[GUIDE] How to remove a sliding door on a T6
- Thread starter Andysmee
- Start date
-
- Tags
- how to guide slider
Inside the lower roller guide/slot is a mechanism at the far end. It can be adjusted. I haven't worked on that bit yet but I need to to replace my lower roller, so will take a look sometime
Can you take a pic of where you mean mate ?
This section of the roller guide in the pic. Will have a go at the weekend
Okay, here's the full monty...
My door starting scraping today so it forced me to do this job...
This is the part you need to remove to get the lower roller out.
1. First you need to chock the door so it won't hit the side of the van when you undo the lower roller bracket bolts. Open the sliding door fully until it latches at the end of its travel:
A length of 2x3 is enough to take the weight of the door without marking the bodywork.
2. Undo the two torx bolts on the lower bracket noting the position in the slots for later:
3. Move the roller away from the latch mechanism - it's hard without the door attached, put some effort in! Undo the two bolts holding the roller latch mechanism inside the lower roller guide:
4. Now drop out the mechanism and roll the roller back and it should fall out into your hand. Mine was showing why it was scraping:
5. Reverse the steps to refit the door. I needed my wife's help to take the weight of the door when re-attaching the bolts on the bracket, as they needed to be at the furthest point in their slots.
I just tried to replace mine with Just Kamper roller and it seems to twist and catch on the door retainer (the black bit you remove).
It was stopping the door from shutting. So I had to remove it and refit the original roller after I cleaned and greased it back up. It isn’t great but I can shut the door and lock the van.
Any ideas. The part looks the same but maybe it’s softer and twists.
Would a VW part be better? Can you even get one?
It was stopping the door from shutting. So I had to remove it and refit the original roller after I cleaned and greased it back up. It isn’t great but I can shut the door and lock the van.
Any ideas. The part looks the same but maybe it’s softer and twists.
Would a VW part be better? Can you even get one?
So could really do with some help/advice now. It turns out the original part was allergic to white lithium grease and collapsed while away last weekend.
I bought a different part from heritage parts for more money and it turns out to be identical part manufacturing company etc.
I really need to fit the new parts but not sure what I can do about the door not closing or part catching. Is there anything I can do or be aware of when I try again?
I bought a different part from heritage parts for more money and it turns out to be identical part manufacturing company etc.
I really need to fit the new parts but not sure what I can do about the door not closing or part catching. Is there anything I can do or be aware of when I try again?
So after the replacement was catching did you put the original back on? I presume it’s the original that has now collapsed.
Have you definitely bought the part for the correct sided door? There is a left (passenger side) and a right (driver’s side) and they curve slightly differently.
Mine collapsed a couple of weeks ago and the swap took maybe 15 minutes with a like for like part, but not a genuine VW part.
Have you definitely bought the part for the correct sided door? There is a left (passenger side) and a right (driver’s side) and they curve slightly differently.
Mine collapsed a couple of weeks ago and the swap took maybe 15 minutes with a like for like part, but not a genuine VW part.
Thanks for your reply. Yes I replaced the greased up old one for it to fail almost immediately.
The new parts are visually identical to the old. I have been out this afternoon to fit the newest one. I fitted as before and again wouldn’t close again. I took a look at the part that connects to the door and realised there are three bolts and they are slotted. So I loosened the outer 2 and twisted the whole lot so the front of the roller mechanism is slightly nose down pointing towards the front of the van and did it all back up and it works now. I think my old part was bent and had been aligned to work and new parts maybe not.
Anyway this may help someone else in the future.
The rear bottom of my sliding door seems slightly proud though. Is there a way to know what adjustments effect the door alignment?
The new parts are visually identical to the old. I have been out this afternoon to fit the newest one. I fitted as before and again wouldn’t close again. I took a look at the part that connects to the door and realised there are three bolts and they are slotted. So I loosened the outer 2 and twisted the whole lot so the front of the roller mechanism is slightly nose down pointing towards the front of the van and did it all back up and it works now. I think my old part was bent and had been aligned to work and new parts maybe not.
Anyway this may help someone else in the future.
The rear bottom of my sliding door seems slightly proud though. Is there a way to know what adjustments effect the door alignment?
The two spline bolts that hold the door hinge to the new roller bracket are on slots. Loosen them slightly and push the door in a mm or two.
Just remember... if you have a door store table on the sliding door the millimetres of adjustment here can leave the door card scraping the rear wheel arch when open, so careful when you first open and close!
Cleaned up my lower roller as I had the dreaded scraping and the wheel wasn’t actually spinning. Packed the wheel with grease which appeared to push out the rusty gunk.
Probably will need a new one but it’s working again for now.
Didn’t have a 2x3 chock as mentioned in another post, but made do with some bubble wrap!
Probably will need a new one but it’s working again for now.
Didn’t have a 2x3 chock as mentioned in another post, but made do with some bubble wrap!
Last edited:
Buy another one. For £17 it’s not worth the hassle when the bearing collapses and the bare metal scrapes across the floor of the channel.
It’s on the list to buy. At least know how to take it off now so won’t be a problem when replacing
Mine has started to get a light coating of rust, so it’s a job on my list for the better weather. So I’d say yes. You can get smooth hammerite too.
Yes warmer weather makes sense.
Although I’ve got a new roller coming soon so I wonder if I should try to sort that rust before changing it?
I’d do it now if I wasn’t lazy. Waiting for warmer weather is a good excuse to do nothing lol.
Similar threads
