Central Locking Issue.

[Tourershine]

I have searched for ages to try and find this, but no answer.

Since having my van serviced last week, I seem to have an issue with the central locking.
I have it set on Auto-Lock, and it's always been fine, but now when I pull off where it should lock, it locks, unlocks, locks and then sticks at unlock in quick succession.
Also, my side door where all my products are, keeps jamming locked, and the only way to unlock it, is to keep pressing lock and unlock on the remote until it finally unlocks.

The issue is if you look at the picture, my side door is totally shelved in, meaning I cannot access it from the inside of the van to unlock it. Which worst case scenario, permanently locks, means a whole lot of mess and damage trying to get access to the back of the sliding door from the inside.

I've tried cleaning the door contacts, but this hasn't fixed the issue, and it was fine until it went in for the service, which might be just coincidental. VW said there were no software updates, so no settings should have changed.

 

[Davenjo]

Did it coincide with the freezing weather? The central locking on my Defender used to “bounce” when it got cold - sorted by Sturgess on 3rd attempt with a bit of grease.

 

[Tourershine]

Did it coincide with the freezing weather? The central locking on my Defender used to “bounce” when it got cold - sorted by Sturgess on 3rd attempt with a bit of grease.

Errr, yes it did....

 

[Davenjo]

Errr, yes it did....

My Defender used to bounce and then lock - caught me out when getting out of the car to scrape the windows a couple of times with the engine running - fortunately at home and able to get Jo’s keys.

 

[Loz]

Sounds like the lock has developed a faulty microswitch.

 

[Tourershine]

Sounds like the lock has developed a faulty microswitch.

You think if the microswitch in the sliding door is faulty, this would cause the 'Bounce' as perfectly described by @Davenjo above?

 

[Pauly]

Personally I would turn off auto lock until any probs are resolved
A few people have reported have the SLD lock motor replaced under warranty due to this problem (but think I heard that on FB group and not here)

 

[Tourershine]

Personally I would turn off auto lock until any probs are resolved
A few people have reported have the SLD lock motor replaced under warranty due to this problem (but think I heard that on FB group and not here)

I'm not switching it off, because it works more times than it doesn't. I will shoot down to VW today and see what they say.

 

[Pauly]

I just meant temporarily until you have identified the issue, as I’m sure your aware all doors have to be shut for the CL to trigger so if you have a sticky/slow SLD motor or a micro switch barely making contact in that SLD motor that could be a contributing factor to the auto lock throwing in and out, plus it’s one less thing for the dealer to use as an excuse for something not working
If all coding is standard and the side door won’t unlock it’s a basic function at fault and they would be obliged to sort it with no get out excuses ?

 

[Tourershine]

I just meant temporarily until you have identified the issue, as I’m sure your aware all doors have to be shut for the CL to trigger so if you have a sticky/slow SLD motor or a micro switch barely making contact in that SLD motor that could be a contributing factor to the auto lock throwing in and out, plus it’s one less thing for the dealer to use as an excuse for something not working
If all coding is standard and the side door won’t unlock it’s a basic function at fault and they would be obliged to sort it with no get out excuses ?

Fair point. I shall miss that reassuring clunk as I drive off for now.

 

[Davenjo]

Definitely worth exploring the cold weather as a contributing factor as well - if the motor is underpowered and/or slightly sticky then the higher viscosity of any grease on the connecting rods, etc., in freezing conditions could be enough - in the case of my LR they eventually cured by degreasing and regreasing everything.

 

[Tourershine]

Definitely worth exploring the cold weather as a contributing factor as well - if the motor is underpowered and/or slightly sticky then the higher viscosity of any grease on the connecting rods, etc., in freezing conditions could be enough - in the case of my LR they eventually cured by degreasing and regreasing everything.

That will be the next step after VW, but I cannot help but think the temperature would have to drop way below what we've experienced in the UK to alter the viscosity of grease enough to effect that powerful clunk you get from a VW door lock.

 

[Davenjo]

That will be the next step after VW, but I cannot help but think the temperature would have to drop way below what we've experienced in the UK to alter the viscosity of grease enough to effect that powerful clunk you get from a VW door lock.

My Defender used to do it every time it dipped below -3c

 

[Davenjo]

...took two years and 3 visits to dealers to resolve - eventually ended up watching the weather and leaving it with them overnight when the temp was getting right down so they could see it for themselves- fixed on that visit and never seen again.

 

[Loz]

That will be the next step after VW, but I cannot help but think the temperature would have to drop way below what we've experienced in the UK to alter the viscosity of grease enough to effect that powerful clunk you get from a VW door lock.

Most of the lock parts are plastic so might react to temperature more, have you seen this, it explains what is happening with the door lock switches etc.

Also, if you can sleep at night, watch this..

When watching these, bear in mind we also have the deadlocking motor and additional microswitches.

 

[andys]

People with long memories may remember that mine did not have deadlocking as standard and I ended up fitting different locks that did have it. If I program them to have Safelock active then they do the same bounce as that, even if I press the lock button, so I either have to disable Safelock and set it to a strange 2-lock setting in VCDS, or do without autolock. I do the former, but this does have the distinct disadvantage that the deadlocks can't be disabled when you're inside the van. I've checked and even replaced the microswitches, but couldn't get rid of the bounce.

 

[Zave]

My sliding door has the same problem at times when using the fob. Seems ok when unlocking from inside the van.

 

[Spaghetti]

I’ve had this a few times, the slider wouldn’t unlock, and also the red LED will light constantly when locking. Lock and unlock a few times and it clears.

Does anyone have a guide as to the removal of the lock motor mechanism please?

Thanks

 

[Tourershine]

As this thread has been started again after @DaveyB mentioned the same issue in another thread. Can I ask if anyone actually cures this fault, to tag my name in this thread so I can see what cured it. I cannot take mine to VW for them to fix it, because I don't think they'd be willing to remove my racking to access the side door, and to be honest, I wouldn't want them to. So I will just do it myself.

 

[Pauly]

I think VW would just replace the complete central locking motor assembly