Replacing a 12V fridge in a camper!?

[yoshimi]

Hi all - the RV branded (Dometix CRX50 copy) has possibly packed up on me. Getting 3 flashes error code so someting to do with a stuck rotor or too high pressure difference. I've removed it, unhooked it from power, left it overnight, reconnected and still the same. It had been working fine.
Powered from the CBE fuse box in the back of the van. I have read about voltage drop causing issues, but my leisure battery is in good condition and the fact its been working fine makes me think its something more than that.
Not too sure what to do as have no warranty, it was in the van when I got it.
Thinking about replacing it it completely and was looking at the Dometic NRX50 which I understand is the newer version of the CRX50.
I was also looking at the wiring loom sold by Magnum Motorhomes that has 6mm wire - https://magnummotorhomes.co.uk/.../12v-supply-cable-for.../
I don't know that much abouty the electrics so have a coupe of simple noob questions.
Does anyone have experience of the new NRX50?
To install a new fridge with the wiring loom shown, would you try to feed a new wire (I want to upgrade to 6mm to avoid any potewntional problems) from the CBE fuse box or just connect it straight to the leisurte battery as that loom does have an inline fuse?
The leisure battery is under the front drivers seat so literally right next to the fridge. What do I need to know and what is the process of attaching the new fridge wiring loom dirdct to the battery...is there an order of doing things like when you jump start a car i.e. take off the negative terminal first etc etc?
Apologies for the cluelessness of this post

 

[roadtripper]

Bigger compressor fridges are prone to issues as the compressor motor starts as the motor at that point is nearly a dead short.

Best chance here is to have the minimum number of joints, shortest cable and decent slightly oversized cable.

You must always have a fuse near the voltage source end of the cable - it's job is to protect the cable from overheating under a fault current situation.

The one thing to consider is that a lot of these fridges are "soft off" with any controls on the fridge and if the controller locks out due to a number of bad starts you might need to fully disconnect from power. It's fine to do this just by removing the fuse to save putting a switch in line - so long as you think about that on install and the fuse isn't a 15 minute take a seat out mission to get to...

Shouldn't need any order for connection, just take it steady and be aware of where the connectors are as you do it - don't knock one onto a contact it shouldn't be on while you concentrate on the other.

Before you write off the existing fridge try and eliminate it being down to just voltage drop outs, do you have any spare battery you can use or try resetting when you know your LB is as full as possible maybe with engine running to provide as much power as possible.

 

[yoshimi]

Thanks for the reply @roadtripper

Removing the fuse is how I cut the power from it and left it overnight. I do think the existing wires are a bit undersized, definitely more like 2.5mm than 6mm which I understand is optimal.

Leisure battery was full and I also had it plugged in via EHU.

I've just ordered that wiring loom so going to try that on my existing fridge before rushing into anything - fingers crossed I can get it working without buying a new fridge. Plan is to wire it directly from the battery itself rather than from the CBE fuse box at the back of the van. It has 2 ring terminals which will fit directly onto my battery and an inline fuse which I'm assuming will be close to the battery end. Plus its 6mm wiring and sold/marketed specifically to avoid any voltage drop. I think wiring direct to the battery with this should work fine and then if it doesn't then its definitely the fridge

Either way, even if I do end up having to buy a new fridge, I think wiring 6mm direct to the battery rather than thtrough the CBE fuse box is the way to go...I think

I'll report back here.