PPV/Vinyl recommendation for flexible solar install

peteaufc

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I'm looking to install a Renogy 200w semi-flexible solar panel (that I've already purchased) on my HiLo poptop roof.

As the flexible panel may need replaced at some point in the future in keen to fit it using a wrap on the roof first.

The roof is ridged so (based on all the reading of threads that I've done on here and other research) my current plan firsr wrap a section of the roof (2m x 1.5m) with a clear PPF (looking at this one: Car Paint Protection ) and then bond twinwall polycarbonate strips on to fill the gaps/ridges. I would then bond the panel (approx 1.6m x 0.8m) on to the flat surface that would be left.

I've read about lightly sanding and panel wiping the surface of the wrap before any bonding.

A few questions/checks:
1. Is it OK to just wrap the section of the roof that the panel is going to be bonded to, rather than the whole roof?
2. How do people attach the vinyl/PPF - any adhesive?
3. Does that PPF look suitable for this purpose? If not, any better recommendations?
4. What is the best/proven method of bonding the panel - 3M EHB tape or Sikafix?

Any advice or pointers regarding any of this would be much appreciated. I want to make sure and get the panel bonded correctly, for obvious reasons...
 
In regards to the vinyl, most wrap of the decent vinyls are air release now you want wrap vinyl not a standard vinyl. These require no adhesive just release the liner and apply.

Clear PPF would require a slip solution to apply and can not be done dry.

Doing a small area is not a problem in either.

I’ve never stuck anything to vinyl or PPF larger than a car/van emblem so I can’t point you in the right direction here.

If I was you I’d use vinyl over PPF as the installation is far easier.
 
I'm looking to install a Renogy 200w semi-flexible solar panel (that I've already purchased) on my HiLo poptop roof.

As the flexible panel may need replaced at some point in the future in keen to fit it using a wrap on the roof first.

The roof is ridged so (based on all the reading of threads that I've done on here and other research) my current plan firsr wrap a section of the roof (2m x 1.5m) with a clear PPF (looking at this one: Car Paint Protection ) and then bond twinwall polycarbonate strips on to fill the gaps/ridges. I would then bond the panel (approx 1.6m x 0.8m) on to the flat surface that would be left.

I've read about lightly sanding and panel wiping the surface of the wrap before any bonding.

A few questions/checks:
1. Is it OK to just wrap the section of the roof that the panel is going to be bonded to, rather than the whole roof?
2. How do people attach the vinyl/PPF - any adhesive?
3. Does that PPF look suitable for this purpose? If not, any better recommendations?
4. What is the best/proven method of bonding the panel - 3M EHB tape or Sikafix?

Any advice or pointers regarding any of this would be much appreciated. I want to make sure and get the panel bonded correctly, for obvious reasons...
sound all good. . .


1 - yes wrap the panel size, or just larger than the panel size,

2- the vinyl is self adhesive, just remove the backing ( as @Petezum says above )

3 - pass

4 - any of those, plus HD velcro.


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the main thing for long life is to fill in the roof ridges to stop uneven expansion an movenet while its in use getting hot/cold etc . . .


that's what causes then to fail prematurely due to incorrect installation.


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more info here:





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photonic universe

12V solar panels charging kits for caravans, motorhomes, boats, yachts, marine

an interesting read from PU with the install PDF:

http://www.photonicuniverse.com/upl...r-Panels-Handling-And-Installation-Manual.pdf

not to sure on the exact definition of:

"If the surface is uneven, it must be suitably prepared prior to installation, with all gaps being filled in For example, spaces between ridges on a vehicle roof must first be filled in before the solar panel is mounted."

ridge gaps filled with what exactly? . . . . . cream cheese? body filler? lump of wood? styro-foam? - im just gonna leave them open. the panel feels ridged enough i think.

my plan is to leave the ridge gaps open to the air . . . . . . or more than likley ill just run an additional bead of skilaflex down them lonways to give some additional support.

i think the main issue is when people fully-seal-all-round which causes air pockets and water ingress that can heat-up in extreme weather and bubble up the panel . . . . . . im hoping by leaving the lower ridges open, and at the rear that this will not be an issue. sealing all rounds seems to make sense . . . but there are loads of YT vids that shows water will 100% end up getting in there.



