Heater only working at maximum

Same here 2016 t6.. Having found your info here I emailed the dealer I've just booked on with to first mot and service telling them to make sure they've got the component in for when the vans being done! Guess turn blower off if not needed in the future?
My old plasterers still running my old t4..blower still original lol progress?! Cheers for the help
 
@Dellmassive Thanks for posting the instructions
here>>>>>>>>>>>>>
which looks very simple (and as I have found on other VW vehicles), however, my MY2016 Highline has the Resistor Pack facing the bulkhead! Please see the photo below (green component):

DSC_9343.JPG

Is there more than one version and different associated instructions for this procedure? Looks to me that more dismantling would be required to get at the bolts and enough room to withdraw the resistor pack?

Anyone physically done this yet? Hoping to get mine done under warranty but I was intrigued at how you would get at it when I was underneath the glove box for another job.

Cheers.
 
@Dellmassive Thanks for posting the instructions which looks very simple (and as I have found on other VW vehicles), however, my MY2016 Highline has the Resistor Pack facing the bulkhead! Please see the photo below (green component):

View attachment 39778

Is there more than one version and different associated instructions for this procedure? Looks to me that more dismantling would be required to get at the bolts and enough room to withdraw the resistor pack?

Anyone physically done this yet? Hoping to get mine done under warranty but I was intrigued at how you would get at it when I was underneath the glove box for another job.

Cheers.

just one version from what i can see. . . . . .

you might have to use a inspection mirror to see the fixings . . . . . basically do it by feel.

use a small 1/4inch ratchet to squeeze in there, not sure of size exactly . . .. . maybe 6mm 0r 8mm ish?

Edit: Credit @T66RUB - You need a 5.5 mm or the equivalent in imperial

@T66RUB has done his


.
 
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@Dellmassive Thanks for posting the instructions which looks very simple (and as I have found on other VW vehicles), however, my MY2016 Highline has the Resistor Pack facing the bulkhead! Please see the photo below (green component):

View attachment 39778

Is there more than one version and different associated instructions for this procedure? Looks to me that more dismantling would be required to get at the bolts and enough room to withdraw the resistor pack?

Anyone physically done this yet? Hoping to get mine done under warranty but I was intrigued at how you would get at it when I was underneath the glove box for another job.

Cheers.
Yes did mine myself, admittedly it’s in a awkward position but I managed. Mine was green but tried the cheap T5 version (black one) and everything works ok up to yet. 65 plate T30 180highline. You need a 5.5 mm or the equivalent in imperial? Remove plug first and refit last. If it’s through warranty fine but mine was 4 weeks out and VW weren’t interested.
 
just one version from what i can see. . . . . .

you might have to use a inspection mirror to see the fixings . . . . . basically do it by feel.

use a small 1/4inch ratchet to squeeze in there, not sure of size exactly . . .. . maybe 6mm 0r 8mm ish?

Edit: Credit @T66RUB - You need a 5.5 mm or the equivalent in imperial

@T66RUB has done his


.
Thanks, I’m surmising it’s a 5.5mm because 5 mm was too small and 6mm too big, ended up using a small mover which took a while because you can’t get a ratchet in.
 
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4 weeks out of warranty and VW were not interested. How to destroy Brand Loyalty.

Please please please make sure you tell the VW dealer that you are not interested when they call you to tell you that your van needs servicing. These vans cost 50 percent more than the competition... and when you compare what these vans cost to what that would buy in the adjacent VW Passenger Car showroom, you should be treated like royalty.
 
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When I had the fan resistor pack replaced under warranty I asked the service manager if the new part was different to the failed unit, ie improved to prevent future failure.
They seem quite pleased to inform me that it was exactly the same as the failed resistor unit! The idea of making an engineering change to prevent premature failure seemed totally alien.
I’m assuming that I have warranty on the replaced part for a further 3 years.
Does anybody know how VW track warranty work on a vehicle and should they provide the customer with a printed invoice as proof?
 
