I just wanted to check, as the bounce back sounded similar to what happens with power-latching (the one without the button) and it looks like some people have assumed that this was the issue. I’ll tidy the thread. Glad yours got sorted.
Sliding Door Problem - rear won’t latch.
- Thread starter PoNvs
- Start date
It's precisely because I could foresee an issue like this that power sliding wasn't on my list at all. However, the "van" had most of the other things on my "must have" list, so I went for it. Not bothered really about power sliding, but since it's there I want it working - if not just because the door's stiff to close manually!
Geoff&Julia
New Member
Having had issues with a T5.1 with electric sliding door I can sympathise. My understanding is that the door also detects an obstruction by monitoring the current taken by the electric motor which drives the wire that drags the door, (I feel like then saying ”that makes the thingamebob”, but never mind).
So, if you’ve grit or nasty stuff in the channel where the bottom roller runs that can cause it to automatically reopen.
Thus the first thing I’d do in your shoes is clean out the channel carefully. It’s a bit of a bitch getting all the way in at the front and the rear, which I needed to do as some lovely person had previously spread a load of grease in there which had hardened to something approaching candle wax. For info I found getting the roller off for cleaning/replacement stupidly easy - do take note of where the bolts are on the bottom bracket though before you unscrew them, a photo will do.
The second thing I’d do is to see if holding down the door button on either the dash or the remote whilst the door closes makes a difference. My understanding is that doing that decreases the sensitivity of the system to obstructions, hence overcoming my hardened grease sometimes. A pain but if it gets it closed when you need it whilst you are still investigating that might help.
So, if you’ve grit or nasty stuff in the channel where the bottom roller runs that can cause it to automatically reopen.
Thus the first thing I’d do in your shoes is clean out the channel carefully. It’s a bit of a bitch getting all the way in at the front and the rear, which I needed to do as some lovely person had previously spread a load of grease in there which had hardened to something approaching candle wax. For info I found getting the roller off for cleaning/replacement stupidly easy - do take note of where the bolts are on the bottom bracket though before you unscrew them, a photo will do.
The second thing I’d do is to see if holding down the door button on either the dash or the remote whilst the door closes makes a difference. My understanding is that doing that decreases the sensitivity of the system to obstructions, hence overcoming my hardened grease sometimes. A pain but if it gets it closed when you need it whilst you are still investigating that might help.
Paul Mason
New Member
My T6.1 is 2800miles old. Whilst driving the drivers side door, with power latching, triggered and the door opened. When I stopped the door slammed shut jamming the lock in the open position. Its on the back of a truck with the door ducktaped closed, off to the garage. I'll see what they have to say. Very shocked that it could open on its own, luckily there were no kids in the back
Alastair Beckett
New Member
Just jumping on this as I had the same issue and it is now fixed.
(edit: this is a NON Power Latching Door. Just standard mechanical latch)
T6 rear sliding door refusing to close and latch. It was just bouncing back open no matter how slow or fast I closed it.
It turned out to be a snag in the cable connecting the handle mechanism at the front of the door with the latch mechanism at the rear.
I had ordered a replacement latch after reading some of the comments that it is likley to develop a fault, and only when I was in the process of installing this did I discover that there was no issue with the original latch, other than something was stopping the cable from returning to its normal rest position. It was sticking around half way (creating slack in the handle too so look out for that as a sign).
Once I unbolted the latch from the door itself and pressed the lock mechanism (silver part connected to the cable) it returned to its normal home position and the latch stayed in the locked position.
I reinstalled all the original parts and the door now closes and latches perfectly again.
I hope this helps.
(Photo shows the Silver return mechanism which in in the correct position in the photo. It was stopping half way through its stroke and that stopped the latch from securing the door, which resulted in the door bouncing back open every time.)
(edit: this is a NON Power Latching Door. Just standard mechanical latch)
T6 rear sliding door refusing to close and latch. It was just bouncing back open no matter how slow or fast I closed it.
It turned out to be a snag in the cable connecting the handle mechanism at the front of the door with the latch mechanism at the rear.
I had ordered a replacement latch after reading some of the comments that it is likley to develop a fault, and only when I was in the process of installing this did I discover that there was no issue with the original latch, other than something was stopping the cable from returning to its normal rest position. It was sticking around half way (creating slack in the handle too so look out for that as a sign).
Once I unbolted the latch from the door itself and pressed the lock mechanism (silver part connected to the cable) it returned to its normal home position and the latch stayed in the locked position.
I reinstalled all the original parts and the door now closes and latches perfectly again.
I hope this helps.
(Photo shows the Silver return mechanism which in in the correct position in the photo. It was stopping half way through its stroke and that stopped the latch from securing the door, which resulted in the door bouncing back open every time.)
Shut overnight* (apologies sausage fingers)
I’m sorry to reopen this thread. Twin slider. Drivers slider not latching. It’s a power door but I’m also not hearing the motor driving the door open or closed. Fob not working. Dash not working. Any ideas how I can physically close the door so it doesn’t look like it’s unlatched? TIA
You cant without the motor pulling in the reset the latch position
If its totally stopped and wont do anything your only option is to remove the doorcard and manually activate the latch by physically pulling the bowden cable, you should be able to pull the bowden cable and reset the motor position so the latch is held in the closed position
If its totally stopped and wont do anything your only option is to remove the doorcard and manually activate the latch by physically pulling the bowden cable, you should be able to pull the bowden cable and reset the motor position so the latch is held in the closed position
Thanks Pauly. I’ve a bit of a problem in that I can’t get to the door card when the door is closed as it’s a camper conversion. I’m not entirely sure I know what cable I need to pull? Is that an electrical cable or a physical one? I can try and prise what fixings I can from the door card to get to the inner workings but it sounds like it’s a Dealer job. Do you know where the fuse is for the motor? I haven’t checked that yet.
Thanks Pauly. Is there any danger I won’t be able to open the door again once it’s latched? As the kitchen is fitted into the van it would be nearly impossible to get to the inside of the door once closed. Thanks again.
Thanks Pauly. I think the issue is the motor as it’s not making any noise at all. As there’s a kitchen unit in the way I can’t get to the inside of the skin inside of the van to remove and replace it. I think the closing sensor is away too. It is going into VW on Monday and if they can remove part of the lock and force the motor round to the open position I should be able to close the door. If not it’s going to have to have the kitchen ripped out and then fixed. This van is definitely the gift that keeps on giving.
