[Resolved] Dometic fridge powered but no cooling

Photohonesty

Photohonesty

New Member
Hi we are new to campers and the forum - our fridge was working but now isn’t cooling and lit up with every warning light known to human kind. We’ve used it both with mains hook up and leisure battery. The instruction book seems useless. Just wondered if this was maybe something obvious that you guys had seen before. The only thing that’s changed is that we had a dead battery on the T6 that was replaced. Little video attached thanks folks :)DBB028A1-3CA0-44CD-8B40-BFC57F358E4D.jpeg
 
We had same issue. Disconnect power supply to the fridge for about 5 minutes. Re-connect and turn on again. Fingers crossed it helps. We havent had issues since. Bear in mind the amber compressor light you have on will only turn blue when the compressor is actually running, so dont panic!
 
Big Al said:
We had same issue. Disconnect power supply to the fridge for about 5 minutes. Re-connect and turn on again. Fingers crossed it helps. We havent had issues since. Bear in mind the amber compressor light you have on will only turn blue when the compressor is actually running, so dont panic!
Click to expand...
Cheers Al we’ll try that as it’s properly boxed in should we disconnect the van and leisure batteries to remove all power ?
 
When you say dead battery that was replaced do you mean the vehicle battery or the leisure battery?
assuming you mean leisure then is it fully charged and is the charger working (why did it die in the first place).
sorry it’s so many questions but these fridges are, on start up, power hungry and a discharged battery and/or faulty charger could mean the compressor not wanting to start.
 
The vehicle battery has no part to play (unless your control panel has a switch to select which battery to use) Ensure if you have this switch you have selected leisure battery.
The fridge will be connected to the leisure battery which, in turn, will be connected to a charger which will be connected to the mains hook up.
if you connect to the mains then turn on the charger it should a)charge the leisure battery and b) power the fridge
What voltage is showing on the leisure battery when not connected and when on mains?
a photo of your control panel and charger box would help if you can post these (or the make and model)
I am suspecting it’s low voltage causing the problem and that’s the easiest element to check out first.
 
Photohonesty said:
Cheers Al we’ll try that as it’s properly boxed in should we disconnect the van and leisure batteries to remove all power ?
Click to expand...
Just leisure battery should be the normal place, check the fridge doesnt turn on when you disconnect leisure batt. just to double check
 
Most important question - what voltage is your leisure battery providing.

Pete
 
Measuring the leisure battery voltage is a good start but better done with load applied, lights and whatever else is easily activated.
Next step is to measure the voltage at the fridge terminals, there have been previous cases where there has been a large DC drop due to excessive cable lengths, wrong cross section cable used and poor connections.
It’s good practice with DC to keep the cable lengths as short as possible to reduce the voltage drop due to resistance, this includes using a local earth point.
The fridge may have been working OK before but the set up may have been on the limit and it’s now dropped below the required voltage at the fridge terminals.
Some good info here

Cable Size Calculator - Cable sizing and selection | 12 Volt Planet

Cable Size Calculator - Read our guide to selecting cable of the correct type and size for your automotive, marine or leisure wiring application. Auto and Marine Electrical Components from 12 Volt Planet
www.12voltplanet.co.uk
 
DXX said:
Measuring the leisure battery voltage is a good start but better done with load applied, lights and whatever else is easily activated.
Next step is to measure the voltage at the fridge terminals, there have been previous cases where there has been a large DC drop due to excessive cable lengths, wrong cross section cable used and poor connections.
It’s good practice with DC to keep the cable lengths as short as possible to reduce the voltage drop due to resistance, this includes using a local earth point.
The fridge may have been working OK before but the set up may have been on the limit and it’s now dropped below the required voltage at the fridge terminals.
Some good info here

Cable Size Calculator - Cable sizing and selection | 12 Volt Planet

Cable Size Calculator - Read our guide to selecting cable of the correct type and size for your automotive, marine or leisure wiring application. Auto and Marine Electrical Components from 12 Volt Planet
www.12voltplanet.co.uk
Click to expand...
Hi DXX it was all working fine previously and the conversion was done by a good firm so should be ok. Here is the panel 66193433-2E00-4577-B3BB-BC0E9B21D940.jpeg
 
Here’s the thing I turn the panel off and the fridge still has power - I’ve just disconnected the leisure battery and will leave for 5 mins as suggested by Al to see if it resets.
 
Photohonesty said:
Here’s the thing I turn the panel off and the fridge still has power - I’ve just disconnected the leisure battery and will leave for 5 mins as suggested by Al to see if it resets.
Click to expand...
Yup that’s right, the fridge is wired directly to the battery not the panel so it will be permanently live
 
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