Reversing Camera - wiring harness route
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Again sorry if stupid questions.
Like i say, even if don’t DIY, be useful if I can be explicit with electrician as to what I need.
I am hoping if can bundle in with a few other bits may make worth their time (for instance the usb and 12v in centre of dash seem to be lacking power, presume as owner before swapped out headhunt) and nice idea in the birch over thread you signposted to of a simple rocker switch in sliding door area to turn hab lights on.
All help from all is very much appreciated. I am learning A LOT
Like i say, even if don’t DIY, be useful if I can be explicit with electrician as to what I need.
I am hoping if can bundle in with a few other bits may make worth their time (for instance the usb and 12v in centre of dash seem to be lacking power, presume as owner before swapped out headhunt) and nice idea in the birch over thread you signposted to of a simple rocker switch in sliding door area to turn hab lights on.
All help from all is very much appreciated. I am learning A LOT
Yep, you'd tap off one of the ignition switched feeds in the front fusebox to sense ignition.
Are the moulded on connectors proper taps or do they expect to be in a free socket?
Like this so you can put the original fuse for a circuit in and the fuse for your additional circuit
@Chris1983
@Camper_Chris has picked up a rear feed and fitted a rear dash cam with an added switch on his Birchover.
Post in thread 'Hillside Birchover'
Hillside Birchover
@Camper_Chris has picked up a rear feed and fitted a rear dash cam with an added switch on his Birchover.
Post in thread 'Hillside Birchover'
Hillside Birchover
Yes, I might be confusing you by using that as an example and dipping / skimming in and out of this thread as that isn’t what you are fitting, but it shows how you can route from the rear cupboard over to the rear window.
Routing from the rear cupboard to the drivers side B pillar shouldn‘t be that difficult.
There is both a hinged (2 screws) access panel at the back of the side cupboard under the worktop and a lift out panel in the base of the same cupboard. You can reach through between these to the rear cupboard and should be able to fish a wire through behind the fridge to the B pillar, down to the floor and across the step and up the A pillar.
So this is the route I’d take with the wiring between the front and rear Dashcam.
Then it’s a case of powering the front Dashcam from your leisure battery for the permanent feed and also an ignition powered feed from your starter battery (there are posts on here about what fuse to pick up on for the ignition feed).
Add a switch inline for the leisure battery feed (as per previous posts), so you can stop draining the leisure battery when you don’t want the dashcam running when parked up.
What age is your Birchover?
As an aside I’ve found the Hillside wiring diagram to be inaccurate.
On mine, originally the factory leisure battery under the passenger seat was fused with a 40A blade fuse (as per the Hillside diagram) which was located towards one end of the VW factory fuse holder at the front of the passenger seat. The fused wire from this then went across between the seats over to the drivers side, up the B pillar and along behind the cupboards to the rear cupboard (which you have exposed) and feeds the input to the CBE fuse block.
Additionally your VW cab 12v sockets will either both be powered from the leisure battery or one of them will be: This is dependant on age (I believe it changed changed on the T6.1)
So, if you want to get a permanent leisure battery feed then these are the easiest places you can potentially take a fused spur from.
Or you could bring a new fused connection straight from the leisure battery.
Hope some of that helps and doesn’t just confuse.
This is really helpful but yes, had to read three times.
Only one of the 12v cig lighters on dash works, I think the usb and the 12v cig lighter nearest the gear stick is dead as aftermarket head unit installed by previous owners.
Is there a way if I can work out of remaining 12v is run from starter or leisure? That could solve a lot of problems?!
Only one of the 12v cig lighters on dash works, I think the usb and the 12v cig lighter nearest the gear stick is dead as aftermarket head unit installed by previous owners.
Is there a way if I can work out of remaining 12v is run from starter or leisure? That could solve a lot of problems?!
Simplest way:
Do you have a voltmeter?
Or one of those plug in 12v voltage monitors?
The voltage to the leisure battery will rise when on EHU as the charger kicks in.
You can confirm that by measuring / monitoring the rear 12V socket.
Measure the voltage when EHU is connected and when it’s disconnected.
Now do the same check at front cab socket.
if there’s no voltage change at the 12v socket when on and off EHU then it won’t be wired to the leisure battery, but if it behaves the same as the rear 12v socket then it will be.
Do you have a voltmeter?
Or one of those plug in 12v voltage monitors?
The voltage to the leisure battery will rise when on EHU as the charger kicks in.
You can confirm that by measuring / monitoring the rear 12V socket.
Measure the voltage when EHU is connected and when it’s disconnected.
Now do the same check at front cab socket.
if there’s no voltage change at the 12v socket when on and off EHU then it won’t be wired to the leisure battery, but if it behaves the same as the rear 12v socket then it will be.
Wicked. Will confirm.
Presumably if 12v cig lighter is run from leisure battery in cab, that simplifies things, eg, allows me to run a lead to a starter fuse, a lead to wherever the 12v cig fuses from leisure and earth on chassis. That then simply leaves me routing rear camera lead and splicing to reverse light?
Presumably if 12v cig lighter is run from leisure battery in cab, that simplifies things, eg, allows me to run a lead to a starter fuse, a lead to wherever the 12v cig fuses from leisure and earth on chassis. That then simply leaves me routing rear camera lead and splicing to reverse light?
Yes, mines a 2023 Birchover; both of my 12V cab sockets were factory wired to the leisure battery.
The only minor complication might be that the fuse (20A) for the cab sockets was under the passenger seat (on mine), which would complicate routing back to that fuse. If that’s the case then it would be easier to properly split the wire nearer to the 12V socket with a decent double bullet crimp connector and take off a fused spur. Just don’t use those horrible push through blade type connectors that Halfords sell as they are awful rubbish.
I thus presume I am back to first plan.
Either-
A) run off starter battery with supplied live fuse kit (which does has low voltage protection)
B) find a way to run off leisure
Both solutions require me to route rear camera cable though driver side cupboards or above sliding door void.
I know the leisure is charged via alternator.
Does anyone know if the reverse occurs (forward planning for solar) does the solar looking after hab battery automatically feed into starter or is that a daft question?
Either-
A) run off starter battery with supplied live fuse kit (which does has low voltage protection)
B) find a way to run off leisure
Both solutions require me to route rear camera cable though driver side cupboards or above sliding door void.
I know the leisure is charged via alternator.
Does anyone know if the reverse occurs (forward planning for solar) does the solar looking after hab battery automatically feed into starter or is that a daft question?
You (and your wife!) have confirmed that your working 12V cab socket is from the starter battery.
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