drill the rivet out and replace with nut and bolt.

@EAN Many thanks for confirming that. I just drilled the rivet out but have discovered that the VW fuses are not the same dimensions as Midi types. The VW holes are 35mm apart whilst the Midis are smaller. VW must fit a non-standard fuse type.

A bit of filing and I managed to make it fit.

 

[EAN]

@EAN Many thanks for confirming that. I just drilled the rivet out but have discovered that the VW fuses are not the same dimensions as Midi types. The VW holes are 35mm apart whilst the Midis are smaller. Back to the drawing board.

I didn’t know that. New battery terminal and inline midi fuse. Throw the VW unit away.

 

[Jamesie]

Yes i swapped out my factory AGM battery for a Fogstar 100AH recently and I removed the VW fuse box and went with inline midi fuse holders and 60A midi fuses for the DC to DC charger and load output connections at the positive terminal.

 

[Captain Quick]

I’m pleased to say I finally finished my install of a Victron Orion XS, SmartShunt and Ablemail ABT12-2 into our Birchover. I managed to get all the units fixed to the passenger seat side with as little disruption to the underseat wiring as I could. I decided to postpone the installation of the Roamer LiFePO4 this time as I’m going to be busy for the next couple of months.

I’m still debating whether to keep or ditch the engine run signal that opens the relay in the rear to shut down the habitation electrics whilst the engine is running. Hillside and a lot of other converters seem to fit these things presumably to avoid any issues with RFI whilst the van is driving. I think it’s a an NCC requirement but I can’t see any point as it often shuts the habitation lighting down just when you need it. I’ll only need to remove the 5A fuse (the brown one fourth from left in bottom left fuse block) to disable it.

 

[Wrecker]

View attachment 272674What do folk do if a previously fine cupboard door now sticks like a pig?View attachment 272675

I normally tap them inward with the edge of my hand.

 

[DXX]

I’m pleased to say I finally finished my install of a Victron Orion XS, SmartShunt and Ablemail ABT12-2 into our Birchover. I managed to get all the units fixed to the passenger seat side with as little disruption to the underseat wiring as I could. I decided to postpone the installation of the Roamer LiFePO4 this time as I’m going to be busy for the next couple of months.

I’m still debating whether to keep or ditch the engine run signal that opens the relay in the rear to shut down the habitation electrics whilst the engine is running. Hillside and a lot of other converters seem to fit these things presumably to avoid any issues with RFI whilst the van is driving. I think it’s a an NCC requirement but I can’t see any point as it often shuts the habitation lighting down just when you need it. I’ll only need to remove the 5A fuse (the brown one fourth from left in bottom left fuse block) to disable it.

View attachment 285094
View attachment 285096

Looks tidy but what’s restraining the battery in the event of a collision?

 

[Captain Quick]

Looks tidy but what’s restraining the battery in the event of a collision?

The standard VW battery clamp at the rear of the battery base as supplied with all factory fit auxiliary batteries.

 

[EAN]

So, I’ve been sorting out a route through from under the driver’s seat to the rear cupboard area of my Birchover Classic (T6.1 2023) for a number of new cables in preparation for a few updates I’ve got planned.
In case it is helpful to anyone I’ve found the easiest route is to just follow where Hillside route their main leisure power feed:
That is along the floor to the drivers B-pillar, up and in through the opening to the left of the seat belt reel, then down and through the same hole they use taking you into the void behind the fridge and then along behind the rear of the kitchen all the way to the rear cupboard.
So if you remove the B-pillar trim and take out the fridge (it’s only 4 screws and there’s plenty of cable to slide it right out), it’s a really easy route.
I’ve currently got it all dismantled so here are some photos

Hillside power feeding up from floor into drivers side seat belt void



Cable going down B-pillar and into hole



Cable exits behind fridge and tied to the metalwork on the left



View from inside empty fridge cupboard looking back to rear cupboard. Loads of room.



A couple of extra 16mm conduits quickly fed through to show how easy it is to get them through.

 

[Captain Quick]

So, I’ve been sorting out a route through from under the driver’s seat to the rear cupboard area of my Birchover Classic (T6.1 2023) for a number of new cables in preparation for a few updates I’ve got planned.
In case it is helpful to anyone I’ve found the easiest route is to just follow where Hillside route their main leisure power feed:
That is along the floor to the drivers B-pillar, up and in through the opening to the left of the seat belt reel, then down and through the same hole they use taking you into the void behind the fridge and then along behind the rear of the kitchen all the way to the rear cupboard.
So if you remove the B-pillar trim and take out the fridge (it’s only 4 screws and there’s plenty of cable to slide it right out), it’s a really easy route.
I’ve currently got it all dismantled so will take a few pictures tomorrow to show and update this post.

That’s really useful information @EAN. Pictures would be most helpful for Hillside owners. Just out of interest what updates are you contemplating?

 

[EAN]

@Captain Quick Will post some pics tomorrow.
Here are my plans (in no particular order):
1)
My inverter output is currently wired to a socket at the rear of the drivers seat.
I’m changing it so that it’s output loops to the rear cupboard and back, so I can feed an external inverter mains power output near the towbar. I’m doing it this way as eventually (but not yet) I intend to be able to switch the front socket and external power output between inverter and EHU.
2)
I’m running a 10mm2 battery feed to the rear so that I can support a 100/30 MPPT to be fitted (in the future) under the cupboard where I’ve put my EHU leisure battery charger.
3)
I’m running a signal cable back so I can implement the lock/unlock switch from the bed (again in the future)
4)
I’m running starter battery power back so I can add a small EHU starter battery charger TBD (which will be activated via switch)
5)
Adding an isolator so I can disable the DC-DC power input and isolate the starter battery completely from the leisure circuitry.
6)
Updating the main leisure battery fuse, from a mega fuse, to one that can cope with the short circuit current of the Roamer seatbase battery.

Doing the wiring in one hit now as it’s a pain stripping everything down to get access through into the drivers seatbase with the equipment fitted. I’m hoping that I won’t be doing it again for a while.

Plan is to replace the switch panel a bit later with a new one incorporating the additional switches whilst junking the obsolete voltage indicator as I have a renogy shunt monitor.

 

[EAN]

So have updated my post above with some pics. Will take plenty more as I continue and will post on this thread.

 

[Chris1983]

So have updated my post above with some pics. Will take plenty more as I continue and will post on this thread.

Much more sophisticated than I, I just drilled a hole into wood panel behind drivers seat, and then spent AGES fishing wire from there through to MPPT in rear wardrobe. EFFORT well done