When I had the fan resistor pack replaced under warranty I asked the service manager if the new part was different to the failed unit, ie improved to prevent future failure.
They seem quite pleased to inform me that it was exactly the same as the failed resistor unit! The idea of making an engineering change to prevent premature failure seemed totally alien.
I’m assuming that I have warranty on the replaced part for a further 3 years.
Does anybody know how VW track warranty work on a vehicle and should they provide the customer with a printed invoice as proof?
Under uk law, the warranty for the replaced part would not extend beyond the length of the original warranty i.e. if you had 6 months of your 3yr warranty left then the replaced part would be guaranteed for 6 months A manufacturer is of course able to be more generous than that if they wished, but it is VW we’re talking about :rolleyes:
 
All VW parts carry a 2 year warranty, I don’t see why vehicle warranty ending would shorten this period ?
 
@andys is correct. It applies to all manufacturers. I had the MMI replaced on an Audi and it went again a few months out of warranty and they wouldn't cover it. They told me if I had made a contribution to the cost (however small) then the 2 yr warranty would apply. When I had an engine replaced on a BMW motorbike they charged me a contribution which I was happy to pay. The bike was 12 months out of warranty had some paint bubbles on the engine and BMW replaced the engine for a contribution of half the install cost (£200) and included the first service, I was really pleased as the original engine needed a service anyway that would have cost more. Shame VW dont care about their customers the same.
 
All VW parts carry a 2 year warranty, I don’t see why vehicle warranty ending would shorten this period ?
It would apply if you were paying for the part, if it’s being replaced under warranty then it only has to last as long as the warranty that covered its replacement
 
Fan only blowing on 4. Took Kombi local dealer took them 4 days to fix. They also queried warranty as 3 days out of 3 years standard warranty. Explained that booked in two weeks earlier and has an extended warranty as literally just bought two weeks ago from another VW dealer. Tight or what? Still, had a twin turbo T6 panel van to run round in for a few days....which was nice.
They also replace the fan as was damaged, so not sure if there is an issue with running fan with blown resistor?
 
4 weeks out of warranty and VW were not interested. How to destroy Brand Loyalty.

Please please please make sure you tell the VW dealer that you are not interested when they call you to tell you that your van needs servicing. These vans cost 50 percent more than the competition... and when you compare what these vans cost to what that would buy in the adjacent VW Passenger Car showroom, you should be treated like royalty.
Well said, just had a txt saying your DSG oil needs changing? Rang up and said yeh book me in it’s nearly ready for a 2nd service (35k) OH no the gearbox oil isn’t included in your 2nd service you will have to pay extra. Haha, Do you want it done??? No thanks after giving her a piece of my mind. Booked in for 2nd service because it’s free, goodbye VW servicing. Can’t wait to drop it off.,
 
I’ve just had the second resistor pack renewal on warranty, van was registered in May 2016 and the last unit lasted just 10 months.
It seems that the thermal fuse is the main cause of failure, any electronics gurus out there with any ideas on improvements or alternatives?
VW don’t seem to give a flying f7ck.
 
The thermal fuse may be the symptom rather than the cause, it could be there's a design fault in the resistor pack, or the blower, or the positioning of the fuse, that's causing the overheating. Like you say, it's a shame they don't give a toss and just swap it out instead of identifying the issue and modifying the part - it's been an issue for over 10yrs and carried over from the T5.
 
It’s not exactly in a well ventilated location, when the warranty has expired I might try relocating the resistor pack.
In the past I’ve successfully attached heat sinks (aluminum plate) to electronic components to prevent failure, but that relies on a good contact area.
 
I remember having the same issue with a Jag XJ40 back in the 90s and the fix was the same, yank it out and fit new resistors. After losing all the skin from the back of your hands.
 
Decided to look at the forum whilst waiting in vw Wrexham for my cambelt recall and saw this blown heater problem , noticed on the way here that mine only blows on number 4 so I've mentioned it to them and now await for them to rip me off with a ridiculous price .
My van was out of warranty 5 days ago
 
Decided to look at the forum whilst waiting in vw Wrexham for my cambelt recall and saw this blown heater problem , noticed on the way here that mine only blows on number 4 so I've mentioned it to them and now await for them to rip me off with a ridiculous price .
My van was out of warranty 5 days ago
Just mention the blower problem started when it was in warranty and this was the first booking you could get post-warranty, so its not your fault they couldn't fix it earlier?
 
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