First T6 Purchase - Corrosion Advice

steveratcliffe

New Member
VIP Member
Hi All,

First post on the forums!

I have been looking for a van for a while now and avidly researching pretty much every detail for which this forum has been an absolute gold mine of information, so thank you all for contributions over the years which have helped us massively to make informed decisions on what to go for, and how to go about the various mods we want to do.

We've been right around the houses from considering private sales to vans that have already been tarted up a bit at places like Salop, and have settled on getting the most solid base van we can afford approved used from a dealer for peace of mind of solid service history, and ongoing manufacturers warranty.

Eventually found the spec we are looking for, No VAT Highline T6/150/T32 Factory Kombi with 62K, one previous owner, absolutely immaculate service history, paint and interior condition. It is on a 2018 plate (which is a little older than my 2019 aspirations - as definitely want T6 over 6.1 so was aiming for newest T6 we could find), but being approved used we can have full VW Warrenty on it for another 3 years, and clearly it has been truly loved, so I can let the age concerns ride.

Having driven two hours yesterday to test drive/inspect, all was going well (perfect condition body work and interior, runs really well, drives like new, perfect tracking/road holding etc.), until I had a little look underneath and in the wheel arches and found what looks to my less mechanically trained eyes some concerning areas of corrosion to suspension components, brake calliper's, and exhaust (less of a worry as this will likely need changing soon anyway).

Having checked the history on the vehicle the one owner lived in Inverness and had the van religiously serviced at Inverness VW, so guessing sea air and more heavily salted roads for a longer winter season is to blame - at least that would be an explanation as there's no sign of any actual bodywork corrosion or any sign of sand anywhere inside so doubt its been living on the beach. I had a look at a couple of other similar vans at the dealership that were 6-9 months newer that were much cleaner in these areas (but nowhere near the excellent bodywork condition of this one).

This is ultimately would be the only deal breaker for us on a van we are otherwise very keen on (and I honestly have looked through all previous posts regarding corrosion so apologies if this is considered lazy) - but would anyone with good solid mechanical knowledge of these vans mind giving me their opinions on the attached images - is the level of corrosion a concern enough not to buy, or mostly superficial/surface that could be cleaned up, treated/greased/oiled, and then under sealed as appropriate etc. to prevent it becoming a problem in the future?

Many thanks again to all for your past expertise that has made or selection process much easier, and in advance to anyone that can offer support with this specific concern!

Cheers, Steve.

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Looks a lot worse than my 2014 with 140k miles on it.

I sold my last truck to guy from that part if the world, and he bused it down to SW London for my L200 for the same reasons - everything local was suffering underside corrosion. You can treat and fix all these items if you dont mind some work.
 
All the rust you see it’s surface. And all the parts are replaceable when they fail. Couple of very rusty bits is the rear exhaust support and calipers that would eventually seize and fail. Exhaust not worse than my 2021 with 19k miles on it.
The rest is DIY. Take your time, brash wire and seal it.
I would ask at least a discount for the front callipers, potentially will fail soon. As mine did and looked the same :) .
 
As above - a lot of vans show corrosion underneath, especially those near the sea.

I think your exhaust and lower arms will last. Same with the suspension, although there in itself will be reason to upgrade them, as I bet the conversion will mean the back-end sits a bit squat.
The brakes are fairly corroded, so as @Crazymind says, look at sorting them.

There’s a set here going for free along with another set with no price.. or you can buy removed-from-new and have them fitted, which is what I done.



The same can be said for springs and dampers.

You’re not far from @CRS Performance who I’m sure can supply and fit the brakes, his speciality being suspension.

Oh and welcome to the forum!
 
Looks a lot worse than my 2014 with 140k miles on it.

I sold my last truck to guy from that part if the world, and he bused it down to SW London for my L200 for the same reasons - everything local was suffering underside corrosion. You can treat and fix all these items if you dont mind some work.

Thanks - and yes it's definitely worse than id expect for the age (and compared to all other elements of the van), definitely seems to have suffered the salt! Just a shame it's all stuff I guess they'd call consumables and not covered under warranty - happy to put the work in just hoping once I get started I'm not going to find more significant gremlins.

All the rust you see it’s surface. And all the parts are replaceable when they fail. Couple of very rusty bits is the rear exhaust support and calipers that would eventually seize and fail. Exhaust not worse than my 2021 with 19k miles on it.
The rest is DIY. Take your time, brash wire and seal it.
I would ask at least a discount for the front callipers, potentially will fail soon. As mine did and looked the same :) .

