T6 starting issues 2.0tdi (CXHA) cranks but no ignition. P056200

[T6-transporter]

Hello everyone,

Looking for some extra help with my pain in the a$$ transporter.
I got it a couple of years ago and the speedometer just turn over 210.000 km. It suppost to have got the timing belt and water pump changed but obviously not.
Had it running on the highway and out of no where i just dies over. Got it toed to a mechanic VW, says the timing belt has broken, so they want to put new belt+w-pump+camshafts on it and will cost a fortune.

Get it toed to another mechanic who starts the repair. They replace timing belt, water pump, a couple of roller lifters, injector seals.
After putting it back together they said it won't start. They get it running on starter gas but not by it self. Does not even make a try without starter gas. They have primed the fuel system but no power to the injectors. They troubleshoot the electric and find some bad wires in the main harness of engine cables. Fix them but still do not start. They find the fault code "P056200 supply voltage low". The car has been outside during the repair (probably 1-2months). What i can get out from them, they have not put the exact injector to the exact cylinder back, but "does not think it matter that much".

After a while i decide to bring it back to my own workshop. I usually do not work with as new cars as this one since i do not have all the great tools or computers for it.
However i start the troubleshoot my self, checking everything that they might have been touching. I also trying to find some info on the internet, find a lot of helpful information from this forum.
Continues to troubleshoot but somehow i end up in a dead end and not sure how to proceed. That why i make this post as a "last call for help!", before i send it down the hill..

So what has been done:

I removed the EGR cooler on top of the engine, removed the entire front of the vehicle but left the AC-cooler sitting.
Put the engine in TDC, check the timing with the pins, removed the timing belt and also put the HFPP in the right spot (was in wrong position). Put it back together, checked the HFPP seal/filter for dirt, but no damage at all (no metal parts). Can't find any broken wires. Removed the injectors, check that the pistons are at TDC when camshaft + timing belt are put in with pins, all ok. Checked the camshaft (inlet + outlet) for damages, nothing in the "tubes" that are loose or seems to have moved from the crash.

Have then tried to rotate the engine by hand and losen the outlet of HFPP and i can see that it pumps fuel. Have also tried to power the valve in the rail to make sure that it builds up fuel in the rail during cranking and it does (can hear the engine moving slower caused by the high fuel pressure). Bleeded the fuel system probably 10-15 times, check the fuel before fuel filter, after fuel filter, into HFPP, after HFPP, in the return of the rail. Doing a compression test with a pressure gage for petrol engines, getting above 18bars on all cylinders, but do not have the right tool the check it propertly.
Checking the timing 3-4 times just to make sure nothing is off, not even by a tooth or a small angle of nothing. Making sure that the cams are opening/closing to the right cylinder at TDC, all good.

Tries to crank it over, geting read values on RPM, Rail pressure (above 300 at start), no power to injectors and 0mg fuel injected. Does not even make an attempt to fire up. Read a thread on T6forum to remove the camshaft position sensor. Does this and WOOP, it tries to fire it up. It give is a couple of tries, almost getting it to run by it self for a sek. Reading through the thread once again and it says that the "sender" for camshaft sensor might have "moved". Removes everything again (down so i can visually see the camshafts), check the "sender", it is stuck to the camshaft, impossible to move. And according to the pictures that hey send in the tread, it seems to be positions in the right way when in TDC. Putting it back together, do the same test again, it tries to fire up when the sensor is removed. Just to be sure, buys a new sensor, does the same test and same results, tries to fire up while out, but put in -> no ignition/injections.

After a couple of tries, trying it again but this time with starter gas. After this it does not fire up at all, even with the sensor in place or removed. Not a single fuse is blowed of the ones i have checked (all in middle of panel inside car), all in front of car beneath the battery (have not open the data-box cover yet).

I'm not sure how to continue, as i said, looking for the last glitch of sunlight...
I have borrowed friends computer with Autocom release 2021.11, so if there is any suggestions to record something to continue or any help at all would be really thankful!

