RVC cable run interference [RESOLVED]

[KR.]

I'm having ongoing issues installing a reversing camera, current state of play is cable run into rear light cluster down underneath the van above the underside trim panels and up through the engine bay. The work has been done by the garage and they've chosen that route as the van is already carpeted, lined and converted etc. The camera works until the engine is switched on and about 3 seconds later is unviewable due to interference/flicker - perhaps because the video cable has been routed alongside what I think is the DC charger cable through the engine bulkhead into the dash. We need another route into the dash. I'd also prefer less of the video cable in a hot engine bay, the cable doesn't feel very robust or protective against heat and being tiewrapped to metalwork in here has the potential to go wrong.

Given where the cable is already it would be simplest to bring it up into the cabin somewhere in the front passenger seat area, there's the plastic step and large rubber door seal there to hide the cable behind, from there it's easy enough to get into the dash. It isn't as simple as drilling down through the sill to the underside below the plastic step though is it? I take it theres a gap between the upper and lower layers of bodywork below here? I'd rather not reroute the cable entirely and as we've proven that the camera actually works we just need to reroute/protect the front cable run and I think we've solved it.

Advice?

SOLUTION
This was resolved by rerouting into the cabin via the grommet under the passenger seat and installing the filter shown above. The picture is now stable, lights on or off....

 

[DXX]

If you have paid a garage to install it and it doesn't work correctly they need to correct it at their cost.

 

[KR.]

Yes, I get that but it doesn't really give me any answers regarding the cable run ...

 

[rod_vw]

From behind the dash, down and under the front floor mat then if there is no way through the habitation area without a lot of dismantling go out under the van via one of the grommets that exist under either front seat. I guess that will put you close to where the garage have come from the rear. You may have to take the front seats and seat boxes out to get the cable neatly under the floor mat or you may be able to 'fish' it without.

Otherwise up one of the A pillars, under the headlining and along the roof edge if there is a way without too much disturbance of fittings & upholstery in the back. You should be able to find a way down to the back corner amongst your fittings?

 

[Niknak]

I’ve just done mine and it’s all converted had no issues and mine has a bonded down floor, sorry to be rude but this route they’ve taken sounds crap ? Have you tried putting a ferrite core on the cable, they also have more than likely picked up in a feed possible glow plug if comes on and goes off

 

[KR.]

@rod_vw , I think the grommet under the seat is my way ahead. I've got a swivel with the lockable safe base so it's all fairly easily removed. In fact I think I'll force the issue by asking them to do it this way.

Once the seat is removed is the grommet visible or do I have to look about under the vinyl flooring, I remember a squarish section of vinyl that lifts up right in the centre of the floor under the base, is it there? Assuming the underside plastic panel is removed is any cable fed through easily accessible from below?

@Niknak , I was polite with the garage last night but wasn't pleased at all. It's frustrating to wait so long to get things done and they don't get done. This has been dragging on for six months, I've used two garages and I've bought two cameras, the first was installed by the converters prior to the conversion being done to avoid this very situation...

 

[Niknak]

@rod_vw , I think the grommet under the seat is my way ahead. I've got a swivel with the lockable safe base so it's all fairly easily removed. In fact I think I'll force the issue by asking them to do it this way.

Once the seat is removed is the grommet visible or do I have to look about under the vinyl flooring, I remember a squarish section of vinyl that lifts up right in the centre of the floor under the base, is it there? Assuming the underside plastic panel is removed is any cable fed through easily accessible from below?

@Niknak , I was polite with the garage last night but wasn't pleased at all. It's frustrating to wait so long to get things done and they don't get done. This has been dragging on for six months, I've used two garages and I've bought two cameras, the first was installed by the converters prior to the conversion being done to avoid this very situation...

I feel for you there are some right muppets out there claiming they can do stuff, does my head in cause give all us techs a bad name

 

[KR.]

Here's a (blurry sorry) picture of the underseat area when I installed the single swivel, where would the access grommet be?

 

[Niknak]

Should be under that matting if I remember correctly

 

[KR.]

Van back from the garage (different garage, unrelated matter!) and I've whipped the seat off and found the rubber grommet leading below - plum centre of the square cut out under the centre of the seat base - there are some wires coming out of it but I removed it and looked below, couldn't see much so stuck a screw driver down into the void below, it doesn't go freely down as there is another surface blocking it, possibly plastic going by the noise but the screwriver doesn't go down near far enough for that to be the top of the trim panel underneath. I've got an Adblue tank if that's any help and I'm hoping it isn't that that's blocking it. As an aside if I can get through this (final?) obstacle then to cable from here into the dash is easy.

How would I get a wire through that panel/skin to underneath the van so if I remove the trim panel it's there waving at me?

 

[Niknak]

I would get a long cable tie cut the square end off and tightly tape the wire to that end and use the pointy end as a needle and poke it through frantically and randomly swearing until you can just reach it with the tips of your fingers just enough to aggrivate you then stop have a cup of tea and it will go straight in the second time

 

[KR.]

Thanks Niknak that sounds like my usual method of working. I've ordered one of those wireless inspection cameras that use your phone and I'll have a good look inside the void to see where to go.

 

[Niknak]

Yeah but what void lol I got one of those at work hours of fun some even work related

 

[Wombat]

I fitted my reverse camera and had the flicker. Nothing to do with cable, you need to install a small relay as the rear lights give the flicker due to the voltage changing when switch on. I think it cost £5 from Amazon 12v Car Power Filter Reverse Camera Power Rectifier Power Relay Capacitor Filter Suppressor for Car Backup Camera

 

[KR.]

Thanks Wombat, the garage is ordering a new cable and we're rerouting through the seat grommet, I've got this page bookmarked until it's complete, but I think I'm looking at a week or so. Was this the relay Amazon relay ? Where exactly does it get wired in?

 

[Pauly]

I would agree with @Wombat and suspect the supply is giving you the fault, its quite a common problem
Many people tap into the cable for the reverse light to power the camera but this cable gets a pulsed voltage on it from the canbus system (to detect lamp failures) and most cameras dont like this voltage fluctuation
I would try running the camera with a clean 12 volt supply and see what the picture is like

 

[Niknak]

Are your rear lights led as may be pwm so not a constant 12 volt that may be why you have to put a relay in, cause I run my camera as a rear view mirror I have it on ignition feed so hadn’t come across this

 

[Wombat]

The relay is fitted between the camera and the reversing light wireing in the light cluster at the rear. The pulsing happens when the lights are on. The relay is very simple to fit and cost £5.59 via Amazon.

 

[Niknak]

Yeah it’s a smoother basically

 

[KR.]

Thanks all, I'm not on LED rear lights. I've ordered up one of the relays in case, it won't break the bank if I don't need it. I'll report back either way.