Garmin Mini 2 with Parking Mode Cable/Apparent Volt Drop Issue.

Samro

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After having some problems with my new Garmin Mini 2 Dash Cam , I have finally ascertained the cause of my issues and thought I'd share my findings for others. (I thought that this may well help anyone following installation of the Garmin Parking Mode Cable! Link Here.)

In "short" My Garmin Mini would not stay "Alive" in Parking Mode from more than 2-3 hours and I have struggled to find out why and now fixed it!

The longer version however is:

I installed this cable and used what I considered to be a good earth point and power fed from the fuse box located my the drivers right knee:
Fuse Holder C.jpg

I used a fuse taps on uses 33 and 41.
  • Fuse 41 - Ignition switched live (To red cable on Garmin cable.)
  • Fuse 33 - Permanent live (To yellow wire on Garmin cable)
Ground taken to stud to chassis behind the bonnet pull. (I used a nut behind the plastic nut that retains the cab carpet)
OEM Ground.jpg
Once all wired and ready to go I plugged in the Garmin Mini 2 to the power cable and all initially worked as expected.

On turning off the ignition, the dash cam immediately switched to parking mode and I considered this to be a done job well. All was ok until the camera stopped showing its recording lights in parking mode 2 hours later.

So after a fiddle it was noted that turning on the ignition powered the dash cam back up.
Turning off the ignition allowed parking mode to resume, but not for long as parking mode stopped working again after an hour or so.

I thought that my problem maybe high resistance from my ground connection and so I went to the trouble to routing the negative cable back to my common earth which was a bore and guess what? This achieved absolutely nothing and the same symptom persisted!

After a bit of googling it seems that the Garmin Parking Cable is supposed to be set to cut power at 11.7 volts however for me this seemed to cut at 12.2 volts which my van often dips under even when driving.

By leaving my starter battery on charge for an extended period, with the dash cam alive, in parking mode, I was at least able to prove my theory that the issue rested with a volt drop problem.

So, this morning I have gotten rid of the permanent power feed from Fuse 33 in the fuse holder and installed a new power feed from my leisure battery to the permanent live of the Garmin parking cable (Yellow wire) and now all seems well with no drain at all on my starter battery unless the ignition is on.

This whole episode of faffing about, was not helped by my Ablemail AMT12-2 maintaining my battery voltage. I therefore kind of ruled out voltage as being the problem. With such a tiny trickle charge, spikes of low voltage still momentarily occur, which must be related to vehicle control units when locking/unlocking or "We Connect" checking to the status of the vehicle from time to time. Whenever I tested during this faff it was always well over 12.3 volts.)

Hopefully that is it and I'm now done....................What a faff!

cam in parking mode.jpgCam External view.jpg

At least it is neat and inconspicuous! (I worry a little that some people hate drivers with dashcams!)

1666091112823.png
 
Cheers for this I think I must have exactly the same issue as mine will not stay active in park mode, I’ll check that voltage on the yellow cable, I’m also going to get a little usb tester to see what’s going on at that end
 
Interesting topic.

I'm thinking of getting the kit for my Mini 2 but don't want it recording whilst parked. Am I better off with a different kit that only powers when ignition on? Or could I use the parking mode kit from Garmin, wire as intended but then disable parking mode in the app? (Unless of course the "disable" is override by the pcb unit in the kit)

Ideally I don't want any drain on battery when keyed off...
 
Interesting topic.

I'm thinking of getting the kit for my Mini 2 but don't want it recording whilst parked. Am I better off with a different kit that only powers when ignition on? Or could I use the parking mode kit from Garmin, wire as intended but then disable parking mode in the app? (Unless of course the "disable" is override by the pcb unit in the kit)

Ideally I don't want any drain on battery when keyed off...
I would either use the parking mode kit (and set the camera settings so that it doesn't record with ignition off.)
The alternative is to use the Garmin power accessory that plugs into the obd2 port:
The third option is to wire in directly to an ignition switched supply and power directly from this without the use of either accessory, but I don't believe that Garmin recommend this option......... They are however, quick to recommend a chargeable accessory!
 
The alternative is to use the Garmin power accessory that plugs into the obd2 port
I asked about the OBD port here but the conclusion was that it would affect the battery.

