Replacing 12v Constant with Ignition Live?

tim_T6

New Member
I've got a dash cam to install in my T6, it's a fairly simple system, receives power from a 12v source, and turns on/starts recording when it receives power, and turns off when it doesn't.

Unfortunately I found out this morning that both 12v ports in the cabin are constant live, meaning the dash cam will remain on all of the time draining the battery, unless I manually pull the power everytime I get out of the van, a little annoying.

Does anyone know of a simple way to re-wire one of the 12v outlets to receive ignition live so that it turns on and off with the ignition?

I have basic knowledge of electrics, but could crimp a cable to another if pointed in the right direction.

Thanks in advance!
 
The fusebox in lower dash under radio has a 12V ignition rail, it's the small fuses in the centre row, you would need to remove a bit of dash trim to get a wire down there though so may be easier to pick up something behind radio I'm assuming there will be a 12v switched into the rear of that
Personally I would avoid altering the factory wiring too much just in case something goes wrong and affects warranty, Sod's law says it'll bite you in the ass
 
Can't imagine T6 will be too different to T5 in this regard. I'm in process of doing this exact thing to my T5.

As Pauly says, middle row of mini fuses in fusebox in lower dash under radio/heater controls. In T5 it's accessed via a screw and the panel pops down. I'm using the 'fuse 19' idea (google it) using a piggyback fuse holder. Completely reversible, i.e. no hacking into wires. I'm going to feed this into my glovebox to feed a twin 12v outlet into which I'll plug my 2 dashcams. I still want the ability to swap them back into the constant lives for times I want to use their 'parking mode' (motion detection) as their in-built batteries are crap.

Not to promote another forum, but I got the info from this thread: LINK
 
Thanks for your replies, exactly what I was after!

So presumably I can just use one of the free fuse ports in the middle row (in my T6 case, 34,35,36) and insert a piggy back fuse?

Then tap into the - on the existing 12v wiring to finish it off?

Whilst I'm here, what is the - wire on a 12v plug? The tip or the surround (or j
 
Centre point is always +ve
Surround is always -ve
Check in your fusebox that the spare ways actually have an insert to connect fuse into, some of them are just empty plastic holes, as long as you have the insert on the right, the feed side, you will be fine
 
I never found the fuse for the 12v sockets, T6 don't include a layout diagram in the manual.....
 
Lower dash fusebox - fuse 49, doesnt state if its both though
 
Hi, sorry to resurrect an old thread however this almost answers a question I have, but not quite...

I’m in the process of installing airlift management in my T6 and need a ‘true’ switched live, I.e. one that will stay live even when cracking the engine. Will the spare ports in the middle row do this?

Thanks, Andy
 
bloomin VW why do they not show a fuse diagram/list of what fuse covers what ?????
Cos they don’t want you in there messing..

Apparently it is now a warning offence for a vw tech to tell a customer what any fuse does.

There are fuse layouts in the VIP download area ;)
 
Cos they don’t want you in there messing..

Apparently it is now a warning offence for a vw tech to tell a customer what any fuse does.

There are fuse layouts in the VIP download area ;)

I still think this is a little mad! Surely if something has stopped working you need to know which fuse is which so you can replace. Bloody VW are too secretive!
 
I have been in the Motor trade for over 40 years, one of the most basic things on a vehicle to do yourself is change a fuse yet VW think its good practice to make this simple task as difficult as possible, they dont even tell you which fuse box covers the different items that are fused let alone a numbered list etc.

WELL DONE VW !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Thanks for all this useful(-ish) information :)

I have a May 2018 plate Transporter Shuttle and wanted an ignition switched 12v supply to operate a relay so that certain items (some LED lighting in the rear passenger compartment and a 240v inverter) are only powered when the ignition is on.

I looked at the middle row of "mini" fuses under the lower dashboard cover and found that the right -hand of the unused fuse sockets are fed with an ignition switched 12v which stays on even when the engine is cranked!

I found for sale in my local shop a mini-blade fuse adapter with a "beak-out" lead. This has two mini-blade fuses one so you can take a fuse out and replace it with the adapter and the second one is for protecting the break-out lead.

After removing the front bench seat retaining nuts I moved it back and was able to run the lead down under the carpet so it comes out just between the seats.

I took a 35amp fused feed from the really thick bunch of 12v leads that were supplying the fuses in the centre of the passenger seat and fed that to a plastic box that I made up with a 12v relay and 6 pairs of red & black 4mm "banana" sockets, 3 pairs switched and 3 pairs permanently powered, which sits on the floor between the driver's seat and passenger bench seat. I took the -ve lead straight to the passenger seat fixing bolts.

With the fused breakout lead operating the 12v relay, hey presto the relay stays on even during engine cranking.

Just perfect for what I needed.
 
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