I’m sure a wanted post would get you an old mobile from someones tech graveyard for free/postage. We have a tape camcorder in ours but a bit bulky for under the wheelarch!
Clunk clunk clunk
- Thread starter Cuiken
- Start date
I’m also pretty sure it’s not the ARB as the knock definitely comes from the exact area of the top mount, I also use to get a thud which seemed to be under your feet which I read was a tell tale sign for the lower arm bushes, now gone since to poly bush install.
The height of my top plate changes with the ride height from tight up to 5mm gap.
The height of my top plate changes with the ride height from tight up to 5mm gap.
Old iPhone on charge ready to try it out.
Not sure what I’m going to fix it too yet
Not sure what I’m going to fix it too yet
Did you manage to get this working? I'm intrigued by the idea.
No not tried yet, sometime this week or weekend.
@Cuiken I called in at my air installer earlier to collect some more fittings and discussed the cluck issue, the small gap between the top plate and turret is normal as the top plate is only there to stop it dropping out, changing the top nut from the correct 16mm one to a smaller one to close the gap up is not a good idea as it can stress the shock shaft and he has seen one fail because of it.
He could not shed any light on the culprit of the cluck so the search goes on.
He could not shed any light on the culprit of the cluck so the search goes on.
If you dip the clutch and roll around a corner at your normal speed for that corner does the clunking continue?
I know that's normally a check for worn CV joints clacking but it would take the push/pull of the drive train out of the equation and better indicate whether it's a bush on one of the arms or ARB, sadly drop links will still add their noise to the mix if they're worn but that's more of a loud rattling click.
I know that's normally a check for worn CV joints clacking but it would take the push/pull of the drive train out of the equation and better indicate whether it's a bush on one of the arms or ARB, sadly drop links will still add their noise to the mix if they're worn but that's more of a loud rattling click.
Good idea. Mines a DSG but I guess there's still a neutral in there I can find somehow.
I've been able to rule out the ARB and droplinks already (disconnected them and it still clunked) so I'm left with lower ball joint, arm bushes and CV joint.
I'll see if I can try out your suggested check. Ta.
I've been able to rule out the ARB and droplinks already (disconnected them and it still clunked) so I'm left with lower ball joint, arm bushes and CV joint.
I'll see if I can try out your suggested check. Ta.
Yeah, I wondered if that might be the case. Makes sense too as there is a bit of movement around the top when the steering and suspension move. Over tighten and, of course, it'll apply a lot of pressure to the sopt of the shock shaft.
I've set mine up with a smaller nut but then added a large washer so I'm probably at about 13mm in total (compared to the OEM 16mm nut). There is minimal pressure between the top plate and the strut tower so I'm probably okay.
Does make sense not to use a 10mm one though. Classic case of it looking fine when the van is parked but you forget the forces that will apply when moving.
Update:
The clunking is getting far worse. When driving on bumpy roads it'll now start to 'oscilate' so you get a rythmic duga duga duga sort of sound coming up through the floor.
Extra things I've checked:
1. Put van up on ramps and got a pry bar in around the wishbones to check for play in the bushes. I'd say they are a bit worn but not actually failed. Certainly, nowhere near the point where the arm can contact the subframe. Even when I'm really hauling on the pry bar I'm only seeing a couple of mm's of movement. The van is a T32 so, I gather, already has solid rear bushes? So, less likely to have failed there.
2. I jacked up each side and filmed the lower ball joint while pushing/pulling the lower edge of the jacked up wheel to try to instigate some movement. Both sides looked solid.
3. I gave the drive shafts a good 'jiggle' to check for any movement at either end. It's hard to say if I'm imagining it but maybe, maybe there is a tiny amount fo movement in the passenger side but I was applying my whole weight and getting an in visible amountog movement. It's hard to imagine such a tiny amountof 'possible' movement translating to amloud mechanical clunk/bang.