What I’ve done with my (pair of) Garmin Mini 2 is hook it up to power only when ignition is on. I used a spare ignition live fuse slot under the dash. It works great. :thumbsup:
 
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I asked about the OBD port here but the conclusion was that it would affect the battery.

What I’ve done with my (pair of) Garmin Mini 2 is hook it up to power only when ignition is on. I used a spare ignition live fuse slot under the dash. It works great. :thumbsup:
Ahhh that's grand, to you mind sharing which fuse you used? Mines a t6 in case you're in a different MY. Also what cable did you go for?
 
Ahhh that's grand, to you mind sharing which fuse you used? Mines a t6 in case you're in a different MY. Also what cable did you go for?
For ignition live, I used empty fuse slot SC31 under the dash center (labelled here as “pedals USB”):

IMG_2770.jpeg

I used a 5-amp fuse tap to install this cigarette lighter socket hidden in the dash above the pedals.

I then simply plugged the USB adapter that comes with the Garmin Mini 2, and the included USB power cable from there to the dashcam.

I did originally try this 12v USB socket but the dashcam kept powering off, I assumed it was just a crappy product. So I replaced it with a cigarette lighter socket and Garmin USB adapter and now things work perfectly.
 
I was lucky to come across this thread and I have the same voltage drop problem with my Garmin Mini2. It's been wired permanently live and I'm no motor electrician so have just unplugged the damn thing for now to solve it. I'll have a go at following the above to re-connect into this fuse location but I'm not at all clear how you connect a wire into a fuse box. Anyone got the time to help an amateur on this? Thanks.
 
My rear camera is not a Garmin but a cheapo Orskey from Amazon but I've done the same as @vegt - used a piggy back to an ignition live fuse. It works well.
 
I was lucky to come across this thread and I have the same voltage drop problem with my Garmin Mini2. It's been wired permanently live and I'm no motor electrician so have just unplugged the damn thing for now to solve it. I'll have a go at following the above to re-connect into this fuse location but I'm not at all clear how you connect a wire into a fuse box. Anyone got the time to help an amateur on this? Thanks.
12V Car Add-A-Circuit Fuse TAP Adapter Fuse Holder with 5A Fuse [Upgraded Fuses] - (1 Pack) (Micro3 Fuse) https://amzn.eu/d/4b5fb3D

Something like this mate, this piggy backs out of the fuse, carries its own 5a fuse but runs to a wire crimp
 
For ignition live, I used empty fuse slot SC31 under the dash center (labelled here as “pedals USB”):

View attachment 199191

I used a 5-amp fuse tap to install this cigarette lighter socket hidden in the dash above the pedals.

I then simply plugged the USB adapter that comes with the Garmin Mini 2, and the included USB power cable from there to the dashcam.

I did originally try this 12v USB socket but the dashcam kept powering off, I assumed it was just a crappy product. So I replaced it with a cigarette lighter socket and Garmin USB adapter and now things work perfectly.
Any thoughts on splicing a usb cable into the fuse jumper? Ignore the data cable and just earth to chassis?
 
Not Garmin but I have a dash cam fused from a similar location in the fuse holder and fed via a USB adaptor (eBay special). This feed often drops the dash cam on re-start when the 'stop-start' operates. I've always thought that this is due to momentary volt drop but not yet got around to fitting a capacitor on the USB output wires to try to fix it.
As the T6 is being replaced by a TGE I probably won't bother now.
 
For ignition live, I used empty fuse slot SC31 under the dash center (labelled here as “pedals USB”):

View attachment 199191

I used a 5-amp fuse tap to install this cigarette lighter socket hidden in the dash above the pedals.

I then simply plugged the USB adapter that comes with the Garmin Mini 2, and the included USB power cable from there to the dashcam.

I did originally try this 12v USB socket but the dashcam kept powering off, I assumed it was just a crappy product. So I replaced it with a cigarette lighter socket and Garmin USB adapter and now things work perfectly.
Hey @vegt I've pulled out the headrest screens today and they were wired into the same fuse location as you but with two 7.5A fuses. Tried hard wiring this to a sliced usb garmin cable but no power to the garmin. Are the two 7.5A fuses causing a problem or maybe the earth wasn't good, or the usb lead isn't a way.


Potentially jumping over to your solution of a 12v socket behind dash with the standard garmin lighter plug and cable...
 
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