[GUIDE] Raising the floor height to match OEM rails

[Wano]

@Wano @Ads_Essex @paddy26 Thanks for your input for far.

I have been out measuring the height of the rails from the metal floor of the van. This is what I can up with. I thought it should have been about 37mm (from earlier I this thread.
mine however seem consistently around 38mm. Apart from a section in the dashed box near the front of the right hand rail, where the height seems to vary a lot, up to 41.3mm which is 2-3mm more than the rest.

View attachment 167995

Edit: I put a long piece of angled aluminium and a spirit level on top of the rails (in the problem area) and they seem to be straight along the top. Baffling.

If the depth was the same everywhere it would be workable for you, so the dashed box area is where your headache comes from..

If the rails are straight along the top the only other variables are that the rails themselves are different depth? Or they are not flat to the floor?

 

[Skyliner33]

Might be worth phoning Kernow and see if they have seen this issue before or if they have suggestions for resolving it.

Thanks, I think I would find it difficult to explain on the phone though.

 

[Skyliner33]

If the depth was the same everywhere it would be workable for you, so the dashed box area is where your headache comes from..

If the rails are straight along the top the only other variables are that the rails themselves are different depth? Or they are not flat to the floor?

Thanks. I agree if it was the same depth everywhere it would be a bit easier to solve.
As far as I can tell the rails are flat to the floor. But with the ply in place and the rubber mat its hard to tell.

The real thing, I can't work out where/what the problem actually is. Never mind working how to solve it.

 

[Mike23864]

Thanks. I agree if it was the same depth everywhere it would be a bit easier to solve.
As far as I can tell the rails are flat to the floor. But with the ply in place and the rubber mat its hard to tell.

The real thing, I can't work out where/what the problem actually is. Never mind working how to solve it.

If you do need to start from scratch by taking the floor out and need some help let me know.

 

[Skyliner33]

If you do need to start from scratch by taking the floor out and need some help let me know.

Thank you, that's a kind offer. I may take you up on that if you have some free time this week?

 

[Ads_Essex]

@Wano @Ads_Essex @paddy26 Thanks for your input for far.

I have been out measuring the height of the rails from the metal floor of the van. This is what I can up with. I thought it should have been about 37mm (from earlier I this thread.
mine however seem consistently around 38mm. Apart from a section in the dashed box near the front of the right hand rail, where the height seems to vary a lot, up to 41.3mm which is 2-3mm more than the rest.

View attachment 167995

Edit: I put a long piece of angled aluminium and a spirit level on top of the rails (in the problem area) and they seem to be straight along the top. Baffling.

Personally I’d place packers underneath the ply up at that dashed area in order to close the gap once the floor and rails are in.

 

[Skyliner33]

Personally I’d place packers underneath the ply up at that dashed area in order to close the gap once the floor and rails are in.

Interesting. How would I get the packers underneath when its all installed.
The other options are either ply floor out. Then use 20mm batons for support using Sikaflex to set them at the right height aka Wano or use something like 1.5mm LVT Underlay or 2mm Silver Underlay with Vapour Barrier under the ply to lift it to the correct height relative to the rails.

I really want to get the ply out and the rubber floor to find out why it sent at the right level like everyone else.

 

[BJC_9]

I had problems with my floor not being level enough as I couldn't get the aluminium trims to fully click into place on one end.

I found this out on my test fit before I glued my altro down.

I think I was my 12mm ply floor which was not totally flat (it was a 2 piece floor which I glued together so that didn't help).

I had to reluctantly drill a couple of self tapping screws through my floor and into the van floor to get it level and for all the aluminium trims to sit right.

 

[Mike23864]

Thank you, that's a kind offer. I may take you up on that if you have some free time this week?

I can come down for a few hour Sunday pm if that’s any good?

 

[Skyliner33]

I can come down for a few hour Sunday pm if that’s any good?

Will let you know. Should be. I can do any coding for you if any is wanted/ needed

 

[SamN]

I've just picked up some California rails and will be fitting them soon. I've got a LWB kombi so will be re-using the floor mat as stated in this thread but have some questions about fixing the floor down. I've been searching and reading as many of these threads as possible so apologies if this has been covered, I've not found the answer yet!

How have you guys been fixing the 12mm ply down? I could use the tie down points but was hoping to keep some of these along the right hand side of the van as I like the idea of fitting removeable furniture to enable me to fully remove everything to carry any (extremely occasional) particularly large items.

I see some of you have fitted battens for additional stability, how are those secured to the floor? Could I use a strong glue to avoid drilling even more holes?

I've also seen on eBay that you can get 12mm ply pre-cut so I'd just need to cut slots for the rails. I'm debating whether to get one of these rather than making one from scratch. Given my van is LWB, I don't think I could get a single piece of ply to fit anyway. I'd have thought I should fix these together rather than just to the van to ensure they're less likely to squeak when driving?

Same question about the 2mm top layer for the flooring, how best to fix it down? Or do you leave this floating?

I'm mainly conscious about it squeaking whilst driving!