4. I've also done a ton of 'rolling tests' where I put the DSG in Neutral (who knew you could do that while on the move!) to see if it has any effect on the clunking. No difference noted. I would say though that the issue maybe seems more prevalent when off power than when accelerating.
Recap of items changed so far:
1. Springs
2. Shocks
3. Top mounts
4. Thrust bearings
5. Top caps and nuts
6. Drop links (checked torque on these, all good). Actually changed these twice since the noise sounds so like drop link failure. I also removed one drop link and took it out for a drive. The noise remianed so I don't think it can be the ARB bushes of clamps (which also look to be in perfect condition).
So, maybe it's not the suspension at all?
What else could it be though? Love to hear anyone's thoughts on this. The noise is now so bad that I've taken the van off the road until we can get a decent garage to take a look at it. With it being our only car though, this is a total PITA.
The clunking is getting far worse. When driving on bumpy roads it'll now start to 'oscilate' so you get a rythmic duga duga duga sort of sound coming up through the floor.
Extra things I've checked:
1. Put van up on ramps and got a pry bar in around the wishbones to check for play in the bushes. I'd say they are a bit worn but not actually failed. Certainly, nowhere near the point where the arm can contact the subframe. Even when I'm really hauling on the pry bar I'm only seeing a couple of mm's of movement. The van is a T32 so, I gather, already has solid rear bushes? So, less likely to have failed there.
2. I jacked up each side and filmed the lower ball joint while pushing/pulling the lower edge of the jacked up wheel to try to instigate some movement. Both sides looked solid.
3. I gave the drive shafts a good 'jiggle' to check for any movement at either end. It's hard to say if I'm imagining it but maybe, maybe there is a tiny amount fo movement in the passenger side but I was applying my whole weight and getting an in visible amountog movement. It's hard to imagine such a tiny amountof 'possible' movement translating to amloud mechanical clunk/bang.
4. I've also done a ton of 'rolling tests' where I put the DSG in Neutral (who knew you could do that while on the move!) to see if it has any effect on the clunking. No difference noted. I would say though that the issue maybe seems more prevalent when off power than when accelerating.
Recap of items changed so far:
1. Springs
2. Shocks
3. Top mounts
4. Thrust bearings
5. Top caps and nuts
6. Drop links (checked torque on these, all good). Actually changed these twice since the noise sounds so like drop link failure. I also removed one drop link and took it out for a drive. The noise remianed so I don't think it can be the ARB bushes of clamps (which also look to be in perfect condition).
So, maybe it's not the suspension at all?
What else could it be though? Love to hear anyone's thoughts on this. The noise is now so bad that I've taken the van off the road until we can get a decent garage to take a look at it. With it being our only car though, this is a total PITA.
How about rolling downhill in neutral with the clunking present and applying the handbrake unless that's an electronic brake with that DSG, just thinking this could take up any play on the back end and tell you whether the noise is in the transmission?
That's a good shout. I can give it a try.
Yes, 4 bolts. I know some golfs had issues with these bolts so no harm to rule them out. Check the 4 steering rack bolts while you're down there. And check none of the legs on the rear engine mount are cracked/broken.
We have only found one van that had sub frame bushes shot and it was a similar story , rebuild the van underneath and in desperation took the sub frame out , the 4 bushes holding it into the chassis had completely torn away , Oddly the noise wasnt that bad and it was spasmodic to say the least , so not sure it will be these , Massive job to do of course , Powerflex make the bushes .
If it doesn't clunk much when driving in a straight line but does with some steering lock applied then that is CV joints. If it is clunk when speeding up or slowing down (causing some backward or forward force) then that sounds like ball joints. I would always check engine mounts too, they do fail. But that tends to manifest itself as more of a rocking or vibration effect. But duff engine mounts can cause all sorts of issues.
That's good guidance. Thanks. Our noise is very much in the 'straight line' so this would point more towards the lower ball joints. I'm just surprised that I couldn't provoke any movement in them when I jacked it up and hauled on the bottom of the wheel.
