Sterling PMS not charging when driving? [Resolved]

so the solar is showing 11.35v

but the sterling is showing 13.6v . .

they are not the same. . . ?

I'm wondering if the DC-DC leisure battery fuse is ok.

or have you got a multimeter to check the voltages?

id follow the wire back tio the leisure battery and check the fuse there. . .
 
Ok. Thanks so much. - no multimeter as at home - I’ve switched the fridge off now so I am getting the following readings and the battery is at least going in the right direction. Going to leave it like that for a few hours and see where it gets 1694432471257.png1694432471257.png
 
It looks like you may have one of the "all in one" power distribution systems fitted - you've not accidentally changed which battery is selected and running off the starter battery?
 
so a T6.1 then . . . . . .

this looks like it may be the dc-dc charger feed. . . there should be a fuse on this cable next to that battery?

got a pic of that?

View attachment 213269
Not for right now but an easy way of fixing the lack of fusing on a 6.1 is to move this feed to the plate fuse on top that has the two feeds already coming out.

Note the spare ways all seem 200A rated so would still be wise to put something in more rated to the cable size - but a quick change that's better than nothing whilst you get that done.


20230711_115821-jpg.205145
 
Not for right now but an easy way of fixing the lack of fusing on a 6.1 is to move this feed to the plate fuse on top that has the two feeds already coming out.

Note the spare ways all seem 200A rated so would still be wise to put something in more rated to the cable size - but a quick change that's better than nothing whilst you get that done.


20230711_115821-jpg.205145
the "Spare" fuses look like,?

400A - incoming feed

200A - spare?
200A - spare?
200A - spare?
100A - Used
100A - Used

but his cable looks about 30A max?

so he might need to add a second inline fuse to down rate from the 200A spare fuse.
 
I also think on the 6.1 the battery posts are so damn busy it's just tidier - and tidy wiring tends to be more reliable - which I assume is why VW put the new sort-of-fuse-box in.

Also the advantage of the top fuse plate thing is if you use that and the wing ground point you don't have to touch either battery post and risk accidentally removing all power to the electronics.

I think it's wise to treat any of those 100A+ feeds as you would a battery post
 
What's battery 2 on the display, starter battery?
On the Sterling panel the battery type shows as custom but is it a basic lead acid leisure battery you've got as I've killed a couple of those in 4 years of erratic charging.:cautious:
 
What's battery 2 on the display, starter battery?
On the Sterling panel the battery type shows as custom but is it a basic lead acid leisure battery you've got as I've killed a couple of those in 4 years of erratic charging.:cautious:
Hi. That’s just for another spare leisure battery if wired in. Hence 0%
 
It looks like you may have one of the "all in one" power distribution systems fitted - you've not accidentally changed which battery is selected and running off the starter battery?
It wouldn’t have been me if that had happened. Anyway I can check. ?
 
It wouldn’t have been me if that had happened. Anyway I can check. ?
If you have 2 wildly different voltage readings and you have 2 batteries my first thought is always check the reading is from the battery you think it is.
 
If you have 2 wildly different voltage readings and you have 2 batteries my first thought is always check the reading is from the battery you think it is.
No. Sorry. I only have one battery the second on the app is only a space ready for it if it’s installed.
 
Not the app, do you have any other controller linked to the 12v fuse distribution box?
 
@Stay Frosty comment reminded me of one of the things I don't like with the Sterlings and that is how they use the same banks of LEDs for several different things.

In your first picture of the Sterling with lights on if the Red LED was flashing then that was probably just after power up? In which case yes this is displaying your chargers charging profile and "custom" would be unusual if, as it appears, you've got a straight forward Lead Acid deep cycle battery.

In the second picture with lights on in the lower display you have a yellow and a green LED on - if they were both solid that just shows that the voltage is between the two but if the yellow was flashing that is an alarm condition of unexpectedly high voltage drop on the output to the battery.
 
@Stay Frosty comment reminded me of one of the things I don't like with the Sterlings and that is how they use the same banks of LEDs for several different things.

In your first picture of the Sterling with lights on if the Red LED was flashing then that was probably just after power up? In which case yes this is displaying your chargers charging profile and "custom" would be unusual if, as it appears, you've got a straight forward Lead Acid deep cycle battery.

In the second picture with lights on in the lower display you have a yellow and a green LED on - if they were both solid that just shows that the voltage is between the two but if the yellow was flashing that is an alarm condition of unexpectedly high voltage drop on the output to the battery.
Ah. Thanks. Yes it was just after switching on. And I don’t think the yellow was flashing just constant. But again just after switching on. I didn’t idle for very long when doing the pictures.
 
Ah. Thanks. Yes it was just after switching on. And I don’t think the yellow was flashing just constant. But again just after switching on. I didn’t idle for very long when doing the pictures.
Looking again at your pictures I don't think you have the voltage sense cable fitted so I don't think you'd get that alarm, but look like the temperature probe is fitted and an ignition sense wire.

I'm a little nervous that you don't seem the have the lower orange cover, that means it's potentially easy to catch the cabling or the setup buttons.

Has the battery been behaving as expected recently? How old is it?

I'm just wondering if age has brought the capacity of the battery right down, especially with the niggle of the charging profile being set to "custom"
 
Looking again at your pictures I don't think you have the voltage sense cable fitted so I don't think you'd get that alarm, but look like the temperature probe is fitted and an ignition sense wire.

I'm a little nervous that you don't seem the have the lower orange cover, that means it's potentially easy to catch the cabling or the setup buttons.

Has the battery been behaving as expected recently? How old is it?

I'm just wondering if age has brought the capacity of the battery right down, especially with the niggle of the charging profile being set to "custom"
Hi. Roadtripper. The battery has been in since new and I’ve had the van two years - I have a a couple of issues with electrics which have been put right. One loose connection and one failed solar panel. Obviously the battery may have been under charged at those two points. I generally go on hook up and don’t use the van as a daily drive. I have suspected that the battery doesn’t get a charge when driving but never really bottomed it out until this long drive and the an attempt to go off grid for one of the first times thank you.
 
If it's never charged properly I'd consider changing the charge profile in the Sterling to one of the conventional ones.

If you don't have a copy of the Sterling manual with the van paperwork this should be the one:

One quick thing to check looking at those you should be able to briefly press the blue SETUP button to wake the unit up even if the engine isn't running, and a second brief press should get the unit to display any alarm or status lights.
 
If it's never charged properly I'd consider changing the charge profile in the Sterling to one of the conventional ones.

If you don't have a copy of the Sterling manual with the van paperwork this should be the one:

One quick thing to check looking at those you should be able to briefly press the blue SETUP button to wake the unit up even if the engine isn't running, and a second brief press should get the unit to display any alarm or status lights.
Ah that sounds an easy way of trying to make a difference. Would you suggest a good one to try?
 
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