 

[Ads_Essex]

I've just picked up some California rails and will be fitting them soon. I've got a LWB kombi so will be re-using the floor mat as stated in this thread but have some questions about fixing the floor down. I've been searching and reading as many of these threads as possible so apologies if this has been covered, I've not found the answer yet!

How have you guys been fixing the 12mm ply down? I could use the tie down points but was hoping to keep some of these along the right hand side of the van as I like the idea of fitting removeable furniture to enable me to fully remove everything to carry any (extremely occasional) particularly large items.

I see some of you have fitted battens for additional stability, how are those secured to the floor? Could I use a strong glue to avoid drilling even more holes?

I've also seen on eBay that you can get 12mm ply pre-cut so I'd just need to cut slots for the rails. I'm debating whether to get one of these rather than making one from scratch. Given my van is LWB, I don't think I could get a single piece of ply to fit anyway. I'd have thought I should fix these together rather than just to the van to ensure they're less likely to squeak when driving?

Same question about the 2mm top layer for the flooring, how best to fix it down? Or do you leave this floating?

I'm mainly conscious about it squeaking whilst driving!

In short, my 12mm ply floats and the 2mm floor is stuck down with adhesive.

The only squeak I have is where I trimmed too close around one of the clips which the alu rail clips to, meaning when I stand on it you hear the ply squeak against the metal clip. Not a deal breaker, but when cutting out the channels for your rails, ensure you give adequate room around the clips and don’t go for a snug fit around them like I did!

Buying a pre-cut floor is a no-brainer, if you manage to find one: it’ll save you a fair amount of time and stress.

 

[hip99]

In short, my 12mm ply floats and the 2mm floor is stuck down with adhesive.

The only squeak I have is where I trimmed too close around one of the clips which the alu rail clips to, meaning when I stand on it you hear the ply squeak against the metal clip. Not a deal breaker, but when cutting out the channels for your rails, ensure you give adequate room around the clips and don’t go for a snug fit around them like I did!

Buying a pre-cut floor is a no-brainer, if you manage to find one: it’ll save you a fair amount of time and stress.

as above - kombi mat, 12mm ply - all floating. Finished floor covering stuck with adhesive tape. Once the rail covers are on it locks everything down. Centralplylining.com did my floor in one piece (swb) - worth giving them a try. The finished height is critical though - if you go 1mm over, the bench seat won’t slide properly.

 

[Andysmee]

Same here, the ply is not fixed down but weighs a ton and the rails more than adequately stop it moving. I have managed to bend one rail cover front-to-back so it raises out of the clips at the rear when the seat is slid forward... will get a new set of rail cover one of these days (read: never)

 

[jimthevan]

Hi how did people stick the ply and altro down?

I have seen someone spray glue the load mat to the van floor (seems unnecessary to me) - then spray glue the ply to load matt - then spray glue altro to the ply.

Any thoughts? cheers

 

[H0ME]

Hi how did people stick the ply and altro down?

I have seen someone spray glue the load mat to the van floor (seems unnecessary to me) - then spray glue the ply to load matt - then spray glue altro to the ply.

Any thoughts? cheers

I didn’t. It gets held down by the top part of the rails.

 

[hip99]

Hi how did people stick the ply and altro down?

I have seen someone spray glue the load mat to the van floor (seems unnecessary to me) - then spray glue the ply to load matt - then spray glue altro to the ply.

Any thoughts? cheers

Load mat and ply are not fixed, for the final floor finish I used carpet tape. Works perfectly

 

[Brennanpj]

I’m after some inspiration on finishing the rear tailgate, I have my rails & ply in . Carpet line the sides this weekend hopefully.
As I have a long wheel base with short caravelle rails I thought it was a good idea to keep the kombi lashing points at the rear .

Two problems are the caravelle rear threshold arrived today and it clashes with the lash points !!
I can probably revert to the kombi one fitted with a slight tilt due to the raised height .
I to have 12mm ply over kombi rubber floor .

Other issue is you see the edge of the ply either end of the threshold .
Any other ideas or pictures for inspiration.
I’m going to lay vinyl btw.

 

[Skyliner33]

I’m after some inspiration on finishing the rear tailgate, I have my rails & ply in . Carpet line the sides this weekend hopefully.View attachment 279268
As I have a long wheel base with short caravelle rails I thought it was a good idea to keep the kombi lashing points at the rear .

Two problems are the caravelle rear threshold arrived today and it clashes with the lash points !!
I can probably revert to the kombi one fitted with a slight tilt due to the raised height .
I to have 12mm ply over kombi rubber floor .

Other issue is you see the edge of the ply either end of the threshold .
Any other ideas or pictures for inspiration.
I’m going to lay vinyl btw.

Couldnt you trim the Caravelle rear threshold to clear the lashing points? Thats what I would do. the Caravelle trim is much better than the Kombi I had.

 

[Brennanpj]

Couldnt you trim the Caravelle rear threshold to clear the lashing points? Thats what I would do. the Caravelle trim is much better than the Kombi I had.

I might try it , it’s definitely possible. I’ll have a think first . I could piece a ply disc in and loose the lashing points also but not to keen as it will likely show through the vinyl .

I have been looking to see if there is an aftermarket threshold that’s narrow like the kombi one but deep like the velle !