Exhaust bracket definitely the worst evidence visible without uncovering further, but looks from the design/trough shape that it probably gets water collecting in it - pretty easy fixed I guess unless that bolt is all ceased up in its socket!

Callipers definitely grounds to push dealer on price, especially as they replaced the rear discs during its workshop prep for resale so they can't argue further work isn't on the cards! Front discs don't look great either but hard to tell from the photos as barely any space to see inside those wheels. I'd be looking to swap the callipers all round anyway as will be getting some bigger wheels at some point (not that I'll let them know that)!

From your experience does what's visible go hand in had with more serious issues - penetration of corrosion into sub frame, or corrosion of lower engine compartment components for example? I know there's an 8 year corrosion guarantee on the chassis/body but I'm guessing anything else in the engine bay that they could attribute to early corrosion they'd wheedle out of covering on warranty based on being "consumable"?

Thanks for your advice!

As above - a lot of vans show corrosion underneath, especially those near the sea.

I think your exhaust and lower arms will last. Same with the suspension, although there in itself will be reason to upgrade them, as I bet the conversion will mean the back-end sits a bit squat.
The brakes are fairly corroded, so as @Crazymind says, look at sorting them.

There’s a set here going for free along with another set with no price.. or you can buy removed-from-new and have them fitted, which is what I done.



The same can be said for springs and dampers.

You’re not far from @CRS Performance who I’m sure can supply and fit the brakes, his speciality being suspension.

Oh and welcome to the forum!

Thanks for all the info, and the welcome!

Suspension will be on the cards for sure, as like you say once the weight distribution changes from whatever we decide on for the fitout in the back will want to level it out again, and almost certainly drop it - so less bothered about suspension bits unless mounting points etc. have started to suffer also. --Will definitely give CRS a call on this as already read a lot of good things on here! At least the lower arms don't seem too expensive even if they do need swapping.

I'd pretty much accepted that callipers would need swapping anyway as these are likely to be even more visible depending on new wheels chosen - thanks for the heads up on the ones available near me, have dropped the guy a message.

Exhaust would be good to get the first year out of what's already fitted, as the shopping list is already long - so would have to hope for the best on that! :) Is the cat on these at the manifold - and if so likely to be in the same state or more protected behind the undertray?

Is there anything else you'd expect to be similarly affected that can't be seen from a nose around underneath, that I should be digging deeper into before making a decision.

Thanks again for all the info and your time replying!
 
Most of that doesn’t look much worse than my 2018 with 52k miles on it - except the brake callipers, which I painted when new and the spare wheel, which I had covered with ACF50 until it was replaced by an LPG tank.
Every time I crawl under my van I have a squirt bottle of ACF50 and spray it liberally everywhere, and the chassis components are still rusting.
On a positive note, whenever I have removed any undertrays or the wheel arche trims I can see plenty of wax was applied at the factory.
 
If it's any help I've just had to silver hammerite my steel spare after my pothole incident and that's a 2.5 year old T6.1
 
On previous vehicles over the past 20 years (2x Mits L200's) I did a jet washing session each Spring and went to town under the trucks with paints and spray underseal. This Spring I was thinking of taking the protective plastics off under the wheel arches and doing the same. I have never used products like ACF50 or Lanoguard, do people here recommend it?
 
On previous vehicles over the past 20 years (2x Mits L200's) I did a jet washing session each Spring and went to town under the trucks with paints and spray underseal. This Spring I was thinking of taking the protective plastics off under the wheel arches and doing the same. I have never used products like ACF50 or Lanoguard, do people here recommend it?
They do work and there are comparison tests out there somewhere that will detail the small differences between them.
The old Mk II Cortina that was my first car vented the crankcase to the atmosphere at the bottom of the engine. When I got the car up on the ramp the underside was immaculate down one side, which could be traced forward to the crankcase breather expelling the oil-laden fumes that coated that side with oil. Indeed, many an older car enthusiast would save their old engine oil to be painted on the underneath of their vehicles.
I have also seen where poorly applied Waxoyl has allowed panels to rust in places where the coverage hadn’t reached or has been patchy (inside sills etc.), which was good evidence that it prevented rust if applied properly.
 
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