Splicing into existing speakers for amp

[jamiesmack]

I am fitting an active sub to my factory head unit. I have been told to run speaker wire from the high level on the amp, and splice / connect to the existing speaker cables.

is it best to do this at the back of the head unit, or should I pick up the speaker cables somewhere else?

I’m guessing I also need to connect a remote wire. Any recommendations where to connect that to?

 

[Deaky]

I am fitting an active sub to my factory head unit. I have been told to run speaker wire from the high level on the amp, and splice / connect to the existing speaker cables.

is it best to do this at the back of the head unit, or should I pick up the speaker cables somewhere else?

I’m guessing I also need to connect a remote wire. Any recommendations where to connect that to?

There is no remote out from the head unit. Best you’ll get is ign live or a separate remote sense module

 

[Howzat]

I've just done the exact same job this weekend. What I did instead of splicing to the existing wiring was to buy a pre wired ISO connector and then de-pinned 4 of the connectors using a small screw driver and used these to attach to the sub speaker wires which I then connected to the unused rear connectors of the head unit.
For the ignition live I followed the advice @Deaky gave in this post which works fine although I will be getting a remote sense module (High level to RCA converter with remote sensing) so I can have the sub running when the head unit is on without any key inserted.

ISO CONNECTOR



PINS FOR REAR SPEAKERS

 

[jamiesmack]

Brilliant thanks for the help.

so @Howzat would these pins be ok?

16-Pin Male ISO Terminal Block Socket Connector Plug Repair Kit 16-Pin Male ISO Terminal Block Socket Connector Plug Repair Kit: Amazon.co.uk: Car & Motorbike

 

[jamiesmack]

Also,I don’t really follow with the fuse. I have run a live cable from the battery to the amp. Do you then run the signal wire to the fuse box? Please excuse the stupid questions

 

[Howzat]

Brilliant thanks for the help.

so @Howzat would these pins be ok?

16-Pin Male ISO Terminal Block Socket Connector Plug Repair Kit 16-Pin Male ISO Terminal Block Socket Connector Plug Repair Kit: Amazon.co.uk: Car & Motorbike

Spot on. If you can just get those pins for cheaper then you could crimp those straight onto the subs speaker wire.

Also,I don’t really follow with the fuse. I have run a live cable from the battery to the amp. Do you then run the signal wire to the fuse box? Please excuse the stupid questions

It's perfectly reasonable because I forgot to mention that you need to use a piggy back fuse holder. You simply remove the fuse you want ignition live from (5 down on the right from memory) then plug 2x 5amp fuses into the piggy then connect the wire coming from the piggy to your subs remote wire then plug the piggy back into the fuse board.

Just a heads up too. Disconnect the battery before removing the quad lock connector from the head unit. TBH it's safest to do this when doing anything electrical on the van.

 

[jamiesmack]

Amazing. Thank you for your help. Just to clarify, is this in addition to the main live wire direct from the battery, or instead of?

 

[Howzat]

In addition. Happy to help.

 

[jamiesmack]

@Howzat it appears I’ve ordered the wrong size piggy back & fuses. I’ve got the same as the larger ones below. Would either of the 5a fuses down there be suitable do you know?

 

[Howzat]

I'm not sure tbh @jamiesmack. There might be an ignition live down there but using the info from this forum the best fuse is the mini fuse 5th down on the right because this fuse stays live even when the ignition is turned off with the key until you remove the key from the ignition switch. This allows the sub to replicate how the head unit works. As far as I know any other ignition live needs the key to be turned to on. ie engine running or dash lights lit up.