This are the threads i been reading through:

CXHA Non start [Resolved]

Hi Guys I have a 2019 T6 here CXHA engine.Was going down the motor way then just bogged out like it ran out of fuel. Now it won’t start I have 350bar of rail pressure fuel up to the filter. I’m getting a cam and crank signal. But it’s like the injectors are not firing. The vehicle will start on...

www.t6forum.com

2.0tdi crank but no start with no faults

I currently have a 2.0 tdi T6 in the workshop that will not start. It had a Egr fault once but did not return. I've checked everything I can think of and was looking for some direction. On crank it has good fuel pressure, air flow, rpm signal both for cam and crank. Timing is bang on and belt...

www.t6forum.com

Intermittent starting issue

Every now and then since I bought my van about 2 years ago I have had an issue where it fails to start, the engine turns over as normal but doesn't fire even if left turning over for several seconds. When this happens, it usually happens repeatedly but if left for a few minutes will then start...

www.t6forum.com

Won’t start. No fault codes

Good evening guys, Im wondering if someone could help, I have a 2018 t6 transporter engine code CXGB with 118,000 on the clock van would crank but would not start, i was told to get the injectors tested as an independant mechanic said it sounded as if it was not getting fuel, got the injectors...

www.t6forum.com

Best regards
Mattias

 

[mmi]

Well, indeed desperate times. A crucial sensor for engine to run is crankshaft speed sensor (counterpart for camshaft sensor).
The crankshaft sensor was the culprit in the thread below - not a starting issue but causing intermittent power loss.

204 DSG intermittent momentary power loss

Hi all, Desperately looking for some assistance! I have a 2018 204 DSG high line. Had it from 8k miles, now has 82k on the clock. I’ve done all of the servicing and maintenance on it as I’m very mechanically minded and my business is automotive electrical design. However, I have a fault that I...

www.t6forum.com

 

[T6-transporter]

Thanks for the fast respons @mmi !
I did actually buy one crank speed sensor together with the camshaft sensor as well. I can give it a try to replace this one also, just to have it out of the calculations.
Not sure where it is places exactly, but I can have a look through the workshop manual to find out.

Do you have any suggestions to do some recording of data, or are my "Autocom" no good for this? As i said, usually do not work so much with newer cars because of the lack of experience/computers for them.

I also read through some thread that i might be a good idea to check for bad negative connection points on the car. Not sure where to start just if there is some regular places that i might start to corrode.
I have the car sitting like this for the moment to easier get to all the point for troubleshooting (attached photo). Forgot to mention, the car is from 2018.

I am thankful for all help and any thoughts!

Best regards
Mattias

 

[bluezie]

Has the camshaft been checked for spun lobes? As well as rollers breaking, the lobes can spin on the camshaft when a belt breaks.
If the cam sensor is out of time, you should get a 'no correlation' fault code, and if it's out by enough, the engine will not start to protect itself.
I've never heard of Autocom, so no idea of its capabilities, but you need something like VCDS that can 100% extract all fault codes, and do live data logging.

 

[T6-transporter]

Thanks for respons @bluezie! Well i checked the "sender" (not sure what it is called). It has not been moved on the camshaft, it is stuck. I tried to move it left/right and also up/down but it is solid.
I'm not sure that this is my issue, just a test i did since i read it somewhere.

I also have another system called Delphi, it is simular and works with "all cars". Have you heard about this one?

It is not sending me any fault codes expect for the "p056200". I'm guessing the vehicle computer won't LET the engine start, otherwise it would have tried to open the injectors. Might be an electric issue or a mechanic.

 

[T6-transporter]

Hello again,

Another update, sorry for the lazy work. Been struggling with some back pain and have not been able to get out of bed last week.

