Alpine vs Focal Speakers, anyone been able to compare?

Thanks @KT6B. I'd agree about the 'punchy' comment. It's the effect of the pronounced resonance at ~120Hz. If you roll off the bass on the Focals and use a dedicated sub, I'm guessing this is nicely reduced.

My success with the EQ-ing of the existing setup has led me to try a different solution.

I've ordered a Match M5 DSP Mkii amplifier. It has similar power output to the focal amp (though I may need to run a power cable from the battery) but includes a sensible level of DSP functionality (including a graphic EQ). It also, allegedly, takes care of speaker emulation on the high level inputs so I'll hopefully be able to get the fader working on my head unit.

So, I'll use four of its channels on the Focals and rear speakers and the 5th channel on a smallish sub.

Anyone got any experience with one of these?

Alpine - SWC-D84T6 Subwoofer with Enclosure for Volkswagen T6.1 / T6

Power handling looks about right. Only thing I'm trying to figure out is why it states that it should be installed under the passenger seat. I think/thought that the single front seats were the same either side? Ideally I'll have it under the driver's seat is all.

Cheers.
 
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I’d be interested to hear the under front seat subs as I have heard people say they are good I just couldn’t see how an 8 or 10” driver could properly fill the van void. I ended up installing a 12” JLW3v3 4 Ohm sub in a custom made enclosure under the real Kombi twin seat, it’s not visible unless you look for it after opening the door, is removable in 30 secs if you want to take the seats out to use it as a van and at 500wRMS @ 4 Ohm with a matched Amp absolutely rocks!! I‘m also running the Alpine T6 SPC-106T6 component speakers and a set of 6.5” kicker KSC6504 speakers in the rear - again all amplified at 4 x 75w RMS @4 ohm for each of the 4 channels channel. I couldn’t be happier with the sound for all types of music.
 
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I’d be interested to hear the under front seat subs as I have heard people say they are good I just couldn’t see how an 8 or 10” driver could properly fill the van void. I ended up installing a 12” JLW3v3 4 Ohm sub in a custom made enclosure under the real Kombi twin seat, it’s not visible unless you look for it after opening the door, is removable in 30 secs if you want to take the seats out to use it as a van and at 500wRMS @ 4 Ohm with a matched Amp absolutely rocks!! I‘m also running the Alpine T6 SPC-106T6 component speakers and a set of 6.5” kicker KSC6504 speakers in the rear - again all amplified at 4 x 75w RMS @4 ohm for each of the 4 channels channel. I couldn’t be happier with the sound for all types of music.

That sounds like exactly the option I wish I'd gone for. Those Alpines look great and the larger magnet assembly and smaller cone will definitely mean they are better controlled.

I like the idea of installing a sub under the rear Kombi seats (we have the 2:1 setup) but we swap the twin seat in/out for the single rear seat very regularly (and often for longer trips) so I'd only have real 'bass' 50% of the time :)

I might have to content myself with a 10" under the seat and hope that 100W is enough to adequately drive it. I used to run a pair of 8" subs in the boot of our estate car and it was enough to blow the windows out. Hopefully having the sub right beneath me will help (I'm the real bass head in the family).
 
That sounds like exactly the option I wish I'd gone for. Those Alpines look great and the larger magnet assembly and smaller cone will definitely mean they are better controlled.

I like the idea of installing a sub under the rear Kombi seats (we have the 2:1 setup) but we swap the twin seat in/out for the single rear seat very regularly (and often for longer trips) so I'd only have real 'bass' 50% of the time :)

I might have to content myself with a 10" under the seat and hope that 100W is enough to adequately drive it. I used to run a pair of 8" subs in the boot of our estate car and it was enough to blow the windows out. Hopefully having the sub right beneath me will help (I'm the real bass head in the family).
Yeh, in that case I see why you would go for that option. I thought I was the only bass head in our family, but the kids love it too, the wife not so much . . . . My favourite bit is when the mother in law is sitting directly over the sub and then cranking right up :think smile bounce::think smile bounce::think smile bounce:
 
Yeh, in that case I see why you would go for that option. I thought I was the only bass head in our family, but the kids love it too, the wife not so much . . . . My favourite bit is when the mother in law is sitting directly over the sub and then cranking right up :think smile bounce::think smile bounce::think smile bounce:
Go for the resonant “brown note”
 
I must concede to having a bit of an interest in speakers design and acoustics so I searched out the specs of the Focal ISU200 driver and measured the van door to figure out an approximate volume.

