Dariusz131
New Member
Hi, what bike rack And Roofing reils will you recommend? I’m thinking about coating them also black. Thank you
Bike Rack - black colour-change
- Thread starter pezzas
- Start date
Thanks for the tip, I contacted Dale from Technique Finishing and his quote of £250 seems slightly overpriced. I'm looking for an alternative if anyone could recommend another company?
Also... I have a question - did you manage to disassemble all plastic parts? I have two elements where I was unable to separate the plastic - how did you paint those?
That looks awesome! Where did you do yours if may I ask and how much did they quote?View attachment 22867 Finished.
Hi,
I’ve just stripped mine and you need to drill out the rivets holding the plastic and aluminium parts together.
Also, I’d recommend anodising opposed to powder coating. I just had a ball park figure over the phone of £80.
I’m visiting the company tomorrow to drop off.
Also, there’s two small Steel tubes in the hinge that cannot be anodised so I’m leaving them silver.
I’ll update you on cost and quality later.
heres a pic of all the bits without plastic and steel...
And here’s the two small steel tubes you can’t anodise...
Stay tuned.
Ah great! Thanks for the update.
I wasn't sure what to do with the rivets as they're factory done.
So you're anodising in black right? May I ask why you choose anodising rather than powder coating?
Where are the tubes coming from?
And one more (most important) question where are you doing your bike rack?
Please send pictures once it's done - really keen to see the final effect.
Many thanks and regards,
Lakis
I wasn't sure what to do with the rivets as they're factory done.
So you're anodising in black right? May I ask why you choose anodising rather than powder coating?
Where are the tubes coming from?
And one more (most important) question
where are you doing your bike rack?Please send pictures once it's done - really keen to see the final effect.
Many thanks and regards,
Lakis
Hi,Ah great! Thanks for the update.
I wasn't sure what to do with the rivets as they're factory done.
So you're anodising in black right? May I ask why you choose anodising rather than powder coating?
Where are the tubes coming from?
And one more (most important) question
Please send pictures once it's done - really keen to see the final effect.
Many thanks and regards,
Lakis
rivets aren’t that complicated, you can refit rivets easy enough, but you do have to drill out the rivets on the bike rack, I used a 6mm metal drill bit. Be aware you will likely need a couple of drill bits for this as the drill bit gets worn down.
I've been reading up on powder coating and anodising, basically, if the powder coated surface gets scratched and moisture gets under the layer then the surface can come off in chunks. I reckon the bike rack will get battered so want something harder Wearing. Anodising will still scratch but won’t come off. Plus it’s cheaper !
the tubes are from the hinge mechanism.
I’ll let you know how things go.
Update...
So the price of £80 English pounds was for SOFT anodising, which is basically a thin layer that scratches easily. Not ideal for a black surface with a silver surface underneath...
there is hard anodising which is simply a thicker layer on which I’m told is Bomb proof, however, I’ve struggled to find an anodiser with suitable vats to do the larger bike rack elements... cost would be about £250!!
so, I have gone down the powder coating path as it’s cheaper and apparently very resistant. I’ve been quoted £150 and plumped for gloss black. It’ll be two weeks but I’m in no rush.
I stand corrected :\
hopefully look good, pics will follow.
no update on the rivets from ACCU yet...
So the price of £80 English pounds was for SOFT anodising, which is basically a thin layer that scratches easily. Not ideal for a black surface with a silver surface underneath...
there is hard anodising which is simply a thicker layer on which I’m told is Bomb proof, however, I’ve struggled to find an anodiser with suitable vats to do the larger bike rack elements... cost would be about £250!!
so, I have gone down the powder coating path as it’s cheaper and apparently very resistant. I’ve been quoted £150 and plumped for gloss black. It’ll be two weeks but I’m in no rush.
I stand corrected :\
hopefully look good, pics will follow.
no update on the rivets from ACCU yet...
Thanks for sharing...
Today I picked mine - did powder coating in gloss black and the quality I've received was immaculate!!!
Initially, I was quoted £100 just for powder coating. However, I dropped my rack with rivets so the chap offered help to remove rivets and put them back together after painting.
Altogether I've paid £140. The guy is based in Reading if anyone interested: Blast and Coat.
TIP: To protect (wrap) moving parts of the rack I've used Acrylic Transparent Edge Protective Film. Works as expected.
Next on the list... Bilstein suspension 30mm lift and Black Rhino Warlord rims
Cheers!
Today I picked mine - did powder coating in gloss black and the quality I've received was immaculate!!!
Initially, I was quoted £100 just for powder coating. However, I dropped my rack with rivets so the chap offered help to remove rivets and put them back together after painting.
Altogether I've paid £140. The guy is based in Reading if anyone interested: Blast and Coat.
TIP: To protect (wrap) moving parts of the rack I've used Acrylic Transparent Edge Protective Film. Works as expected.
Next on the list... Bilstein suspension 30mm lift and Black Rhino Warlord rims
Cheers!
Hi all, I recently bought a genuine bike rack for my T5. I want to dismantle it to get the aluminium bits anodised black. However I’m having 2 problems:
1. Getting the rivnuts out
Every rivnut is spinning in the aluminium tubes. In fact there were a few that the thread lock is sticking the bolts into the rivnuts so tightly that I had to drill the heads off the bolts just to get it apart. Has anyone got any tips for drilling out a spinning rivnut?
2. Removing the rivits on the main plastic feet
I’m not sure how to get the rivits in the picture out. Is it just a case of drilling them out and finding a replacement? What have people used to put it back together?
Any advice appreciated. Thanks!
1. Getting the rivnuts out
Every rivnut is spinning in the aluminium tubes. In fact there were a few that the thread lock is sticking the bolts into the rivnuts so tightly that I had to drill the heads off the bolts just to get it apart. Has anyone got any tips for drilling out a spinning rivnut?
2. Removing the rivits on the main plastic feet
I’m not sure how to get the rivits in the picture out. Is it just a case of drilling them out and finding a replacement? What have people used to put it back together?
Any advice appreciated. Thanks!
probs have to drill them out!!! can i ask please where are you getting it anodised? Im looking into doing the same . and have read anodising is better than powder coating cheers Jon
Have you had a quote for the anodising? I don’t imagine it will be very cheap as the prep’ will be considerable. As far as I’m aware the inside of the tubing will also need to be decontaminated to avoid a poor finish.
Powder coating is your best bet, from a cost point of view. It’s also fairly durable in this setting. From memory I paid £100 to get mine coated. Good luck either way. You will also need 6.4mm rivets and a gun that fits them. Mine was a V1 to suit T6.1, if that matters
I’m just outside Belfast. There are a couple of local places, but they want pictures and dimensions before they quote. If it’s too expensive I’ll fall back on powdercoating, but I just fancy trying to get it anodised.
Can you use the rivnut tool to retighten the existing nuts before drilling them out ?
edit: you may need to locite the spinning nut to prevent it from spinning, allowing you to screw in the tool before tightening the spinning nut
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Depending on how much spinning the rivnut has done you may find that replacing it like for like when you reassemble won’t work as the hole will be worn.
You may have to go oversize with all the implications of changing attached parts.
Seems like a ball acher of a job just to change the colour.
You may have to go oversize with all the implications of changing attached parts.
Seems like a ball acher of a job just to change the colour.
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