However, tried to replace the crank sensor but still does not want to fire up.
After my last try to remove the cam sensor, the car tried to open injectors and made an attempt to start. After some tries (probably 10-20) with the sensor removed, it stopped injecting and only ran the starter motor as before. Tried to erase all the fault codes but did not respond to that. Later on, remove the battery cable for 30 min and after that it did some new attempts to inject (strange in my point of view).

Today I finally narrowed it down some... I reread the other tread about non start (linked below) and felt that the cam sensor is doing something. I was interested to see if my cam shaft sender "somehow have moved" and that was the fault why it would not even try to open injectors.

Since i do not have the right VDCS, i just tried to adjust the cam belt, moved the cam shaft 1 tooth at the time in both directions to see what would happen.
As soon as i turn it 1-2 tooth back, it tries to fire up. Now the crank is at the right position but the cam locking tool can not be placed in since the diff.
It now tries to start, or at least give me some attempts (with cam sensor connected). I can see that the injectors are getting signal (by a lamp connected to one of the cables). It turns around to about 450rpm but does not really start up. Earlier with the "non injected phase", it just ran the RPMs to 230-250.

Did not have the time to play around too much. Could it be that somehow the engine has taken damage and (not sure how) "moved" the sender against the l"ocking pin" of the cam sprocket?
The exhaust cam is the one that i do lock with the locking tool, and what i can see, there is no chance for the inlet cam to move against the exhaust cam since they are fixed with gears against each other and unable to remove.

I wish i could provide you some good data logging to help out in this case but as i said, not the right computer tools..
Do anyone has any guess or heard of how it can not be in sync with crank/cam? Locking tools fits perfect and after 2 turns still fits good (before my adjustments for today).

Might it somehow has to be within a couple of degrees and when i turn mine 1 tooth it is too much. Might need to unloosen the cam sprocket to move it less than 1 tooth to see if it becomes better or not.

Really appreciate all replies and help of the this problem i got!!

Won’t start. No fault codes

Nice, if i disconnect camshaft sensor, engine will start so i quess camshaft module needs to be replaced. I couldn do it correctly. I have hex+can cable andwhile trying to "Tick "Group UDS requests" - by 7" it says i need new interface. So i got only 1 time logging whivh didnt show anything...

www.t6forum.com

 

[bluezie]

Without actually seeing your camshaft, it may be that the whole camshaft has slipped on the gears putting the valve timing and sensor timing out. I'm presuming that seeing as the cam lobes are pressed onto a steel shaft, the gears are too, and could be prone to spinning if the cam belt breaks?
The fact that it refuses to do anything when the belt timing is correct, and tries to fire when it's set wrong, really does point to a timing issue.

 

[Dellmassive]

Some nice work going on here.....

 

[aleix]

Hi, i have the same problem, i tried new HPFP, tank pump, new injectors, all new diesel sensors and won't start my van. I've coded a new engine computer and do the same... you have any solution for your van???
Thanks

 

[T6-transporter]

Hello @aleix

I have not yet completed the car. As you can see on my pictures i'm standing outside and it has been to cold for me to do any work on it.
My plan is to try to adjust the timing, try to get it closer and closer to where it starts.


When i put it in the right position, the car is not even trying to start.
When i put it in 1 tooth before/after the mark on camshaft, it does try to fire it, but not good enough.
So i will se if i can adjust the gear on the camshaft, so i can rotate it less than 1 tooth, hoping that i will find the perfect spot since i do not have the right equipment to see how the timing stands (true the computer, checking it against the rod).


I hope i have some time to start troubleshoot again with in the 2 common weeks. I'll get back to you as soon as i tried it.

Best regards
Mattias

 

[aleix]

Thanks Mattias i think thats fault comes from BCM (Body computer module)
I've meet tonight with another mechanic and they tells me this issue from BCM.
my timing was in the right position but when i've put ignition the fault P0087 comes in because they open the regulator valve in the diesel ramp and don't open the injectors.