I then ran some simulations to figure out the driver's resonant behavior in the door. The plot below shows the resultant frequency response of the Focal ISU200 in T6 door:

1635326976827.png

No real surprise but it lines up pretty well with the EQ I've had to apply to get the system sounding decent. You need a ~3dB cut at 120Hz and substantial boost around 60Hz to realise a relatively flat response down to 80Hz or so.

Unfortunately, Alpine don't seem to publish specs for their drivers so I can't easily compare.

While I was at it, I compared the JL drivers. Irritatingly, the more expensive10w3v3 will perform better than the 10w1v3 in a 10L box so it looks like that would have to be the better choice for an under seat setup.
 
Okay, so given this a load of thought. Here's my plan:

1. Swap out the focal 4.320 amp that I'm currently using for the front and rear speakers for my new Match M 5DSP Mkii amp. This should allow me to EQ out the bass response of the Focals and add a x-over to roll off their bass duties.

2. Relocate the Focal amp to under my passenger seat and run it a signal from the line level signal of the Match amplifier (it has a line out that can be configured as a sub channel). Good news here is that I appear to have the 'apparently randomly assigned' 100A spare supply cable under the passenger seat so power supply should be easy:

1635410546118.png

3. If I understand correctly, the Focal amp can be configured to drive two bridged outputs rather than four single outputs. These bridged outputs are good for 160W each. If I then use a speaker like the Audison 10D with dual 4 Ohm voice coils, I can drive each coil with one bridged channel to get 320W total. Hopefully enough to properly move the sub.

In that case, I'm only in the market for a dual coil 10" sub and enclosure and can hopefully use the amp and speakers I already bought.

Anyone got any thoughts on this?
 
Okay, so given this a load of thought. Here's my plan:

1. Swap out the focal 4.320 amp that I'm currently using for the front and rear speakers for my new Match M 5DSP Mkii amp. This should allow me to EQ out the bass response of the Focals and add a x-over to roll off their bass duties.

2. Relocate the Focal amp to under my passenger seat and run it a signal from the line level signal of the Match amplifier (it has a line out that can be configured as a sub channel). Good news here is that I appear to have the 'apparently randomly assigned' 100A spare supply cable under the passenger seat so power supply should be easy:

View attachment 134951

3. If I understand correctly, the Focal amp can be configured to drive two bridged outputs rather than four single outputs. These bridged outputs are good for 160W each. If I then use a speaker like the Audison 10D with dual 4 Ohm voice coils, I can drive each coil with one bridged channel to get 320W total. Hopefully enough to properly move the sub.

In that case, I'm only in the market for a dual coil 10" sub and enclosure and can hopefully use the amp and speakers I already bought.

Anyone got any thoughts on this?
Interesting, I have that unassigned power cable under the passenger seat. I didnt think the cable looked thick enough for 100A. How can I check it is? Where will the fuse be to check?

Thanks
 
You're right! It might only be 50A. Enough for my purposes either way though.

This is probably the best discussion of it that I have been able to find:

 
Interesting, I have that unassigned power cable under the passenger seat. I didnt think the cable looked thick enough for 100A. How can I check it is? Where will the fuse be to check?

Thanks
D77D7E2E-443F-473E-9B20-F871A78C10E9.jpeg
Fuse SA3 in ebox under main battery, 3rd slot from left. Awkward to access, need to remove battery, it’s underplate and then the large plastic cover that goes all the way to small fusebox next to driving light.
 
Does anyone know why it is there in the first place? And, why only on some vans?

Makes no odds to me as 100A is more than enough for my wee sub amp plans but just curious.
 
Does anyone know why it is there in the first place? And, why only on some vans?

