Hi all just at the next stage of conversion , do you add a vent to the compartment , ie drop vent though the floor or a couple of holes in the end panel that faces the back of the drivers seat , I will be fitting a sink above the fridge , so this is to give extra air flo or is it not needed ???? I will be fitting a drop vent in the next compartment , for the gas
Yo ought to be careful there mate, if the panel is cut out behind the fridge and not insulated etc, that area will become very hot form the sun and your fridge will be working overtime
There are instructions on ventilation in the instructions. You are trying to dissipate heat. Essentially air is drawn in from the front, bottom (and sides preferably) an then vented at the rear. You will see a compressor and a fan atop the fins. We place a vent on the side of the panel adjacent to the fan so any air is drawn through and vented immediately.
See image of our vent. We change design based on the vehicle.
Rgds
Ian
It’s a picture from the converters site (not my van) from 2015 but I guess they are doing the same still and I don’t think they have any issues with this. It’s well ventilated by the grill so I guess it will only get as warm as the van is anyway. Insulated would be preferable for many reasons but it doesn’t appear that it is.
Hi, yep it may not appear to have an issue but likely the fridge won’t run as long as probably could due to increased heat. You will be surprised how much heat builds up behind there. Even in fully insulated cupboards, they will get warm. It’s just about efficiency and helping the fridge keep cool. As long as its working for you that’s fine. All the best.
Ian
Thanks for the advice but Tbh, we haven’t used it in anger yet, only been away for one night and then it was pretty cold!
I’ll keep an eye on it over the summer (assuming we actually get out!) and maybe look to add something for next season.
What would you recommend to insulate behind there? The current setup relies on it venting through the back then round and out the vent at the side, I don’t think (but don’t know) there are any vents in the floor.
I’ll keep an eye on it over the summer (assuming we actually get out!) and maybe look to add something for next season.
What would you recommend to insulate behind there? The current setup relies on it venting through the back then round and out the vent at the side, I don’t think (but don’t know) there are any vents in the floor.
Many possible insulation, sheep’s wool, adhesive foam, dodo mat, fleece etc. Problem is that your fridge is probably recessed into the void so you may struggle to insulate and allow airflow. I would insulate behind and then cut holes in the furniture side panel between the fridge and the vent box on the side. You may not notice a problem I suspect until its really hot or your LB is getting old. If you are on hook-up however and you have a suitable charger then it should run continually. It’s only when you are wild camping and the fridge cuts out around 10.5v you will notice. Just see how it goes for now.
Cheers Ian
Cheers Ian
Possible causes of overheating - Waeco CRX 50 fan fault
This thread in the T4 forum is worth reading if you have a CRX50 Waeco CRX 50 fan fault?
Also found the installation document for the CRX50 for trucks which has amended drawings showing additional ventilation requirements for cooling the fridge. Unsure why this would differ to vans/campers?: https://www.dometic.com/assets/53/09/54-500-mad65e%20rev_75309.pdf?att=true
This thread in the T4 forum is worth reading if you have a CRX50 Waeco CRX 50 fan fault?
Also found the installation document for the CRX50 for trucks which has amended drawings showing additional ventilation requirements for cooling the fridge. Unsure why this would differ to vans/campers?: https://www.dometic.com/assets/53/09/54-500-mad65e%20rev_75309.pdf?att=true
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If I have the correct manual for the EPS817, it looks like it is designed to work with equipment that has been supplied with 12V lighter socket type plugs. You would have to put such a plug on the 12V feed tot he fridge and check the EPS 817 can produce enough current (normally fused at 15A) to run the fridge.
Apologies for the late update but thought this might be of use. On investigating my overheating issue, I found the small 12V computer fan on the back of the fridge had indeed gone faulty which I assume was as a result of using the Waeco 240V adapter. I have replaced the fan which helped so I followed the advice form the T4 forum and opened up a cooling hole in the side of the enclosure (picture below). To help with pulling the hot air out from behind the fridge, I also turned the new fan around to draw air through the cooling fins and out through the new grill that I had installed. Hope this helps anyone still having issues with their Weaco CRX50.
Items used:
1) An ARCTIC P12 - 120 mm Case Fan to replace the faulty unit - ARCTIC P12 - 120 mm Case Fan, Pressure-optimised, quiet motor, Computer, Fan Speed: 1800 RPM - Black, Black: Amazon.co.uk: Computers & Accessories.
2) A 120mm Fan Duct Cooling Shroud to 4 Inch Vent Hose to help direct the fan output at the new 4 inch grill. If you have a large gap between these two items you could then use 4 inch flexible ducting to route the hot air through. - Tinker3D Antminer S7 S9 S9I E3 T9 L3+ D3 A3 V9 X3 120Mm: Amazon.co.uk: Electronics
3) A black Extractor Fan Louvered Grille 4" / 100mm - Black Extractor Fan Ducting Wall Louvered Fixed Grille Ventilation 4" / 100mm | eBay
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