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this should work well. - "then bond twinwall polycarbonate strips on to fill the gaps/ridges. "


remembering to seal the front and sides and leave the back/rear open for ventilation and draining
 
I’m in the process of doing exactly this at the moment - Renogy 200w flexible panel but onto a flat Reimo pop top rather than one with ridges. I’ve used a clear PPF sized about 20cm longer and wider than the panel. My logic for this was to aid removing it if needed, greater surface area and in the unlikely event the leading edge did start lifting I would see it rather than it happening hidden right under the front of the panel.

The PPF is easy to apply with a slip solution made of 1L of water and 2ml of baby shampoo. Spray the clean roof and both sides of PPF, apply film, align it and squeegee out from the centre. Leave to bond for a day or two. Done.

I wouldn’t sand the film or panel, but just lightly dull the surface with a scouring pad then clean.

I’ve decided to use Sikaflex 554 after lots of research. I wanted to use VHB as it would be cleaner to work with but difficult to get a decent gap underneath without doubling up or adding a spacer of some kind. Sikaflex will allow me to easily get a 4mm gap to provide a degree of airflow and allow for expansion. 554 seemed the best compromise for strength, flexibility, longevity etc.

I’ve applied the PPF and cable gland and just waiting for a good day to stick the panel on. Hopefully tomorrow!

You can just see the rear edge of the PPF in the pic.

IMG_7057.jpeg
 
I’m in the process of doing exactly this at the moment - Renogy 200w flexible panel but onto a flat Reimo pop top rather than one with ridges. I’ve used a clear PPF sized about 20cm longer and wider than the panel. My logic for this was to aid removing it if needed, greater surface area and in the unlikely event the leading edge did start lifting I would see it rather than it happening hidden right under the front of the panel.

The PPF is easy to apply with a slip solution made of 1L of water and 2ml of baby shampoo. Spray the clean roof and both sides of PPF, apply film, align it and squeegee out from the centre. Leave to bond for a day or two. Done.

I wouldn’t sand the film or panel, but just lightly dull the surface with a scouring pad then clean.

I’ve decided to use Sikaflex 554 after lots of research. I wanted to use VHB as it would be cleaner to work with but difficult to get a decent gap underneath without doubling up or adding a spacer of some kind. Sikaflex will allow me to easily get a 4mm gap to provide a degree of airflow and allow for expansion. 554 seemed the best compromise for strength, flexibility, longevity etc.

I’ve applied the PPF and cable gland and just waiting for a good day to stick the panel on. Hopefully tomorrow!

You can just see the rear edge of the PPF in the pic.

View attachment 244608
Can I ask you how difficult it was to apply the PPF? I was going to have some black vinyl wrap fitted (I dont think clear wrap is a thing) a bit bigger than the panel. Now thinking about clear PPF. Maybe even getting the whole roof done depending on cost.

What were the advantages of Sikaflex 554 over others eg 521.
 
Can I ask you how difficult it was to apply the PPF? I was going to have some black vinyl wrap fitted (I dont think clear wrap is a thing) a bit bigger than the panel. Now thinking about clear PPF. Maybe even getting the whole roof done depending on cost.

What were the advantages of Sikaflex 554 over others eg 521.
It was really easy for a simple flat piece for under the panel, but would be much more challenging to do the whole pop top with the contours and corners etc. Use plenty of slip solution (details above) on both sides and don’t try to do it on a windy day or you will end up wearing it! You can get a 3M squeegee from Amazon/Ebay for a few quid.
 
It was really easy for a simple flat piece for under the panel, but would be much more challenging to do the whole pop top with the contours and corners etc. Use plenty of slip solution (details above) on both sides and don’t try to do it on a windy day or you will end up wearing it! You can get a 3M squeegee from Amazon/Ebay for a few quid.
Thanks, my roof has ridges, I can fully see me wearing it lol. Did you use3M PPF or does brand not matter?
Im wondering if to get the whole roof wrapped to protect the paint as I remember reading somewhere on here about people having to polish it to get the roof looking good as it doesn't last as long on fibreglass as on metals?
 
Thanks, my roof has ridges, I can fully see me wearing it lol. Did you use3M PPF or does brand not matter?
Im wondering if to get the whole roof wrapped to protect the paint as I remember reading somewhere on here about people having to polish it to get the roof looking good as it doesn't last as long on fibreglass as on metals?
I used one of eBay but 3M would be easier to use as mine had backing in both sides. 3M would be a bit more pliable too. Doing the ridges should be fine as long as they just run along the roof and there aren’t any complex corners.

Paint should be fine on the pop top, it’s the gel coats that fade and need to be looked after regularly. Just keep it clean and give it a wax occasionally.
 
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