Makes no odds to me as 100A is more than enough for my wee sub amp plans but just curious.
Don't really know but cargo area 12v sockets, trailer coupling and webasto are afaik powered from thereabouts so if you have any of those that might explain. I think you find thinner wires attached to the thick feed if you remove the tape.
 
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I do have a factory fit towbar so maybe that's it. Wish I'd known about it before I carpet lined the van :) would have been a nice easy way to add a cargo area 12V socket!
 
View attachment 134957
Fuse SA3 in ebox under main battery, 3rd slot from left. Awkward to access, need to remove battery, it’s underplate and then the large plastic cover that goes all the way to small fusebox next to driving light.
Thanks. I forgot to say. Mine is a 6.1. Will it be different?
 
View attachment 134957
Fuse SA3 in ebox under main battery, 3rd slot from left. Awkward to access, need to remove battery, it’s underplate and then the large plastic cover that goes all the way to small fusebox next to driving light.
I double checked some wiring diagrams for T6 and on models with no factory second battery it can also be SA8 ie second fuse from right and can be either 50A or 100A, I guess depending on which all build options are powered by it.
 
Okay, been a while but I managed to find a bit of time over the xmas break to complete(*) my audio install.

*Audio installs are never truly complete.

Quick recap and report.

I was very unhappy with the combination of the Focal 200mm component speaker system and Focal miniature classD amplifier that I had bought and installed. The main issue was the boomy and uncontrolled bass at ~120Hz and the lack of significant bass output below ~80Hz.

Steps taken since then:

1. First job I did was to install a Match 5 mdsp mkii amplifier in place of the Focal amplifier. The main aim here was to use the DSP capabilities of the Match amplifier to EQ the bass. The results were interesting. I'd say the Match amplifier is generally superior to the Focal even without the DSP enabled. It provided tighter bass response and really clear mid-range from the same Focal 200mm speakers. That said, things were improved further by adding a notch filter at 120Hz with a 4-5dB cut and Q of ~1.5.

I also experimented with adding a bass boost from ~150Hz and then a high pass filter to remove the lower bass content. What found was that the 200mm Focal speakers in the door produce very little output below 80Hz. In fact, if you just set a HPF to remove all the content below 80Hz, they sound much better. This is consistent with the frequency response plots that I posted earlier in this thread.

While I was at it I EQ'd the rear speakers (cheap JBL ones) to get their character to better match the front speakers. Honestly, I'm sold on DSP. You can fix all manner of issues once you have a decent multichannel EQ.

At this point I had a better sounding setup but it was obviously light on any real bass. I'd say this reinforces the idea that the 200mm Focals are not buying you much over the 160mm ones (or indeed 160mm ones from Alpine or whoever). In short, if you want clarity, get a 160mm set of component speakers. The extra 40mm of cone diameter from the 200mm Focals is not going to buy you more bass in the door. Probably also explains why neither Alpine or Focal really push their 200mm speakers for the T6.

2. Anyway, next job was to install the sub. For this I bought a prebuilt under seat enclosure and fitted an Audison 10D speaker. The reason I went for the 10D was that I could then use the Focal amp's two bridged outputs to drive the separate coils on the Audison speaker (the 10D is a dual voice coil model). If you're not limited to a Focal amp or similar, go for any 10" speaker you like.

Obviously question would be to ask why I didn't just use the sub amplifier in the Match amp? Basically I had the Focal amp and it will deliver 320W dual bridged vs 160W from the Match amp. To get the best from the Match while using the sub amp I'd also have needed to run a dedicated power supply from the battery. Using it only for four channels with no signal below ~80Hz meant I could use the existing supply from the Quadlock loom without worrying about over-current.

Fitting was, frankly, a pain. Inexperience on my part combined with the fact that it involves a fair bit of interior removal and cable routing meant it took me three 2 hour stints in the van to get it done correctly.

Key learnings:
a. The Focal amp will not auto-enable when using the line output of the Match amplifier to drive its inputs. You need to run a 'remote' cable from the Match amp to the Focal amp. I did not do this on the first attempt and was pretty despondent when I realised I had to strip a load of interior back out to run the addition cable.

b. I did have a the 50A feed from the battery under my passenger seat so found that a really convenient supply for the amp.

c. If you have heated seats, you might need to cut a notch in the pre-fabbed sub enclosure 'top' in order to get enough slack in the seat cable (so you can run the seat all the way forward and back).

