Tar Spots on Paintwork
- Thread starter Jay
- Start date
Autoglym tar spot and Super Resin Polish are what I use. After washing the paintwork, I tend to use a bit of cotton wool to liberally apply the tar spot remover - if its not black / too dark, you will see it melting the tar. Once all removed give it another quick wash.
Ian
Ian
AG available in bulk too....
Another vote for Tardis, many of these tar removers work very well, but from my experience Tardis removes stuff really easily and you need less than using some other products.
It’s been said already, but after you’ve used the tar remover (whichever you choose), wash those areas again to get rid of any residue.
If your paintwork is waxed you’ll need to reapply the wax too, tar removers are very effective at removing wax. No problems using them on vehicles that are ceramic coated though.
It’s been said already, but after you’ve used the tar remover (whichever you choose), wash those areas again to get rid of any residue.
If your paintwork is waxed you’ll need to reapply the wax too, tar removers are very effective at removing wax. No problems using them on vehicles that are ceramic coated though.
Also consider a chemical resistant spray bottle. Many detailers just spray it onto the panel. There are bound to be youtube tutorials!
Yes, good point, you’ll need one with Tardis, an ordinary one won’t last very long.
Loving your attention to detail, old skool methods and elbow grease pal. Bet your shoulder looks like Jack Reacher’s right arm after that effort. Thumbs up guy emoji sent to you
Top tip for the old tar spots - simple white spirit dissolves tar very easily with a little dab and careful rub with a microfibre cloth - people get v. nervous about using WS as they think it’s going to dissolve their paint, but it is categorically 99% the same as branded car tar and glue removers (I guess the other 1% might be an agent to help it rinse off easier - but I have looked at the spec sheets and WS is basically the same stuff, honestly). It won’t hurt your paint or clear coat, just clean it off after using it, as you would if you were using a dedicated tar and glue remover. And it costs pennies.
I’ve tried various different winter decon methods over the years, and come to the conclusion that on a well maintained vehicle, at this time of year, a once over with an iron fall-out remover (Bilt Hamber Korrosol), followed by a once over with the above method for tar spots negates the need for a full clay bar decontamination (which by definition then needs a full machine polish to correct marring inflicted by clay), and gets you to a good base to start afresh with wax (or whatever last stage protection you’re using) in spring.
Obviously if your vehicle’s paint is a swirled, scuffy mess, or if you have a small mucky garden bucket, Halfords sponge and old skool chamois leather approach to washing your van, then this method won’t work, but I reckon many on here take take of their buses.
Ceramic coatings are all well and good (and I have nothing against ‘em), but you’ll pay a hefty wedge to have one done, and a really good one will last 3 years tops and they still need maintaining. They’re not a once and done cure for everything.
I’ll get off my detailing soap box now (detailing used to be a lively topic of discussion on the Audi forum I used to be on before joining this one), as it may not be for all, but when I get few hours at the weekend to get some quiet time away from the family (love ‘em to bits, as I do), pamper the bus and enjoy some Buddhist Zen time, I’m a happy Jimbob.
