Adjusting B14 Rear.
- Thread starter Jollyvan
- Start date
Thanks Montecha for you reply. The problem is that the spring is 2/3 of the distance from the trailing arm pivot point to the hub so an increase on the platform gives more lift at the hub.
Anyway I have done the job and for anyone who may be interested in the future. Lowering the rings by 10mm (6 turns of the locking rings) produced an increase at the hub of 15mm. 8 turns gave me 25mm.
This is not a precise art and results will depend on how much weight there is in the rear of the van.
Mine is a long wheelbase highline with barn doors and a full camper conversion with gazstor underslung gas tank.
However it now sits level front to back and side to side. -Result!
Anyway I have done the job and for anyone who may be interested in the future. Lowering the rings by 10mm (6 turns of the locking rings) produced an increase at the hub of 15mm. 8 turns gave me 25mm.
This is not a precise art and results will depend on how much weight there is in the rear of the van.
Mine is a long wheelbase highline with barn doors and a full camper conversion with gazstor underslung gas tank.
However it now sits level front to back and side to side. -Result!
That's useful info, I need to drop my rears 15mm to level the van.
I was lucky that I had access to a ramp and was able to jack the rear of the van and do both sides at once by just undoing the shock absorber bottom bolts.
The problem with doing it one side at a time is that the anti-roll bar does not allow the rear arm to drop down when you undo the shocker bolt. It can be done but you would have to lower the trailing arm with a jack or something. If you can get both sides in the air on stands for example it's a doddle. Good luck.
The problem with doing it one side at a time is that the anti-roll bar does not allow the rear arm to drop down when you undo the shocker bolt. It can be done but you would have to lower the trailing arm with a jack or something. If you can get both sides in the air on stands for example it's a doddle. Good luck.
If you jack up the body so that the wheels hang down and remove the wheels. You can remover the bottom shocker bolt on both sides and the trailing arms will drop down far enough to just slide out the springs and adjustable plates. When you re-assemble you will need some method of lifting the hubs up in order to replace the shocker bolts. You can do this with the body jack. (You may need to slacken off the top shocker bolt to allow some movement). It is quite straight forward once you get under there!
If you do it could you post some pics if you can please? I'm a total beginner at this and don't actually knowhow to identify the parts mentioned (Im ok with the wheels)
will do pal.
Did you end up adjusting these yourself?
Heres a weird one i cant get my head round. both rear plate assemblies are precisely the same... the springs... i have measured.. are the same height... why is the van approx 10mm lower in the left... i have swapped the assembly round and spring and still its lower that side. Brand new van....
sorry i wasnt so clear and they are both mm perfect setup the same on the height adjustment.i even used digi caliper off a datum point.
dont get why sat slightly on the pish.
dont get why sat slightly on the pish.
It's not uncommon for vehicles not to be completely level across axles. As an example the spare wheel is more to one side on the t6 so that'll make a difference.
Don't worry about it, just tweak the heights until its level, best to measure from centre of wheel to the arch for accuracy.
Don't worry about it, just tweak the heights until its level, best to measure from centre of wheel to the arch for accuracy.
It's not uncommon for vehicles not to be completely level across axles. As an example the spare wheel is more to one side on the t6 so that'll make a difference.
Don't worry about it, just tweak the heights until its level, best to measure from centre of wheel to the arch for accuracy.
I would have thought from the top of wheel rim to arch would be more accurate? Its hard to get the exact centre of the wheel?
I normally go from the edge of the centre and then divide it (just the centre diameter) by two, you could always use the edge of the rim and a spirit level to make sure your vertical though, I think it's 6 of one and half a dozen of the other