After all that was done, and I'd enabled/configured the line out on my Match as a sub output to drive the Focal amp, I finally got a chance to test.

In short, it sounds great. Real bass. Minimal (or at least much reduced boom/bloom) in the bas notes which means it's far less fatiguing to listen to. The lack of bass through the front and rear speakers means they sound far better than was previously the case.

Summary of kit used below: It has to be said though that this is a real 'round the houses' install. The choices I made were based around trying to make best use of the parts I'd already bought.

1. Focal 200mm component speakers in the front - Needless to say, I'd not recommend these.
2. JBL coax-ial 160mm speakers in the rear - These sound fairly dreadful without EQ (really mid range shouty sort of sound). They are okay once EQ'd. I'd be okay using them again provided I have EQ. To be fair, I have them mounted in the roof so there's very little volume behind the speaker which will do nasty things to it's performance. Probably most speakers would be challenged in this location.
3. Match 5 mdsp mkii amp - I really rate this amp. It's smaller than the Focal amp and includes ~same output power with 5 channels and two line outs all with comprehensive DSP. If you were happy to have a bit less bass and were happy to route direct power from the battery (not really that hard a job) then I reckon it'd probably be fine to drive the sub too. Sure, list price is way above the Focal but I got mine second hand on eBay for only a little more than a new Focal amp. So, not the end of the world.
4. Sub enclosure and Audison 10D from Absolute5 - Install of the box was pretty easy aside from the slight trimming to accommodate the seat heater wiring. Speaker dropped into the box no issues at all. I'd say the speaker is pretty good but I'd guess most mid priced 10" subs would work just as well. Like I said, only reason to choose the Audison was to get that dual voice coil. Only complaint with the sub is that, due to under seat mounting, you do get a bit of haptic kick through the seat. This is actually pretty cool with dance/pop but feels a bit weird with more complex rock or acoustic music. This isn't really a gripe about the sub/enclosure though, just something to be aware of in any under seat install.
5. The Focal amp (4.320). It's fine. Probably a bit overpriced for the job I have it doing now but, like I said, I already owned it so wanted to use it. If I were to do the job again I'd buy any old amp off-of eBay and stash it under the passenger seat (there's loads of space).

What would I do differently next time:

1. 160/165mm door speakers. Probably take a punt on the Alpines.
2. Go straight for the Match amp.
3. Single voice coil 10" sub to allow it to be driven by the sub amp in the Match amp. When running the speaker cable from the Match to the sub though I'd also run a line level cable from the Match line output. This would make for an easy later upgrade if you wanted a bigger sub amp.

And that's about it. Hope this was useful to someone.

Ohhh, forgot to add, I set the xover for the sub/doors at 100Hz. I played around with anything from 60Hz up to 200Hz. 60Hz doesn't integrate well as the doors have started to roll off before the sub kicks in. 200Hz and you can hear where the bass is coming from. So, ultimately plumped for 100Hz though I think you can play around a bit more to find your own preferred sweet spot.

I didn't do a lot of EQing on the Sub itself. It works pretty well as is. All I did was add a HPF at ~40Hz since content below that is inaudible in the van so why stress the speaker/amp. As per the doors, reducing the content below the freq where the sub works best served to clean up it's overall sound quality too (and reduced rattles at high volume).
 
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Okay, been a while but I managed to find a bit of time over the xmas break to complete(*) my audio install.

*Audio installs are never truly complete.

Quick recap and report.

I was very unhappy with the combination of the Focal 200mm component speaker system and Focal miniature classD amplifier that I had bought and installed. The main issue was the boomy and uncontrolled bass at ~120Hz and the lack of significant bass output below ~80Hz.

Steps taken since then:

1. First job I did was to install a Match 5 mdsp mkii amplifier in place of the Focal amplifier. The main aim here was to use the DSP capabilities of the Match amplifier to EQ the bass. The results were interesting. I'd say the Match amplifier is generally superior to the Focal even without the DSP enabled. It provided tighter bass response and really clear mid-range from the same Focal 200mm speakers. That said, things were improved further by adding a notch filter at 120Hz with a 4-5dB cut and Q of ~1.5.

I also experimented with adding a bass boost from ~150Hz and then a high pass filter to remove the lower bass content. What found was that the 200mm Focal speakers in the door produce very little output below 80Hz. In fact, if you just set a HPF to remove all the content below 80Hz, they sound much better. This is consistent with the frequency response plots that I posted earlier in this thread.

While I was at it I EQ'd the rear speakers (cheap JBL ones) to get their character to better match the front speakers. Honestly, I'm sold on DSP. You can fix all manner of issues once you have a decent multichannel EQ.

At this point I had a better sounding setup but it was obviously light on any real bass. I'd say this reinforces the idea that the 200mm Focals are not buying you much over the 160mm ones (or indeed 160mm ones from Alpine or whoever). In short, if you want clarity, get a 160mm set of component speakers. The extra 40mm of cone diameter from the 200mm Focals is not going to buy you more bass in the door. Probably also explains why neither Alpine or Focal really push their 200mm speakers for the T6.

2. Anyway, next job was to install the sub. For this I bought a prebuilt under seat enclosure and fitted an Audison 10D speaker. The reason I went for the 10D was that I could then use the Focal amp's two bridged outputs to drive the separate coils on the Audison speaker (the 10D is a dual voice coil model). If you're not limited to a Focal amp or similar, go for any 10" speaker you like.

Obviously question would be to ask why I didn't just use the sub amplifier in the Match amp? Basically I had the Focal amp and it will deliver 320W dual bridged vs 160W from the Match amp. To get the best from the Match while using the sub amp I'd also have needed to run a dedicated power supply from the battery. Using it only for four channels with no signal below ~80Hz meant I could use the existing supply from the Quadlock loom without worrying about over-current.

Fitting was, frankly, a pain. Inexperience on my part combined with the fact that it involves a fair bit of interior removal and cable routing meant it took me three 2 hour stints in the van to get it done correctly.

Key learnings:
a. The Focal amp will not auto-enable when using the line output of the Match amplifier to drive its inputs. You need to run a 'remote' cable from the Match amp to the Focal amp. I did not do this on the first attempt and was pretty despondent when I realised I had to strip a load of interior back out to run the addition cable.

b. I did have a the 50A feed from the battery under my passenger seat so found that a really convenient supply for the amp.

c. If you have heated seats, you might need to cut a notch in the pre-fabbed sub enclosure 'top' in order to get enough slack in the seat cable (so you can run the seat all the way forward and back).

After all that was done, and I'd enabled/configured the line out on my Match as a sub output to drive the Focal amp, I finally got a chance to test.

In short, it sounds great. Real bass. Minimal (or at least much reduced boom/bloom) in the bas notes which means it's far less fatiguing to listen to. The lack of bass through the front and rear speakers means they sound far better than was previously the case.

Summary of kit used below: It has to be said though that this is a real 'round the houses' install. The choices I made were based around trying to make best use of the parts I'd already bought.

1. Focal 200mm component speakers in the front - Needless to say, I'd not recommend these.
2. JBL coax-ial 160mm speakers in the rear - These sound fairly dreadful without EQ (really mid range shouty sort of sound). They are okay once EQ'd. I'd be okay using them again provided I have EQ. To be fair, I have them mounted in the roof so there's very little volume behind the speaker which will do nasty things to it's performance. Probably most speakers would be challenged in this location.
3. Match 5 mdsp mkii amp - I really rate this amp. It's smaller than the Focal amp and includes ~same output power with 5 channels and two line outs all with comprehensive DSP. If you were happy to have a bit less bass and were happy to route direct power from the battery (not really that hard a job) then I reckon it'd probably be fine to drive the sub too. Sure, list price is way above the Focal but I got mine second hand on eBay for only a little more than a new Focal amp. So, not the end of the world.
4. Sub enclosure and Audison 10D from Absolute5 - Install of the box was pretty easy aside from the slight trimming to accommodate the seat heater wiring. Speaker dropped into the box no issues at all. I'd say the speaker is pretty good but I'd guess most mid priced 10" subs would work just as well. Like I said, only reason to choose the Audison was to get that dual voice coil. Only complaint with the sub is that, due to under seat mounting, you do get a bit of haptic kick through the seat. This is actually pretty cool with dance/pop but feels a bit weird with more complex rock or acoustic music. This isn't really a gripe about the sub/enclosure though, just something to be aware of in any under seat install.
5. The Focal amp (4.320). It's fine. Probably a bit overpriced for the job I have it doing now but, like I said, I already owned it so wanted to use it. If I were to do the job again I'd buy any old amp off-of eBay and stash it under the passenger seat (there's loads of space).

What would I do differently next time:

1. 160/165mm door speakers. Probably take a punt on the Alpines.
2. Go straight for the Match amp.
3. Single voice coil 10" sub to allow it to be driven by the sub amp in the Match amp. When running the speaker cable from the Match to the sub though I'd also run a line level cable from the Match line output. This would make for an easy later upgrade if you wanted a bigger sub amp.

And that's about it. Hope this was useful to someone.

Ohhh, forgot to add, I set the xover for the sub/doors at 100Hz. I played around with anything from 60Hz up to 200Hz. 60Hz doesn't integrate well as the doors have started to roll off before the sub kicks in. 200Hz and you can hear where the bass is coming from. So, ultimately plumped for 100Hz though I think you can play around a bit more to find your own preferred sweet spot.

I didn't do a lot of EQing on the Sub itself. It works pretty well as is. All I did was add a HPF at ~40Hz since content below that is inaudible in the van so why stress the speaker/amp. As per the doors, reducing the content below the freq where the sub works best served to clean up it's overall sound quality too (and reduced rattles at high volume).

Great write up.

Interested in why you went with a compact digital amp considering you were powering it from the battery I assume they were a whole bunch of options.

Was it the install location or you just preferred that particular amp?
 
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Great write up.

Interested in why you went with a compact digital amp considering you were powering it from the battery I assume they were a whole bunch of options.

Was it the install location or you just preferred the compact style amp?

Which amp do you mean? The Match (for fronts and rears) or the Focal (for the sub)?

Either way, I chose the Match because it has DSP, is small enough to sit behind the dash and draws low enough power to run from the original Quadlock loom.

The Focal was recommended to me as part of the original install and was then used to drive the fronts and rears. Having replaced it with the Match amp, I was keen to re-use it elsewhere so it ended up driving the sub. Like I said in the write-up, you could use pretty much any amp for the sub as there is plenty of space under the passenger seat (you may/may not have to route power depending on the original config of your van).

Cheers,
 
Which amp do you mean? The Match (for fronts and rears) or the Focal (for the sub)?

Either way, I chose the Match because it has DSP, is small enough to sit behind the dash and draws low enough power to run from the original Quadlock loom.

The Focal was recommended to me as part of the original install and was then used to drive the fronts and rears. Having replaced it with the Match amp, I was keen to re-use it elsewhere so it ended up driving the sub. Like I said in the write-up, you could use pretty much any amp for the sub as there is plenty of space under the passenger seat (you may/may not have to route power depending on the original config of your van).

Cheers,


Apologies, I meant the Match amp/dsp, certainly looks like a great bit of kit, almost too good to be true at that size / price.

Understood about the install location, that makes that amp make perfect sense. I’m looking into DSP’s so this amp looks great and handy to know it’ll fit behind the dash. I should be able to easily power this from the main battery from here too and it should make running the wires easier. I’d power it from the main battery as I’d go with a sub under the seat.

I do have an older JD Audio amp laying around but adding a DSP plus the install would have to go under the seat and I’m installing into a California which just feels like too much hassle.

Was also wondering why you didn’t go for the Alpine - SWC-D84T6 Subwoofer with Enclosure for Volkswagen T6.1 / T6 in the end? I assume due to sound quality and also the alpine being only 8”. It does look attractive for the price for the custom box and sub.
 
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